Porny

You can just unplug the solenoid(s) to disable the EGR... however.... The problem with Td5 EGR valves (and 300tdi for that matter) is that over time the carbon (and sludge) build up prevents the valve from sealing correctly, which results in exhaust gas bleeding past all of the time. If the percentage of EGR gets too high (and is being passed all of the time) it can lead to serious problems - including rapid bore wear, reduced MPG, increased smoke and poor acceleration. Unless the EGR valve is 100% brand new, personally I wouldn't just disconnect it, and rely on the valve to seal. Going on from that... You could fit a blanking plate between the exhaust manifold and the stainless EGR pipe. This stops the EGR getting to inlet manifold, however... On a pre 2002 Td5, the intake isn't 'that' bad; however... the diameter does get reduced, which will lead to a restriction into the inlet manifold which is far from ideal. On a post 2002 Td5, just fitting a blank and not doing anything else is very bad!! A post 2002 EGR valve basically has a throttle blade... if you just blank the exhaust manifold, this valve will still activate when the ECU tells it to (via the two vacuum solenoids) and it will virtually block off the supply of clean air!! If you disconnect the solenoids, this valve will no longer operate, but it will still restrict air flow - especially as it doesn't sit flat when in a dormant state. Personally.... I'd just remove all of the EGR set up (including all the solenoids) regardless of age of Td5. It then is just one thing to go wrong, and will help improve the life of the engine and the sensors (esp. MAP). I would also look at the kits available before you buy them... 99% of the kits supply you a rubber bung, or tell you to use a screw or a rivet to blank the supply off you vacuum pipe. This is ok, but just remember if this bung perishes or falls out you loose servo assistance on your brakes!! My kit comes will a replacement vacuum pipe without the 'T' for the EGR solenoids If you want to be more flash... Pete Bell (Bell Auto Services) and myself are the only tuners that I know of who can disable the EGR in the mapping on the ECU regardless of model or specification. In reality though, this isn't needed, as although the ECU will log a fault to say the EGR is faulty - but it will not put the MIL on, so doesn't really matter. For a bit more info on EGR - http://irbdevelopments.com/EGRexplan.html Ian

Being perdantic, that isn't actually true A Td5 will run even with the wrong injector codes - it is not ideal and Land Rover say that you will have difficulty making the engine rev above 3000rpm. But it will run in the short term as a test. Ian

I've not played with Nancom that much (and when I have, I wasn't that impressed).... If you put the engine ECU into learn mode, and turned the igntion off... when it's turned back on it will learn the output code from the 10AS... So, the engine ECU will see the code that it expects to see outputed from the 10AS and the ECU will not be immobilsed. So far so good.... However... The part number on your 10AS does is end in 270 or 280?? Depending on it's settings (and which variant) it may be set to see the alarm fob - or a couple of other things. Is the red alarm light on in the speedo, or the red engine symbal with a lighting strike through it on the warning light cluster?? (by the sounds of it, then engine is still immobilsed) - have you also tried pressing the fuel stop/inertia switch on the engine side of the bulkhead Do a screen shot of what you see from the Nanocom. If you just want to get it running, I can send you a box of tricks that makes a Td5 immobilser off, so it will start and run regardless of what the 10AS is doing. Unless you want to pop over and collect one? Then we can sort the 10AS out at a later date For the record.... is doesn't matter what Td5 ECU you use, or what files you have on it .... any Td5 ECU will make a 'Td5' physically run - it is just not ideal!! (and some faults caused will be worse than others) Ian

No it's not I do one as well.... but only has 'engine' functions - i.e. fault codes, setting in to learn mode, swapping injector codes, live data etc etc. Can't do SLABS, ABS/TC, 10AS, swap fueling files etc etc. Is very fast - runs alot qicker than Nanocom and Rovacom. And is a lot smaller (no LCD screen)... is also waterproof (to a point) and heat resistant. Will do every thing you need - with regards to the engine. Price... is slightly more than Nanocom - but supply time is a lot quicker!!! Will be on my website as soon as I get chance. Ian

