lo-fi

Awesome, another Soren project Love your work - so free thinking and original. Looking forward to updates as it progresses. Are you staying V8? /Ian

Interesting piecing together some history, isn't it. Sounds like yours has seen quite some stuff! You'll get on top of it all one day soon, and it's a nice feeling when you do

Oh, and I asked about freewheeling hubs because the railko is splash lubricated by the UJ turning on the halfshaft. If they're not turning, there's no lube getting splashed up the top. FWH usual come with destructions telling you to engage them once a month to keep that railko lubricated, which is often overlooked or neglected.

Yep, the railko is at the top - it's a roller bearing at the bottom. Decent diagram here: http://www.lrparts.net/land-rover-series-2a-3-swivel-pin-housing-ball-drive-shaft-railko-bush-bottom-bearing-half-shaft-stub-shaft.html I'm afraid there's no "quick fix"... If it's knackered, it's knackered. There's no way to tighten lateral play as it's a plain cylindrical. The adjustment shims set the axial preload on the tapered roller bearing at the bottom, which explains why the movement is at the top. The preload also sets up some resistance, which damps oscillations in the steering if set correctly, assuming the railko isn't worn radially as in your case. If they're so bad you're getting wheel wobble, I'd set about getting that sorted as soon as. Keep the faith! One day soon you'll get on top of all the neglect from previous owners and be able to enjoy it! Good luck

If I'm understanding correct, this sounds like a worn railco bearing. Yep, it's probably causing the wheel wobble! They're not too hard to do, just pressed into the top of the swivel. You have to swap a few shims under the top pin to get the preload right, but the shim kits are cheap, and it's quite a nice little job. Do you have freewheeling hubs by any chance?

How about Crown Lock?TM

Hi Richard Something not quite adding up here. What voltage are you measuring and how? Are you trying to measure AC or DC at the coil>collector joint? Both are bound to give "odd" readings on a standard multimeter, and absolute values won't necessarily be that helpful. I'm a bit confused about your circuits too, when you were explaining about swapping the wire connection... That 2n2222, is that as well as another transistor outside the case? Or were you trying another transistor instead of that? Oh, and one last thing... (someone will get the reference, I'm sure ) does the relay cut in and out as revs rise and fall slightly? Does the tacho continue to work above idle too? I think you're pretty close

Whatever you do, don't plug JS3 directly into a coil! You'll probably fry the processor, or at very least that output. The 2n2222a is there to do all the heavy lifting and should be more than up to the job unless you're using a whopping great coil. It's well chosen for a switching application and that circuit is fine, albeit lacking flyback protection, but we'll get to that later. The MS settings look fine, I think. I'd remove the mechanism from the relay as you did before, it may be moving into a position where it resonates and does funny things with the field.. I'm speculating there, but relays do odd things when asked to switch quickly. At a certain frequency they tend to "stick". It would be better to verify the electronic part is working with an LED and resistor, rather than listening for the relay. They're not designed to switch fast! I think what you're struggling with is getting a consistent voltage spike high enough to trigger that tacho - it seems to want quite a lot - not a configuration or electronic issue: I'd put money on that. Getting closer, though

OK, thanks Richard. So what Quagmire suggests above *should* work. There are sometimes snubbing caps and suchlike inside relays to stop the coil making voltage spikes as we're actually looking for it to do - it really depends on the relay. I have played with the RVC type a little bit, and actually developed a circuit to drive an old Smiths 4cyl unit I found to fit in the dash of my V8 S3. I've got loads of boards left over, and it's only about a quids worth of components that goes into a circuit. A last resort, but you're more than welcome to add to your options list. I'm pretty sure Quagmire is leading you in the right direction though, so I won't muddy the waters. Might be worth trying a few different relays as they'll all have different characteristics is all I'd add. Good luck

Ah, a lovely machine! Do you know much about the tacho? RVI or RVC? Apologies if I missed this info from the thread already. It'll need connecting and driving quite differently depending which type it is, so positively ID'ing it will help. This thread suggests you may have the RVI type: https://classicroverforum.net/index.php?threads/tachometer-question-again.38731 /Ian

What vehicle is it, Quattro, and was it injected originally? I assume this used to be a single coil RV8 setup the tachometer was fed from? If that's the case, Quagmire's setup looks most likely to work. The circuit you've posted would work for something modern that's ECU driven as stock. The Lotus Elise, for example, has the tacho line held up at 5v by a resistor in the tacho, and is expecting the ECU to ground it to send a signal, which your circuit posted above is perfect for. Older tacho circuits like I think you probably have work by detecting a voltage spike caused by the change in state of the coil primary, and are often set to trigger above a certain voltage for noise elimination. I'd try the relay coil using that circuit you've got - it'll probably work.

My S3 gets used for all sorts: Lugging stuff about, towing occasionally, going to and jobs around the livery yard.. And I just enjoy driving it since conversion from the devils fuel, so turning fuel into heat and glorious noise mostly Jordan's post made me chuckle too! Land Rover ownership: the brotherhood of bloody knuckles.

