roybatty666

Could be you were dropped in it by someone who is not to keen on you? Or it maybe that we have a DVLA member on here who has reported a few things rather than an active big brother infiltration?

As has been said the uninsured drivers aren't known for registering their cars so it is pointless Obviously in line with this they are updating the road tax system to enable me to sorn and unsorn my car instantly online so when I don't renew my insurance instantly I can be sorn for 4 days to comply with the law and also not pay tax for the 4 days I am in my garage... ...yeah right

I was thinking about this for mounting a rear winch on the rear crossmember, seems a neat soloution with minor modification, maybe a removable lower gaurd to keep the worst of the mud off and maybe a flap in the back to see the wire spooling etc

Speak to my women she is an expert on snatch blocks

If any wants to give me some mig lessons for extra cash in these tough times let me know, I am spending my meager free income as fast as I can to try and help the economy:p

How do you manage? If I lost my job I would be screwed the first month, and I am not poor by any stretch of the imagination. All the best chap

In a dusty environement such as yours I would steer well clear of the K&N filter as it really doesn't filter anything and will end up damaging your engine and destroying any performance you had. The ideal soloution is a 200tdi but I assume not practical as your not sittling slap bang in the center of Land Rover country

My Superwinch LP8500 has done me proud and has shown little sign of its "budget" nature, it hauled my mate off his beached axles (Wheels were totally off the floor) in his Disco without blinking an eye and it his pulled me out of axle buried mud many a time. It is pretty slow to say the least but for what I use it for and the price I am more than happy with that compromise An overlooked winch (and pretty new model) I will retire it to a rarely used rear at some point but only because I like upgrading but I have loads more other bits to buy first

there a few listed, I can't remember if the pivot one is bigger than the one the conects to the bottom linkage pin1 pin 2 That site has the clips etc, I am sure one of the part number Gurus will be along shortly to clear it up

I don't think that is a bad swap if the Defender is in good nick the longer you leave it the less your Disco will be worth, as an "investment" the sooner you move your collateral from the Disco to the Defender the better off you will be. The other consideration is why do you want a Defender? I have had both (and both modded) and the Defender is not in the same league comfort wise as the Disco and if your Disco is in very good nick and you intend to keep it/ the replacement defender then it maybe better to stick with the devil you know. I love my cold noisy Defender and as has been said many times on here most Defender owners drive them because of their character but if you don't have that love for the Defender and comfort is an issue stick with your car and just spend your cash on doing up that.

The high/low selector shaft detent plug spring and ball perhaps? the ball is resting in the locating grove in the selector shaft (number 130)

omg just realised I asked the most stupid question, of course it is on top it is the highest point lol

Following fitting my new clutch and gearbox 1st and 2nd are a pig to get into, it is tough to find them and then require a very firm push to get them to go in. All the other gears have loosened up a little over the last week. With the engine off they go in better and speed matching the engine going down the box also makes for an easier change with all other gears being fine. I adjusted the lever springs so 3rd and 4th just glide in and out with the stick at rest in the center I am thinking that I may need to rebleed the clutch as I feel it may not be releasing fully and dragging slightly making me fight the syncro which needs more force to match the resistance of the dragging clutch to allow the dog clutch to engage. The other reason I think this is because on my old e36 M3 the clutch hose used to heat up with the engine and expand causing the clutch to drag when fully depressed making 1st awful to get into and it felt very similar to this. The last thing I want to do is bend a selector fork or damage the syncro, and being able to pull away without losing second and looking like a learner would also be nice Does this sound like a likely cause or is ther something else I am missing? Oh and do all the slave cylinders have the bleed valve above the input line making getting a spanner on it impossible, as it seems my open bleed nipple with a socket screwdriver and push piston back in squirting fluid all over the floor and quickly shutting the bleed nipple method of bleeding following the piston creeping out was almost but not fully successful I assume I can loosen the union and just spin the slave over to have the valve at the bottom? Cheers chaps

the actual winder handles are different though as I found out one is held on by a screw and the other a sprung clip on the back of the arm