You don't normally need a new engine loom... Usually you can just replace the injector loom (part number AMR6103) which is about £40 from a main dealer (most dealers keep them in stock!!). The injector loom takes about 30 mins to change - it is just a case of unbolting the rocker cover and swapping the harness - making sure the rocker cover gasket is seated correctly when you replace the cover. Also - make sure all the plugs locate/latch correctly on the injectors!! Then you will need to clean the red plug (at the ECU end) with brake or electrical cleaner - this will have to be repeated for a number of weeks until it stays clean. It is also worth uncliping the plug from the crank sensor and giving this a clean, as I've found in the past oil can sit here and cause problems. Going back to problem number 1 - This sounds like you are possibly hitting the boost limit/overboosting. The most common cause of this is the actuator (or the waste gate that the actuator controls) is seized. You can check this by putting a set of molegrips (or similar) onto the actuator and try and make the wastegate open (so try to extend the actuator towards the bulkhead). There will be some resistance if working correctly... but if you can't move it at all, then it's seized. There are a couple of other possible causes - but really you need to check it plugged into some diagnostic kit, and check for faults. Where in the world are you?? - fill you location in Anywhere near the Midlands, or surrounding areas (or even Humberside/Lincoln way) I can help if need. Ian

Personnally.... get some dampers that are correct length. You can play around with lowered mounts, but you would be better off with matched dampers. However... if you did want a set of lowered turrets I have a set going spare (and I'm local). Brake lines - get some longer ones.... cheaperst place (and with the best service) is Llama 4x4 - who is on this forum - so try and get a forum discount - www.Llama4x4.co.uk Ian

Yes... But personnally I'd keep the Disco ones as a spare, and just reprogramme the ECU... 5 minutes to reprogramme the ECU. Or a few hours trying to get a stuck injector out!! Nope... still away AFAIK. Is a sweetner to keep the girlfriend happy - knew I was going to lose out when George metioned his aunt and uncle had some cottages and sent the web link!! Ian

If you go for the Defender engine... The base engine is the same.... But there are a few differences with the ancilleries, however these can be swapped over from you 'old' Discovery engine... included in this the waste gate modulator (as mentioned). ECU wise, you can just keep your existing ECU and just have the injector codes changed to suit the ones in the new engine. The only time you would have to play around (a bit) with ECU's is if the engine was a pre 2002. Depending where you are I can change injector codes etc etc if needed - although I've just noticed your in Ireland, so not that local - but I will actually be in Laytown/Bettystown, Southern Ireland later this month (not knowing Ireland at all, not sure how far away this is from you) Ian

Most likely causes.... The turbo wastegate modulator - only fitted to Td5 Discoverys (not Defenders) ... the little valve that is bolted to the side of the Td5/casting for the air con mount etc... and is piped into the turbo actuator. These aren't very expensive (about £15 I think).... and do have a habit of playing up. You could try bypassing it, and running the actuator as per a Defender. Oil in the injector loom - check the red plug at the ECU end (with the ignition off, unplug it and check for oil content) - about £40. Fuel Pump as mentioned. Seized wastegate on the turbo... although this is more likely to make the problem happen all the time, and not just occasionally. Turbo pressure sensor... I take as the MAP sensor - so the sensor on the inlet manifold... if this has been changed for a new one, then should be ok... but if not give it a clean. Ian

No Defenders have air bags.... that hump on the steeing wheel (fitted to Station Wagon and CSW specs) is just a pad. Ian

Hopefully very soon... At the moment we are still deciding on the final spec of the turbo, and doing lots of development and test work. Mapping wise... all I can say is that it is very special!! (the BMW owner on the way home the other day was very shocked!! ) This is not some 10 minute hash job - i.e. lets bolt this turbo on - off some other car - wind the boost up, dump loads a fuel in and sell it on!! The conversion will be to a very high standard and will not be avaliable to all testing has been completed (which will be soon). Ian

Not in the UK..... The current 2008 MOT system for Diesel (i.e. compression ignition) vehicles only requires an Opacity test, (i.e. smoke) and not an actual emissions test as per petrol (spark ignition engine). The EGR system (and the catalytic converter for that matter) does not actively affect smoke…. This differs from a diesel particulate filter (which is also exempt from testing at the current time). The only requirement is that the max smoke value for a turbo charged diesel is a mean (of the last 3 smoke tests) not exceeding 3.00m-1. For an initial 'fast pass' the smoke value must be below 1.50m-1. In simple terms.... the only reason a modern diesels have CATs and EGR (along with other things) is to enable a manufacturer to meet the current EU legislation (for example EU4/5), but once a vehicle model has been type approved, and sold to the customer... the customer is technically free to do what they like regarding emissions, as long as they meet the requirements of their country, which in the UK is just the MOT test. Ian

