lo-fi

Get yourself a nice pipe cutter too - the ends have to be square to get a nice flare. You'll find it's actually quite an enjoyable job. Plain copper tube is lovely to work, copper nickel alloy is a little less free bending and slightly tougher to flare. Might be a good call before you start to establish whether you've got metric or imperial unions, so ordering up a single 10mm and 3/8 union to try in the holes is possibly wise. A 3/8 will fit into a 10mm hole, being 9.525mm, and just catch on the threads, but not well, so be wary of that one. One side of the master cylinder is probably bigger thread than the other to stop them getting mixed up. If memory serves, larger is 7/16, but still for the 3/16 pipe, where the normal ones are 3/8. I believe the PDWA valve also takes these. Again, assuming it's UNF. You'll want to look up what type of flare is appropriate for the unions you've got too. HTH

Oops. Looks like one of those "stanced" things: Some fake carbon held on with pop rivets and Halfords blind on credit ought to complete the look.

Just to be sure, did the correct oil go in after the low pressure warning? Too thick, particularly when cold, can cause this on an engine designed for thin oil. Was it a level or pressure warning that came on during the journey home?

Please post away, I think its fair to say we all love reading detailed, well documented builds. Great work, and good on you for going for it yourself!

Lol. Can't give up the carbs, huh? I don't blame you, they are delicious do have a certain charm. You ought to take the plunge and give MS a go on one of your projects, though. It's really quite fun to set up, even though it doesn't actually flash *DANGER TO MANIFOLD" warnings on the laptop screen when you're giving it some right foot and too much nitrous... Looking good.

It looks to me like they're relying on friction drive, and the flats are a sort of last resort/location. The bolt may have been tight, but was it tight enough? Is the advice in the manual to change the bolt every time its removed? If so, they're stretch bolts - "torque to yield" - and will not provide the full clamping force if reused. A possible scenario... A quick Google days 80Nm, then a further 90°, which is pretty typical of stretch bolts.

Not having it feel like a series does in 4wd on tarmac when turning tighter corners. I thought it was horrible and quickly converted to part time using the kit above. I guess it depends what you're happy with or using it for, though.

That's perfect, thank you!

Cheers Ian. It's a muddy, oily mess under there, so was hoping to narrow it down. Thanks for the confirmation, sounds like I'm looking for an external pump. I'll get digging!

No worries fella, we're all here for sharing knowledge! Interested to see how you get on. Spray a bit on some paper, it's kinda weird seeing paper that literally won't get wet. Good on boots too, the water just beads off.

Afternoon! I don't mess with modern LR stuff much, and steer clear of the devil's fuel at all costs, but.... in the course of helping a friend with a poorly TD5 D2 at the weekend, I made some interesting discoveries (pun intended) and thought I'd pass on the experience. Symptoms were a lack of power over ~3000 rpm in higher gears. Up to 3K in fourth pulled fine, then it would seem to stumble, back off and rev no more as if you'd hit the limiter. He had done some research and come to the conclusion it was the turbo control valve, which we swapped over to find it made no impact on the problem. My next port of call was to check if the turbo wastegate was jammed. I have a little vacuum/pressure tester that we hooked up to the wastegate actuator, pumped up to 2 bar and resulted in a total lack of movement. The pressure held, which means the diaphragm was intact, but the lever was jammed solid. A few little tappy-tap-taps and working some Plusgas and milk of magnesia into the WG bearing soon freed it up and it all started working correctly, pulling cleanly right through the rev range. It would have been easy to assume a fueling problem - blocked filter, broken sensor or suchlike - but I'm glad I didn't. I think what's going on is that under 3k, there's little need to open the wastegate, it makes boost, fuels appropriately and all is well. Above that, boost keeps building as the WG is jammed shut, so at some point the ECU - being unable to keep the boost down - pulls fuel resulting in the judder and lack of power. In lower gears, the overboost doesn't manifest for long enough to cause a problem, so nobody is the wiser. A bit counter intuitive, but makes sense when you realise it makes sense to protect the engine and turbo. A broken actuator diaphragm could probably manifest the same fault, I suspect. Entirely my take, of course, but maybe it'll help someone out. Milk of magnesia, in case you're wondering about it being an odd choice of lube, makes an excellent high temp anti seize compound, particularly on stainless. I left my mate with instructions to drive it like he stole it occasionally to keep the wastegate moving. HTH! Ian

Hello A mate of mine has a TD5 D2 which had a webasto unit fitted. I helped him remove it to make room for a clutch assist servo to help with a weak knee. I've got the heater, and was going to have a play about with it, but I think it's missing an external fuel pump which is still lurking in the vehicle somewhere. Does anyone know where it might be hiding please? Or if I'm mistaken and it's internal! Thanks all Ian

Try a coat of this or similar: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003U47QBY/ref=asc_df_B003U47QBY50077704/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22110&creativeASIN=B003U47QBY&linkCode=df0&hvadid=218000428312&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17697588320727737767&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045735&hvtargid=pla-360096686538 Its a nanotechnology coating that repels water. Condensation can't build up if it can't stick to the surface! I use it on goggles to stop them steaming up. Clever stuff.

