Ozzy50

🤤DOH ! just checked the bottle and you are correct sir ! learnt summet every day

Do we have to refer to our Defenders (still prefer to call them 90,110 or 130 tbh, or even better ninety , one ten , one twenty seven ? ) as Defender Classics now ? Just asking for a friend

You posted whilst I was writing my essay 😂 dint go co2/argon mix , go pure argon either light or universal (you will understand when you buy it ) out of interest what are you having done on your wrist ? I’m currently seeing the specialist about my left wrist as I have a huge ganglion (spellcheck ?) that needs cutting out , that’s what a lifetime (so far) of machinery driving does for you !

I think most buyers of the current Land Rover range buy them because they’re trendy , not all but most

Wire is too thick , u want 0.8 mm for the 4mm angle iron and even better 0.6 for the thinner material although you would get away with using 0.8 on both and even using 0.6 on both although my advice is 0.8 ,that’s what’s causing the lack of penetration .The wire is too thick and simply building on top of the joint rather than melting it , all three materials, the two pieces and the wire need to melt and create a pool that you push along . I use 0.8 mm wire on 1mm material right up to 10mm material ( with a good V ground into the pieces I’m joining ) although I should be using 1mm wire ideally above 8mm material but constantly changing is a pita . Change your wire to 0.8 , you can leave the 1mm tips in the gun (less heat build up in the tip and less seized wire in the tips !) . You will have to readjust your wire speed and amps again (sorry) with the thinner wire . I’m guessing the 1 2 3 4 is amp adjustment so not a lot of adjustment there really , it’s a pretty basic mig set tbh (no offence) , my mig set was bought for me second hand by my dad 23 years ago (serious sentimental value) when he discovered I had learnt to weld at work , saved him a fortune on the farm !,is 200 amp and has nearly infinite adjustment on the Amps (I’m not trying to show off , honestly !) With the 0.8 wire : to weld the thin material you would need between 60 and 100 amps, material quality makes a massive difference btw the thicker material anywhere up to 150 amps joining thick to thin materials obviously somewhere in between wire speed you will just need to adjust until it feels right , too fast you should feel the wire pushing the gun back and get an excess build up of weld in the bead too slow and your weld bead will be too small and your wire will keep burning back to the tip (this is where using a larger tip helps ) Also what gas are you using ? I use argoshield universal (due to different material thicknesses and only one welder) Thing is with welding you can either do it or not ,I’m not trying to be big headed or clever but it’s just a fact , I learnt my welding working on hire plant where we had to fix everything and I can weld the thinnest of materials with the mig (because we had to !) , I always said give me enough wire and enough time and I could build a bridge (I’m genuinely not trying to be big headed ) The penetration is the most important thing , worry about it being pretty once you’ve mastered making it right . Kero posting and I will keep trying to help .

I know and I’m not telling people they can’t discuss it, BUT no amount of “discussion “ is going to change the type of vehicle the new Defender is , I’m simply stating that the only solution for those who ,like me, prefer the more utilitarian Land Rover is to buy or keep the old model .Thats what I’m doing . 84 pages of discussion show that there is a lot of emotion being invoked by the subject but it is what it is . Don't take my post as negative or confrontational, it’s not , this is the problem with the written word especially in social media , it’s all too easy to get the meaning wrong .

Yeah that’s not penetrating very well , what amp is your welder ? What wire thickness are you using , what amp have you got the welder turned up to ?

Thing is , if u don’t like the new one or can’t afford it , buy an old model , simple

That’s not the point , it’s when someone buys it and however far down the line , say for example they have a crash , doesn’t have to be their fault , and the ILLEGAL chassis alteration is found , what happens then ? Insurance don’t pay out , possible criminal charges , fines ? Rules like this are in place to try and prevent criminals from ripping people off and bodgers from killing people on the roads with unsafe vehicles. It has nothing to do with stupid rules !

I just hope the OP has taken everybody’s advice !

It’s still illegal , no one is saying the seller is trying to create a ringer , only he knows if that’s what he’s doing but the fact remains it is illegal to cut a chassis number off and replace it with another , the chassis number is the vehicle ID and is tied to the reg and the V5 . The seller needs to have the vehicle inspected and IF he has all the receipts and proof of the chassis AND the rest of the vehicle he MIGHT get away with , most likely will end up with a Q reg , might even lose it.

It’s the hypocrisy of it

Their parts pricing matches their vehicle pricing , Overpriced !

Remember that you are melting the two pieces together with the wire (so to speak ) so as you weld you should be able to watch the pool of weld that you are pushing along , a little zig zag or circular motion can help , Also how clean is the lense in your mask ? You would be amazed at the difference a new clean lense makes to your welding , as in you can see what your doing !

Did it take them four weeks to send out their letter claiming you owed them money ?

As everyone says , walk away , the work the owner has carried out is 100% illegal , you cannot weld an existing chassis number onto another second hand chassis ,there are plenty of honest motors out there so save yourself the hassle , say thanks but no thanks and walk !

I’ve been waiting for someone to mention that 🤣 Prices are , what’s the word 🤔 excessive !

Bargain 🤣

My opinion , for what it matters , I think the long wheelbase looks good , more pleasing on the eye than the short wheelbase(the whole 90,110,130 marketing thing I find odd but meh,whatever ) I really like the look of the blue one on the previous page BUT it does look just like a discovery except for a few minor details , I can’t see it being anything but a pleasure to drive both on road and off (light off road anyway ) and no doubt the cabin is a nice place to be . The off road adventure in the above article looks severe enough that I could have done it in my Kangoo trekka ! but I guess that’s all just marketing bs . So it looks nice , it’s expensive, I doubt I will ever own one and I’ve yet to see one on the road . I’m just meh about the whole thing really , it’s a shame there will be no more utility land rovers, guess we have to wait for the Ineos ,the LR(and Ineos) 4x4 forum 😉 in fact the green one even looks a bit like my Kangoo , same hideous green !

Great idea re removing the number plates , it has to be ANPR that’s picked it up but as you say what a pita !

Totally agree , I’m completely over it and don’t even bother looking at any pictures of it or reading any of the Land Rover sponsored blurb in the papers and online , I only look in this thread to read the amusing rants for and against 🤣

Brilliant 👍🏻👍🏻

I know it’s a bit late now but on Landy’s Range Rovers etc if I’m taking the engine out I always prefer to take out and install the engine and box as one unit, without the transfer box , they are a damn sight easier to bolt together on the floor of the workshop . Obviously if I’m just taking the box out (on a lift ) then that’s what I do . Might help you for next time.

Would love to go full EV with MUD but the tech just ain’t there yet , maybe my retirement present to myself (30 years probably!)

Now see here young man , we’ll have not if this modern talk around here .Next you’ll be wanting new fangled things like pneumatic tyres and electric headlights !