roybatty666

It seems that this thread has served a very important purpose in getting people to check there arms and has hopefully helped to prevent a nasty accident or two.

and not all +2 shocks are +2 so be careful as you may find you lose downward travel and gain no real upward travel as your going to hit the bump stops at the same time as before I have +2 mounts as I have +5 dampers so I need the extra room to cope with the extra compressed size of the damper, I get no greater upward travel but beter drop and room for longer springs etc

You could allways sip your MTs to help them on the hardpack snow and ice

There is definitely a lot of truth in that, whilst hardly up to the standard of some of the beast on here when I go out with my mate in his standard Disco on ATs with a bit of thought and choice of line he can get most places I can, with my mud tyres and front and rear lockers I can just wander through without even thinking or spinning a wheel. On the same terrain he comes away with a big smile and a sense of achievement and I am left wishing for something more challenging I take pleasure in being reminded on regular basis about how capable a stock Landy (of any flavour)

What a beautiful country! I actually like the idea of more basic living, hopefully in a few years when the Mrs's trust fund comes through we will move to Canada and are looking at Yukon as it is pretty sparse and property in the middle of nowhere is dirt cheap, but like you the main utility services will be non existent

That's a Landrover feature, soon the bottoms of the doors will rust out and let all the water out for you

Ah cool I didn't realise it all stayed inside the box and you could just pull the shaft Although to be honest with it all bolted back together with the new gearbox you don't feel the play in the transfer box so I will just change the seal cheers chap

I had this and replaced all my bushes including the aframe, new rear diff and shafts and in the end it was my input gear spline interface that was causing it (I was changing all of that anyway) Does it do it when you push the clutch in when doing some engine braking (like when you are coming to a stop) or if you suddenly lift off the throttle? You can check this by taking off the PTO cover plate on the transfer box and jacking up a rear wheel and turn it back and fourth and you should see the end of the gear in the transferbox move slightly independant from the shaft it is sitting on The fact you have to really feed in the clutch every gearchange makes me think it is this, especially as you have an old lt77 box (I just changed mine out because of this)

Waxoiling the cat might be another fair excuse I live opposite the south coast so I get a sea breeze straight into my garage, I found that after the first 10 minutes I couldn't feel anything, as a rsult I got my clutch and gearbox change completed. The only problem was coming back in and warming up where the pain of all the missing btis of knuckle and bruises from dropping a transfer box on my legs started to be come very apparant Although I have to confess that I did want to do my rusty footwell at the same time along with fitting my breather kit and doing my front output flange seal so ther was some procrastinating going on. Oh and tidying up the garage after all the work kind of died a death half way through (I hate that bit and lack the disapline to return and clean my tools as I go along).

B&Q cheapest 110mm grinder (£15) I have lost count how often I have used this Mallet Cold chisels BREAKER BAR!!! violence in the form of percussion and cutting is often required with rusty land rovers I have a nice metric / imperial draper professional socket set that has seen me well Halfords pro breaker bar and ratchet spanners Oversized sockets and all the in between sizes to the normal socket sizes

Coming from performance cars where weight shedding was pretty pointless for most people on a 2+ ton Landy it seems even more ridiculous, especially as most of us carry ten tons of carp in the back and we wont mention what extra we carry on our waists If I was QT I would be recalling these asap as they are leaving themselves open to legal action if one gives way and someone gets hurt or worse

get a bit ot tarpaulin and some ducktape! It acts as a moister barrier but in a Land rover that seems a little laughable, I didn't bother whan I swapped doors

I had to do this today to adjust mine following my gearbox change coincidently (3 times ) the easiest thing to do is take off the rubber trim convering the gearbox tunnel, take off the gear nobs and slid off the rubber gator and pull out the foam bung arround the sticks , then unscrew the self tapping screws that hold the tunnel on (2 at the back, 6 around the bulkhead side and 2-3 each side into the floor and the whold tunnel will come off There is an adjuster on the hi - low shaft that comes undone sometimes that you can use to fine tune, although what I did was just undo the 10mm pinch bolt on the top clamp at the hi - low stick end and slid it of and advanced it one spline on the splined shaft Remember that you have the tunnel to go back on so you may find with it on the leaver hits the stick aperture (like I did yay) so adjust it till it changes gear then pop the tunnel back on without screwing it down to make sure it doesn't fowl things. Also I found holding the stick over in difflock made sure the complete splined shaft stuck out properly when pushing the hi-low clamp back on to the splined shaft. Once you get it apart it will all make sense

Looking at the exploded diagram of the box changing the shafts (mainly the front) look like a pig of a job

if your splines were going you would be getting a loud clonk that you would have known about before that I had a disco that blew a center diff on road but that went with a bang and then had no drive. pull the pto cover off the back of the t-box and see if the input gear is spinning and not just the shaft inside it, if thats fine it is something deeper in the t-box

did you have a loud clonk when taking up drive before you had the problem? If so you could have stripped the splines on your gearbox output shaft if they were heavily warn. edit ooooh beaten by milliseconds

Thats kind of what I did but in the other plane, but your way makes far more sense wow my seats look dirty

Cheers chap, dispite all the agro itr does feel very rewarding to finally drive along and feel the difference that you have made. A big thanks to everyong on the board for their advice and assistnace, it would have been far harder to do it without it. short of tipex on the crank pully and counting reeeeeealy fast is there any way to get it close or is it just best to go by sound and balance the vibration reduction and the engine running too fast

Well its all back together!! Took her for a shake down drive and what a difference, Ashcrofts box is so tight (oo er) and smooth it positively glides and the new clutch has far more bight than the old one. I also discovered what the jangly rattly noise that has been present since I bought the car is, there is a metal ring (mud shield?) on the front output flange of the t-box that has come away and jangles around the flange shaft, so I will sort that when I do the front flange seal. Problems: Much to Bushwacker12345's amusement after testing all the gears when I put the tunnel back on I can't get into Low range as the leave clonks the tunnel aperture, I need to move the collar back a spline or two (even though I lined up my scratch mark??) Also I must have put the main gear leaver in an odd position as it feels to far to the left so need to move that The biggest "issue" is that at idle in natural the car vibrates more than before, as soon as you give her some revs she is a smooth as butter, she was a bit vibrated before so with the new gearbox mounts compared to the old knackered ones I suppose this could account for it? Again as soon as your in gear and driving it is also silky smooth with the higher revs. How vibraty are other peoples defender at idle? is it worth increasing the engine idle a bit? what should the engine idle be?

Not wishing to goad someone trying to help me but......... If the diff is locked and there is play between the two flangers with gentle turning then it must be play in the ouput shafts / plant sun gear / flange splines etc as the diffshould be looked solid?

Les is that good he knows the perfect balance point of the joined boxes so he can balance on one 1" thick bit of wood with no straps! Haven't you seen his guide in the Tech archive, Witch craft I tell thee! I used a ratchet strap around the box and a barbell in the end and did a biceps curl to get her up where I wanted her then braced it on some axle stands and slid a transmission jack under it in the end. I actually enjoyed the appliance of logic and physics to get the job done

find a set of 7"? Not sure if that would give you a decent offset though? Do they have to be bang on 10", what tyres is he running?

seems a lot of effort if they are plain steelies. People want to move up from 8 to 10" (fnarr) so maybe post up bout a swap for someones 8"?

If you are old enough to be my pops at 30 then I feel I was on the money

can't find the same diagram for the power steering one but this shows rhe seals and circlip, not sure you can pull them out rasily with the shaft in place, maybe drill a small hole ahn screw in a self tapper and pull them out?