Andrew Morris makes stainless steel fuel tanks (01283 734 324 - also makes new Series bulkheads) - nice bloke, but can be a pain to get hold of!! - just leave him a message. Or... I can have tanks made in aluminium if you send me the original. Either method will work out at between £225 and £280 each. Ian

Just replying.... (you should have a pm) Can either supply a little box of tricks... or better still modify the ECU internally. Ian

Yes.... Apart from a few minor differences engines are identical.... so the turbo will fit all models. We are still working on price - this will be confirmed (at least a ball park) ASAP. Ian

There have been a few threads on Td5 turbo options in the past... and one thing that gets brought up quite often is the use of VNT (variable nozzle turbos) and the benefits they should bring. The down side is the need for a custom exhaust manifold, modified exhaust down pipe, modified oil pipes - and which turbo to use - making sure it's matched to the requirements and characteristics of the Td5 engine. Until now that is.... Here are a couple of pictures of the first prototype - from the outset, this turbo is designed for the Td5: So it bolts straight onto the standard exhaust manifold, uses a standard exhaust downpipe, standard air intake pipe work - literally a bolt on conversion. But more importantly... it is designed exclusively for the requirements and flow rates of the Td5 engine. It is not one off another vehicle modified to suit a Td5 - which may be far from ideal. More details will follow (as still early days), but initial indications are looking promising. Even on a standard map (on an otherwise standard Defender), the turbo makes quite a difference. It makes more boost from much lower RPM, and the speed at which it makes boost when on the go is nothing but amazing!!! However.... When remapped to make use of the increased boost pressures at lower RPM.... that's when the fun begins! Although still early days, and we have 'A LOT' more testing to do before the turbo and various 'map' options will be ready for sale.... all I can say is that it will be worth the wait!!! In the mean time the company who are making the turbo, Pete Bell and myself have quite a bit more work to do!!! Ian

Taken from my new website (only in draft form) - as done a bit of an explanation: What is the EGR and what does it do?? EGR or Exhaust Gas Recirculation. As its name suggests, the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system allows a controlled amount of spent exhaust gas back into the air intake of the engine. On both Td5 and 300Tdi this is controlled by the vehicle ECU (Tdi has a standalone ECU for the EGR). The purpose of recirculating a percentage of the exhaust gas is to reduce nitrous oxide emissions and combustion noise, recirculating a percentage of exhaust gas reduces the combustion temperature and slows down the fuel burn rate - which leads to reduced emissions, but also reduces performance. Although the EGR only works at certain part load conditions, removing it completely should make a difference in performance, and will possibly also lead to an improved mpg. Why should I remove it?? As mentioned above, removing the EGR system completely will often make a big difference to performance, and can lead to improved mpg - however that is only part of the story. When the EGR system works correctly, then it should only operate at part load, part throttle conditions - i.e. the times when you, as the driver, shouldn't notice its operation. But this isn't always the case. On both 300Tdi and Td5's it is very common for the solenoid valve to become clogged internally, which prevents it from sealing correctly. When this happens, performance and MPG will be substantially impaired... it is also very bad for the engine. If the percentage of EGR is too high, rapid engine wear (bore wear) will occur. The EGR gas will also soot/clog up the inlet manifold as shown in the pictures below. On Td5's this can cause problems with the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. Looking at it from another point of view, removing the EGR basically means there is one less thing to go wrong!! You should also remove the EGR if you regularly use high Sulpher diesel (in the UK, all diesel is low sulpher) Does it cause any problems at MOT time?? The current 2008 MOT system for Diesel (i.e. compression ignition) vehicles only requires an Opacity test, (i.e. smoke) and not an actual emissions test as per petrol (spark ignition engine). The EGR system (and the catalytic converter for that matter) does not actively affect smoke…. This differs from a diesel particulate filter (which is also exempt from testing at the current time). The only requirement is that the max smoke value for a turbo charged diesel is a mean (of the last 3 smoke tests) not exceeding 3.00m-1. For an initial 'fast pass' the smoke value must be below 1.50m-1. In simple terms.... the only reason a modern diesel have CATs and EGR (along with other things) is to enable a manufacturer to meet the current EU legislation (for example EU4/5), but once a vehicle model has been type approved, and sold to the customer... the customer is technically free to do what they like regarding emissions, as long as they meet the requirements of their country, which in the UK is just the MOT test. This can be confirmed by reading the MOT manual. P.s . if you want a 'proper' EGR removal kit Ian

