mpb

Heat shrink is good. Instead of loom tape for cables that run round the engine bay & under the chassis I use split conveluted truncking. Gives lots of mechanical protection.

My girlfriend's 110 clunks when you grip the wheel at half past 12. Will taking a couple of shims out get rid of the freeplay in the bearings or does it need stripping and rebuilding. Cheers

Just got a "C" cell Led tourch from Tesco's it's very bright & the best thng is it only cost £12. Im going back into get another couple. Also got mag-lites very good tourches & led Petzl head torches.

I read something on Difflock a few weeks back that they'd gone under. I tryed ringing them for parts a couple of weeks back & got "This number is no longer in service" or something a long those lines. Hopefully you paid on your Credit Card so you can getyour money back.

Cheers for the info guys. Hopefully it will be a straight forward swop of the lights. Many thanks.

A mate has a late 300 TDi Disco & he's not happy with the rear lights. It's only got the tail lights in the rear bumper & not in the body work. We would like to upgrade them so he has lights in the bumper & body work. Is it just a matter of getting a set of 200TDi Disco rear lights & plugging them in or do we need to modify the wiring. I take it we will need a heavy duty flasher relay to get all the indicators flashing without trailer tell-tail in the cab. Has anybody got the part number for this relay. Is the rear wiper, ecu controlled or relay controlled on this vehicle. If it's relay controlled where is it mounted please. With a new motor all the wiper does is one sweep of the back window then stops working. Any ideas please. Many thanks

Could of been. Mines a green 90 s/w with safari snorkel fitted runnng on silver modulars. Got the ball joint back together after much fighting with the spring, I couldn't compress it enough with a botte jack. We ended up modding the spring with a grinder. MOT now issued for another yea Cheers Martin

I have had to change my droparm ball joint twice in as many weeks. First time it flew together (cheap Craddocks one) Cup in, spring in plate in cir-clip in. A few days later noticed the steering felt a little funy, looked & found the cir-clip had come out & all the bits below the ball had come out. Replaced this one with a Uni-part one. Got it to go together after a fight trying to compress the spring, cir-clip in, while moving lock to lock it popped out again. Cleaned it all, up made sure the cir-clip seating was clean, re-assembled it. Had a fight for 3 hours trying to get it to go together. Got it together & tested it fine. Just got in & checked it the cir-clip, plate, spring & cup are missing. What am i doing wrong, I followed Les H's article on changing them. My MOT is booked for 8 am sat morning & i've got to work tomorrow, but should be able to gt a new joint on my travels. Many thanks

Formula 4x4 have gone bump. One of my mates was made redundant from there a couple of months back. They where brought out by a company from Yorkshire in the end.

If you pm me your email address, ill send you a copy of the workshop manual. The head gasket is prone to go on number 4 cylinder, but its not a hard job to change. A mate had the 2.4VM in a RR pulled like a train.

Cheers Chaps , ill get some ordered. Many thanks

I need to change my TRE's. I was going to get the Delphi ones. What do i need to order one right hand tread & two left hand treads or one left hand thread & two right hand threads. Vehicle is a 1996 Defender 90. UK spec. Many thanks

In my mind it will cause the chassis to rot quicker, as any moisture will get held against the chassis rails and not dry out. Martin

What makes that swingway carrier please, & can you get some more photos from different angles please. Cheers

A friend diagnosed the ABS fault on there "M" reg disco using the paper clip method. We then put the fault code into google & found the fault. Turned out to be one of the wheel sensors need replacing. Even told us which one.

Cheers for that, just got to work out how many switches I need now.

You need to work out the current coming out of the second fuse box, this will then give you the rating of the switch/ relay needed to supply it. That switch has only got a rating of about 10 amps.

Thats very nice, ive still got mine to do. Can you please tell me what make of switches you've used. Many thanks

Your right +12 volt fused - power feed to second fuse box - ACC earth - ground - to make the warning light work. Are you using the switch to power a relay or straight to the fuse box. Looking at the switch I would say its only suitable for low power/current applications. HTH

Try ebay, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PAIR-FORGED-JATE-RIN...1QQcmdZViewItem One of my mates had good service from this chap

There Anderson Connectors, the cable is crimped or solderd in to the metal crimp. These are then pushed into plastic housing. They come in different colours which signifys their current rating. Your local Auto Electrical Factor or Truck Parts Shop should stock them.

I dont think the dixonbate hitch in the first picture is a defender one. Possibly a disco or rr one. Sorry cant offer any help on theholes in the cross member.

Thankyou everyone for your advice. I changed the lift pump & fuel filter this morning. There seemed more power & more top end speed. I couldn't give it a full test as I had the trailer on the back, but it pulled well on the hills. When I get a free day, ill check the injection pump diaphragm. Thankyou once again.

Cheers Ian, Just had a look at the lift pump, this is looking like the suspect. Ive loosend the bleed screw on top of the filter and cranked it over. No fuel came out. I then worked the pump lever & I didnt get any fuel out. Ill go & get one in the morning & change it. Many thanks

I used a half round file to enlarge the holes when i fitted mine. For the extra fog & reversing light I used a hole saw. Stick a bit of paint on the bare metal when you've done it.