A pile of rust with four wheels and a log book can fetch many hundreds these days! It doesn't sound that bad, but it depends on the level of rotten you're talking about I'd go out on a limb and offer £500 - you'd be surprised what the sight of a nice wadge of cash does to get things moving...

By the time I finally get my hands on one I'd hope that's all been put right Lots of new stuff coming up now, so might be something I'd rather buy by then. I definitely favour a designed-from-the-ground-up-to-be-electric something, though. The E Golf and suchlike smack of the tail (marketing department) wagging the dog (engineering) and I'd be loathed to support that kind of anti-innovation. I want new, exciting and shexshy if I'm going to buy my first ever "new" car If I was in the market for a utility vehicle, that Bollinger would definitely catch my attention over an electric Defender (much as I love them).

To charge a Tesla 85kWh from totally flat, it's about £6.50 at domestic rates. Less on economy 7. That's very few pennies for two hundred odd miles! As V8 pointed out, servicing costs are also much less. There's a bit of motor coolant that probably wants changing every few years and some transmission oil, which may well be a lubricated for life job. Possibly a few other bits I'm overlooking. No clutch to wear out, oil, filters, cat, cam belt, dpf, dmf..... Once you start looking at it, you realise just how low the component count is in the powertrain. The flip side is, the batteries don't last forever. But... I grilled the dealership about this, and they actually had some figures on battery degradation. 20k a year with occasional supercharging, expect to lose less than 1% of charge capacity a year. 10k for a fresh battery pack, but the batteries carry an eight year warranty. I have to admit, I was gobsmacked that answers were readily available. You normally end up with "you what?" when asking technical scruff like that these days. I'd call myself a petrol head (you've heard my V8, Mike ), but I'm excited.

I'm waiting for Tesla to start manufacturing the right hand drive Model 3 next year, so I guess I'm out of the closet too. Kinda. I did similar sums to V8 Freak, and figured that the mileage I do, I can have a lovely car instead of getting shafted for fuel and be no worse off. Rare I do more than 150 miles a day, so I'm perfectly happy with the 215 miles the base model gives, and some of my customers even have charging points already anyway. Also a supercharger a few miles up the road, and I've got very cheap overnight electric with economy 7, so I'm pretty much covered every which way. I really like the look of that off roader, though. Some great thought gone into that. Let's hope to see even more innovation that direction!

Thanks for the tip on the brake cleaner. That would be all too easily done

A good assembly lube helps too: https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/auxiliary-fluids/specialist-fluids/?522773492&0&cc5_871&gclid=CjwKCAiAqbvTBRAPEiwANEkyCMbawrHXOvU0m8W8Qx3LhNFsDE_F7S-pzLWD-RX_EK5jmUG9eIN5YBoCD2cQAvD_BwE Lots of sticktivity and film strength to provide protection long enough for oil pressure to build up. I also tend to do exactly as Western describes and run up on the starter.

Everyone I chatted with during the day seemed to be having a lovely time, Steve. People were just pottering about all over the place occasionally finding new and inventive ways to get stuck. The couple of times I got stuck myself, passers by were kind enough to offer help. Really relaxed, and really nice atmosphere in general. It was perfect for a newbie and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I'll be along again! Though I think my worst fears may have been realised, and a caged V8 "weekend toy" 88 may end up rising up from the heap of spare parts in my garage....

Fair point on the dual plane manifold, it's not the best. What about using an injection manifold and modifying the plenum cover to take a couple of side draughts of some kind?

Loved it, so much fun! Really good to meet you guys, and thanks for making us feel so welcome. Lovely pic too

I've never had a Holley myself, but found suggestions they don't like running at angles while I was looking at options for my build. Chatting with FridgeFreezer at the pay and play today (much fun on my first off road outing!), his experience with a Holley seemed to confirm that. I'd have thought a standard twin setup, Stromberg or SU, ought to support 190bhp with a little tinkering?

Thanks gents. I think I'm one of those unlucky people who have a worse reaction than most. A good whiff of galv vapour and I'll definitely have a sore throat or worse. It's those occasions where you can't get to the back of something to grind it off - that kinda thing that I've had trouble with in the past. I've ordered a 3M 7500 with various filters for vapour and particulates depending on what I'm doing. 2183 and 6075 were recommended on the 3M chart, so I'll see how I get on. Either way, a decent setup will be welcome for many jobs, so a worthy investment, I think. The stainless is an interesting one - I thought it was harmless, but during my digging around I found a paper or two suggesting it gives off chromium something-or-other, which didn't sound great in a less immediate fashion than zinc. I'll dig it out.

How about heading to Wakefield for some leafer goodness? I went and camped last year, it was a lovely weekend: http://www.leafersatpit.org.uk Leafers only if you're turning up to show off your pride and joy, but all welcome during the daytimes to mooch round and chit chat and admire a few ancient vehicles of varying shapes and sizes.