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missingsid

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Everything posted by missingsid

  1. I think you are focusing too much on who has the chassis, I had the same letter for one of my Series 1's. I had given a back body to a friend which still had a number plate on it, a couple of months later I got the letter. I guess that as they had part of the body they assumed that the rest was scrapped. At the time I figured it was someone hoping to sell the number?
  2. All you get to see without crawling underneath. Very Nice Job. Sorry to be negative but I did the same with my Series 1 V8 which is fine with a truck cab, but with the rag top on and rolled up at the back for summer all the exhaust fumes pour in the back as I drive without door tops. The negative preasure pulls it in.
  3. Try, http://www.protectionandperformance.co.uk/
  4. missingsid

    UJs

    Changed mine for the last MOT and fitted cheap, absolute b****** to fit. never had a problem with UJ's before. All the rollers kept falling out when putting in the opposite side, and very tight I had to use a press.
  5. " The Salisbury Wheel Company was founded in Jamestown, New York, in 1901 when C.W. Salisbury, a key-maker and mender of umbrellas, patented an automobile wheel, then pooled his life savings with two colleagues, Scott Penfield and E.D. Sherman, and started manufacture. Salisbury's first customer was the E.R. Thomas company, maker of the Thomas Flyer. In 1905, the company started manufacturing front axles. Two years later rear axles were added to its product line. Acquired by Spicer in 1919, Salisbury was moved to Toledo in 1929, closer to the center of the automotive industry. Salisbury axles became standard equipment in thousands of automotive vehicles. At the outbreak of World War II the light, Salisbury's rugged axles proved ideal for the Jeep. The Jeep proved so popular that in 1945 Salisbury had to build a new plant in Fort Wayne, Indiana. In 1970, the Salisbury Axle group was renamed the Spicer Axle Division. " does this help? found fron the net.
  6. Right I've ad me bath now and can be more usefull! 86" front and rear are the same as 88" rear 88" fronts are longer due to the extra 2" in the wheel base is in the front (to allow for a smelly oil burner thing). I think this is great idea to log these dimmensions, how are you going to make them easily findable? When ever I return to Forum I can never find stuff again! I've just come to a halt trying to change the bushes on the Panard rod on the Hybrid (used the tip on here for removing bushes works great cheers) Early V8, 6 bolt axle tubes and a 4 speed manual, so I figure they are early RR bushes. Pulled the old ones out and nope the new ones are too small a diameter!
  7. I could be wrong but last time i changed my Series 1 86" the front and rear were the same length! 86" and 88" certainly arent the same as one has an extra 2" in it.
  8. I agree this is a fantastic looking project. I bet it performs as well as it looks. Out of interest is it just the photo angle or does the higher rear cross member add down force to the rear wheels when wimching out backwards tending to dig them deeper?
  9. Hi I used to build FFR Land Rovers at Racal We were always warned that a soldered connection has a solid end to the multicore wire which stops the wire flexing properly. If too much solder flows down the wire then this inflexible end to the wire is outside of the connector and is not supported correctly, leading to fractured conductors due to vibration.
  10. My mate gives me grief due to my vehicles and claims he is a eco tourist. only trouble is he fly's around the world. who's doing the most damage!
  11. Cheers this has been very informative all the places around me claim full price retests.
  12. I know this is an old thread but just a note. This is not the best idea especialy if you want to reuse the track rod ends and all. Look at the stearing arm where the trackrod bolts in. on the very end of the arm is a flat (coil sprung only) undo the bold and rap the flat inline with the arm with a firm blow. the track rod should pop up if not hit a bit harder. once you get it right you will be able to do this with one hit. as you are not hitting the bolt no thread damage will occour. in the field i can remove straighten and refit a bent trackrod in a few mins.
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