Snagger, your posts are usually interesting and informative, if a little blunt, but I have to admit you're being rather dogmatic here. Disks are better. Yeah, OK. Thousands of pounds better? Maybe not. Glad we can all at least agree on that one. Your size comparison doesn't really stand up, though (pun intended, let's lighten the mood). The 6 pot drums are a meager 1" larger diameter. That's a whole half inch extra turning moment. Hardly going to set wheels locking up left, right and center with there merest hint of hitting the pedal, is it? They are wider. Which on drums means more leading edge, so more braking effort for a given pedal pressure and a bit more area to distribute and dissipate heat. Great! You might not have to use both feet on that giant brake pedal... Now you can harp on about the theory as much as you like, but from someone that's actually running that setup, I can tell you it works very well. Did the move from 10" to 11" ruin the braking "feel" of the late 88? No. Frankly any of the non servo systems feel b***** awful anyway. For those of us not intent on turning a series into a defender, this is a useful option.

Glad to see the project is still progressing. Thought this might be of interest... http://seriouslyseries.createaforum.com/new-board-3/2-25-petrol-turbo/15/ Ian

Agreed, multi points are a pain on a daily driver. I'd build a dog guard into that... Or adapt a fume curtain around it and enjoy a cabin the heater can actually warm!

My 109 with the six cylinder setup and servo also stops on a dime, so my thoughts of disk conversion also disappeared a long time ago! Still a slight pain when they get wet, of course, but I guess it's part of the charm

Some really good explanation here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#CardanDefined And the article Tuko mentioned about Soren's wide angle mod: A tricky situation... Maybe it's worth calculating how much prop angle you can lose by pointing the diff nose up in line with the prop verses what disappears in length using a double cardan at the transfer end like some of the front setups (I forget which, maybe disco 2) do? The pictures suggest it might be quite effective.

Thanks , it's a fun project! Apologies for the subject being off topic, but the construction is definitely relevant. Laser cut 316 stainless steel: Drawings made in OnShape.com (free online parametric CAD) Build thread here if anyone is interested. And because it's relevant, here's my (highly questionable) manual circle cutting jig for the plasma. No pilot arc on my machine, and torch height control with a screw in the bottom of the wooden torch holder, If it didn't strike, a little tap enough to bring the torch into contact with the sheet did the trick Crude, but very, very effective and had some lovely cuts out of it. The wild invention:

The audi will have had an electronic control system with a solenoid in the system before the (pressure) actuator. My 1.9tdi certainly does. Don't forget that it uses the vanes for boost control, not just to improve the spool at low end with what essentially amounts to variable A/R (there is no waste gate), and I suspect a non linear relationship between boost and ideal vane position, or there would be little point in the control system. I've seen a few people claim to have done VNT conversions, but none with any technical detail beyond a scant "oh, slap on this actuator that happens to fit. Works great" that leaves you wondering if it really works that well, or even better than what was there originally.... Don't let me put you off, I think this would be a great project if done well (more than bolting it up and hoping for the best). Looks like that garret has a good shot at bolting up to the 200tdi manifold - certainly the same shape. Order up a gasket from each to check? Those audi turbos are plentiful and cheap. Controlling it to get the best out of it is the real challenge, though. Ian

Try LaserMaster.co.uk I've just ordered a bunch of parts in 316 stainless for my jet engine project from them. Very helpful, the price is very reasonable (I thought so, anyway), and they're happy to do one off orders with no tooling or set up cost. Will do folding too. Love your work Simon - thanks for open sourcing this. The 3D printer looks brilliant too. Cheers Ian

I think the diesel manifolds have a connection for the exhaust of the vacuum pump, which can of course be used as a takeoff for vacuum when in petrol configuration. Don't forget that the only reason you have a vacuum pump on a diesel is because there's no throttle plate, and hence no real manifold to speak of. I believe they're interchangeable with a little fettling. Fridge's suggestion of a plate that sits between the manifold and head to mount injectors in certainly has some major merits. I'll even offer to CAD one up for you! Laser or CNC isn't as expensive as you might think.. The only slight sticking point might be that stupid arrangement where the exhaust and inlet manifolds share bolts, but this can be overcome with a little thought. The plate will give you space to angle the injectors, and you can use the carb as a simple throttle butterfly with its fuel supply disconnected. The TPS will need a little thought if going this route, of course. Cheers Ian

Great stuff. How well it stays put depends how you fix it, though. The stuff I've used usually comes with some stainless cable ties, but I've found myself having to order extra - particularly if doing a manifold. For odd places, annoying curves and places you can't put a cable tie, I've often resorted to using stainless dressmaking pins to fix it. Seems to work well. Interesting what you're saying about mixture change, Missingsid. Which way did it change? I'm about to do this on my carb 3.9 and have the luxury of a standalone wideband O2 sensor, so it'll be interesting to compare.

Lol. Yep, 100mm might be a bit much Nice finds, Bowie! I forget the 200 manifold bolts up to older engines. Definitely a good option. Interested to see how this turns out.

Nice idea.. The 2.5 diesel inlet manifold looks the best option IMHO. Make up some little Ali spigots for the injectors to go in, which will seat nicely on top of the intake runners, get your mate to weld them on, then drill and finish machine to suit. You can do the fuel rail with some extrusion with holes drilled to suit your spacing. Add a fuel pressure regulator and you've got that part nailed. The little regulator from a Toyota 4AGE would be perfect here. It bolts on, and regulates the return. Simple! For the throttle plate, try something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262760495140 A little Ali plate made up with holes mount that to, then welded to the inlet of the manifold will get you sorted there. You could have it running in no time

Yep, sounds like a neat install. And do post some pics