MECCANO

What about a different a/r ratio compressor housing on the same turbo core (keeping the original wheels) a smaller a/r will make it spool quicker but obviously impact top end, but overall make a smoother power band. If you can get one its just a case or swaping the housing over by undoing the big cirlcip or bolted clamp. Possibly re-drilling and tapping the waste gate bolts.

Personally I'd probably chuck a rear crank seal in for good measure. But i've had bad luck with them in the past!

Guys Does any one know the castor, camber and swival pin inclination of a disco 2 axle. I'm guessing its the same as a disco 1/RR/ Defender axle? I've hunted around the net, but found nothing definitive. Thanks in advance Meccano

I made it 9

Looking superb, keep it up

Added above^ My engine is 100mm forwards towards rad (I think the total extended length of the lt77 is 145mm over the standard series box), so my prop is shorter by 45mm.

You completely bin the series mounts and they bolt to the cross member. The passenger side uses the the standard lt77 mount ( flat plate ) at the box end. with the rubber bolted to that and the moutn shown above. if that doesnt make sense i have some pics of my mk1 mounts on my other pc. Found them: Mk1 version http://s2.photobucket.com/user/67fl12/media/HPIM0121.jpg.html'> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/67fl12/media/HPIM0364.jpg.html'> I actually have two sets of gearbox mounts, my mk1 version and some that came with the t16. Your welcome to them if they are any use. I think i might even have engine mounts to match the gearbox position for bolting in a lt77/tdi combo. http://s2.photobucket.com/user/67fl12/media/HPIM0176.jpg.html'>

Found some photos of the original fab work. I missed you previous question. No i poistioned mine based on the join between the gearbox bellhosuing and flywheel. consequently i ended up with a shorter rear prop (but used a standard 200tdi defender front prop) Passengers side mount: Drivers side upper: Excuse the cat! Drivers side lower:

I will try and get some pics of my gearbox mounts. They bolt onto the stock series location with no mods to the chassias. i did shape the ( removable on mine) cross member under the box, but if you grind down the web under the lt230 you don't need to. A Borge and warner looks like it would clear with no modification. In essence, you line up the gearbox rubber with the centre line of the crossmember mounts. Seats are still waiting on a second military roll bar, so i can securely mount the seat belts!

Cheers guys, thanks

Guys Had a OOps! with a length of 4x4" fence post and the passenger windscreen on the LWT. Now i have the delight of replacing the screen! Can any one recommend a sealant to use, preferable something i can pick up theis weekend, or should i just pick up some waterproof silicon for the local DIY place (Always seem to work on the side windows)and save soem penny's? Cheers in advance Chris

Only because the BW will prevent all the power being able to go to one wheel, transferring enough energy for it to break traction and cause it to hop around on the leaves.

Nick, when sticking the LT77 in the Lwt, it was the High/Low and Diff lock linkages that caused clearance issues with the tunnel. If they weren't there it would be a stock profile. I also had clearance issues with the lt230and floor between the tunnel and hand brake leaver If your using a BW transfer ( i would recommend it to reduce tramp) you wont have clearance issues with that anyway, but I found even sitting the lt230 as low as possible, the bolts for the diff lock selector housing barely cleared the floor with the box positioned 100mm forwards from the standard series position. on the BW i believe you still have a high low selector linkage?!?, if so you might want to look at a td5 disco manual box, they use a cable as apposed to a solid bar.

Thanks for your help Dan, appreciate it. Last question, have you had any experience of this funky setup on a centre push?: Back on topic, loving the fab work!

Lucky sod, i think i saw this to... but new i would never get it passed the misses.<br /><br />Is it heavy?<br /><br />I take it all the glass is stock landrover parts?

Cheers Dan, Just had a read through. You mentioned centre push and CDS doesnt tend to mix, What did you use pre JD bender, or do you still use them same spec?

Looks amazing Dan, cant wait for the next installment! You said you use to use centre push benders, whats your experience of them?

Superb keep up the hard work!

I think it was the "super size" but its states what od's it covers. Well i havent tested it yet, but the only limiting factor on mine is the dizzy cap. Converted to megasquirt and it should be imposssible to drown. The only thing you need to be aware of is mud ingress into the cam belt covers and bell housing ( as they arent water tight. ), the bellhousing i used could be with a bit of work. On my run to and from war and peace. Loaded with camping gear, Tools, and recovery gear ( it was very muddy) i got low to mid 30's. I was keeping pace with the traffic in the outside lane of the motorway.

Thanks Nick, It will be better once i get those seats in

Based on what i have seen on the rover forums. With the usual exhaust, and intercooler mods + abit more boost and a remap on the stock ecu you can achieve around 220bhp. The pistons are made of fudge, so upgrading these will alow you to boost higher, and with a t28 turbo, a tunable ecu and so high flowing injectors you should ebable to reach 240. To take it further you will need more agressive cams, conrods and alot of balancing but with a few other tweaks, some guys are runnign provable 270's. There are people who have takign it further, but they seem to be preforming witchcraft. Honiton Cheers i will look into the ecu. I'm actually using some of markos parts mixed with my own collection of mpi bits. Alot of his conversion parts suffered from his roll over and rustign away in boxes when it was removed. I Luckily i had the Mpi bits ( which my bro an i battled to remove from a knackered discovery - Cheers Bro!) so i could cherry pick. Cheers Nick I plan to make a surround to the grill, but the intercooler protrudes slightly from the front panel, and i quite like the asbo look! Your right about the exhausts. You have to be very careful when wearing shorts. I intend on making a couple of rock sliders that match the profile of the wheel arches ( so stick out further than the pipe). This should protect any one leaning against, or sliding out of the vehicle, aswell as make them more subtle. I did make them out of stainless to try and prolong their life, but from experience of Motor bikes, they still suffer. Chris

Got it in one. Basically its a bigger space to bring to pressure so takes longer. Ive tried to compensate by giving it a free flowing 2.5" exhaust to get the turbo spinning up quicker. Tanuki, similarly with the defender T16's i don't know why they weren't bigger. Cheers Steve

On idle it will do anything the 2.25 would and more. It will just pull its self along in 1st, 2nd, 3rd all day long. With the high ratio transfer i find myself sitting in too high a gears before the boost has come in (1500rpm). It will quite hapily maintain the speed limit up steep hills etc on the motorway before its has. For example With the lt77 in 5th and 1.2 ratio transfer, At speed limit its ticking over at 1200. basically making 5th into a fairly un-responsive (well more responsive than a 2.25) overdrive gear, so you just leave it in 4th most of the time. Having a large intercooler obviously doesnt help with this. but i'm hoping droping to a 1.4 should improve things

Fair enough, i've never driven the K-series so i have no comaprison. and i do love my T

I believe the K-series was the product of the T16. The K-series is an all Ali engine making it lighter, and in N/A form, theres little point to a cast block in the T16. However there is a Turbo K series 1.8 that was fitted to the Rover 75… that would drop straight into a freelander. However stick a turbo on it, and a cast block is great. The engines biggest weakness is the pistons. Upgrade these, a better turbo, increased boost and a remap and you can see considerable gains passed 250bhp. A lot of modified Rover 220’s are running reliably at low 300’s However the lwt is already enough of a handful when the turbo steps in and out. Especially in the snow and ice.