Steve, I can only apologise for that... it didn't click that you were SteveG off here (one of those village idiot days) - as I didn't know your surname. I'd happily send some money back (though with paypal charges, probably not worth it) However... if you ever want a remap Ian

Yes.... (and especially as you sorted out a winch bumper for me in the past ) Ian

My mates done it... but can't remember what springs he used. But easy. His Disco is a bit different though as running 235/85/16's and a 2" lift. You also need to have the settings changed on the SLABS module (from air to coil)... which is easily done with the correct kit (I can help with this if needed) Ian

If you could find any more info that would be great.... Someone has also suggested MIG'ing the panels togther, so going to try that on some scrap bits - but it that doesn't work, looks like it will be out with the glue. Cheers Ian

Which one.... Removing the fuse or the method I posted earlier in this thread?? If the one above... then as it's take from the Land Rover workshop manual then I gather it works Ian

So you want an EGR removal kit for a pre 2002 Defender Td5 then?? Which would consist of a new straight through inlet pipe, an exhaust blanking plate, a bung for the air filter (not always fitted on a '99 Td5), all new gaskets where needed and a new vacuum to brake servo pipe. I personally do not like just blanking the outlet on the vacuum pipe (i.e. the ‘T’ one the pipe that goes from vacuum pump to the brake servo).... Every other kit that I know of on the market sends you a daft rubber plug - or even suggests the use of a rivet or a bolt - nice. I know of a couple people now who have had the rubber blanking plug perish.... which is OK... apart from the fact you suddenly lose the servo assistance to your brakes . Ian

Only post 2002 have the heat exchanger, was part of the upgrade to enable Td5 to meet EU3 emissions..... Pre 2002 simply have a pipe going from the exhaust manifold into the intake. You could just put a plate in between the stainless pipe and the exhaust manifold... but this is far from ideal 'especially' on post 2002 cars (something that all the people on Ebay just selling blanking plates fail to point out). Most common set-ups: People disconnect and unplug the solenoids and nothing else... this is ok as long as the EGR set-up is brand new.... an older one will be full of crud (technical term lol) and can fail to seat correctly - so still allowing spent exhaust gas back into the engine all of the time!! EGR's on Td5 do, quite often, stick partially open - allowing spent exhaust gas to pass back into the inlet all the of the time, not just when the ECU should allow it....this is bad for the engine, and can lead to rapid bore wear!! Some people just fit the blanking plate to the exhaust manifold.... This is principle is ok... however: On a pre 2002 car, you still have a partial blockage into the inlet manifold (i.e. the plunger and associated casting) - although not giving you 100bhp extra, it is a worth while mod to remove this (i.e. the EGR intake on the front of the inlet manifold) and fit a straight through inlet section. On post 2002 cars, doing this is a lot worse.... I will post a picture in a bit (although Steves' last picture also shows it) but a post 2002 Td5 has, what looks like, a throttle blade inside the intake section that bolts to the inlet manifold. If you simply blank the exhaust manifold, this blade will still operate (when demanded by the ECU) effectively blocking the intake into the inlet manifold.. If you disconnect the blade and plunger from the two ECU controlled solenoids, the blade stays at at angle (i.e. not horizontal) so you will always have a slight blockage... which again is not ideal from an air intake point of view - as you simply creating a pressure build up. Personally, I would remove the set-up completely.... it is un-needed for use on UK roads... EGR does not effect smoke/opacity thus will not effect MOT's (same as removing the cat from post 2002 Td5's) Removing the EGR set-up is also very important if you travel into areas (i.e. other countries) that use high suphler diesel.... use of high sulpher diesel, in a vehicle fitted with EGR will very quickly destroy the stainless pipe work... hence why RoW spec Td5's have no EGR fitted. Ian

My point exactly.... and in all honesty, I don't think the rolling road used was that accurate (esp. looking at the pictures) I have read (most of) that post... infact I did reply early on - but then got bored and decided I might just paint a wall in my house, and watch the paint dry instead. I think I might bring a new product out, that is basically a straw that goes from near the driver, into the air intake.... and when you need some extra power, you simply blow into the tube... should work as well. Ian