Without sounding preachy / condescending / sarcastic if you drive according to your vehicle's capabilities you should never rear-end anyone, I drive with pretty aggressive muds and leave a suitable braking distance and also go at a sensible speed around corners etc My first landy was a lifted disco on ATs and the reason I almost stacked that was the massive weight shift under emergency braking, soft high suspension and high C of G that made the rear go light and start to step out and want to go into a roll situation, this was caused be my underestimation of the weight and stopping distance that the vehicle required. As long as you allow for your mods be it tyres, suspension or even a heavily ladened 110 and don't drive it like a ford focus then you will be fine.

spigot bearing clutch fork if its not a v8 or the old one isn't reinforced

Hi and welcome As you have seen with a screwdriver (or even a thumb nail) you can get into a Defender so you are right in wanting to protect your car, visible mechanical deterrents and a maybe a hidden kill switch on the fuel solenoid is a good start, apart from helping insurance premiums alarms are pointless in stopping such a mechanical vehicle being stolen and no one seems to listen to car alarms anyway. I am just about to get a clutch claw and fit a removable steering boss to mine which makes for a good combo Tyre wise the BFGs are hard wearing and will last a long time although the ATs are pretty tame offroad and you will soon find after a trip or two that you wish you got something more aggressive and the spending will really start the BFG mid terrains are only a little less on road friendly (really not that bad and hardly any different to the ATs) but a marked improvement offroad You can slap on 33's without much issue but you start to get gearing issues, I currently run 31 x 10.5 sahara's but am soon to ditch them for 35-37s as they are a bit small for what I do. I am about 4.5 k in on spending on my car in 6 months so be prepared to come down with the bug good and proper You will want a megasquirt kit soon

I got my detroit and trutrac from Steve at CD built in 24 spline diffs it was £514 and £494 respectively they work awesomely and have yet to have issues using it in such a short wheelbase like people always go on about, no undue unlocking or clunking, yes it pushes a little around a corner (you automatically over steer a little to compensate) which you only feel when you lift off the power to change gear etc There are side slope issues with a locked rear but as I am no challenge monster the fit and forget nature of these diffs and lack of airlines and all that fit my needs just fine and outweigh their short comings. Give Steve a call he is a top bloke who will chat to you about your needs etc and see you right, I got a few other bits off him as well.

The UK weather does suck, it does bad versions of everything, When its hot it is too close and stormy, when its cold it is wet Still I had to scrap the inside of my window this morning so I little part of me velt like I was in 'vania with you

the lever has splines at the point it bolts on, just remove the gator remove the 17mm nut a n pur the lever back on a spline notch further around

the fact you can change gear with engine running and no grinding suggest there is no connection between the engine the gearbox so there is something up with the clutch. It could either have seized open (seized slave cylinder?) or the friction plate center could have been detached from the plate (but then you should still feel the clutch working), if it was a problem with the clutch hydraulics the clutch would still be engaged by default. You could pull the clutch slave off (two bolts) to see if the clutch engages with it removed, if you then get grinding when trying to change gear with the engine running you know that the slave is seized in the extended position, you can then replace the slave (10mm hose union) refit and bleed and you have an easy / cheap repair Otherwise a new clutch sounds like it is in order, cheap enough parts wise but a bit pricey on labour if you need to pay someone to do it as it takes a fair bit of time to do, although it is a job you can do yourself and there are some good guides in the tech archive showing you how http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4380 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6840

What happend here is all the veg oil prices shot up when fuel prices went up

I didn't spot that 36p a litre $2.2 a us gallon average

I have hands like a bare knuckle boxer following changing my clutch and gearbox last week The lesson I took away from doing mine is making sure everything lines up before trying to refit the gearbox, and also to allow more time than you think as mine took a good 2 days longer than I thought it would (although just a clutch change is easier)

Also at current fuel prices is there any financial gain at present? I know my mate has stopped running with it due to the price differential between the two being bugger all