Porny

www.exactfabrication.co.uk or pm Chris via the forum (northernchris) Ian

2002 did see some improvements... most of the changes were to meet EU legislation - but there were other improvements... mainly the use of metal dowels in the head (instead of plastic - although you can 'upgrade' some but not all earlier Td5s with plastic dowels) and a few other bits (including a slightly different head) Blatent spam... but I could do this for you - can do a remap as per your requirements and should be cheaper than most! If you go for an R380 it saves any extra expense in getting custom bellhousings made... and it means everything is off the shelf. Am I correct in thinking you have a (long stick) LT95 at the moment?... if you used a Defender setup the gear lever would end up in roughly the right place... or even just use a Disco Td5 R380 and fit a later console. Do make quite a difference... but £££ - other option is a Disco transfer box, but you may overgear yourself depending on what size tyres your using... Depends which gearbox you use. If you got Disco then depening on engine location the Disco front one should fit... and in theory so should the rear - same wheelbase - but can't remember if PCD or bolt numbers are different at the prop end. And visa versa... if you run a Defender set up, the front one should be close... but rear will be a custom jobbie. Yes and no.... a dual mass flywheel when it works is fine. And the later Td5's don't seem to suffer as per early Td5's. But then a Rakeway solid affair isn't cheap AFAIK and I'm not sure how much of an improvement you will see. Ian

HFH... Just for you http://www.hornblasters.com/video.php?pic=40 have a look round on http://www.hornblasters.com Can see the newspapers know.... man in LR terrorises locals with his horn Ian

Is that a petrol or a diesel v8?? If it's a diesel, unless it's ECU controlled should be easy to get started Probably not the best thing to go into details on a public forum... but then at the same time is old technology - so a theif isn't going to learn anything new!! But in simple terms... a diesel needs fuel to run - and the fuel is usually controlled by an electric stop valve/solenoid Ian

If it's a Tdi just do the two lengths of wire under the bonnet trim lol... Then just remove it all together... from the one's I've seen in the past, will be nothing complicated lol!! Even the LR one only takes a few mins to bypass. Ian

Have a word will Julian at JR Fabrication - there work is spot on, and sure they could sort something out!! At one point, I'm sure David at Llama 4x4 was also offereing similar too... Ian

Shackleton - have just realised I haven't replied to your pm (will send you one shortly) Td5 conversion wise... it should be more than possible. I was helping someone in America do the same conversion - but into a 300Tdi Disco. Basically... electrical wise just set the engine up as Defedender spec Td5 - so use a modified Defender dashboard loom (well bits of), a defender spec ECU (though this may not actually matter as you will probably run the RR coolant sensor so that the dashboard still works), a Defender (or a Disco 300Tdi) 10AS alarm unit and a Discovery Td5 throttle. I could sort you all the connections you actually need to make the engine run, so you would just need to integrate it into the RR Dashboard/dashboard loom. You can get away with running a 10AS subsitute box - but really for normal use (i.e. not in a racer) you may as well run the 10AS unit.... actually thinking about it in RR (which doesn't have a 10AS unit as standard as per a 300Tdi Disco) a little black box would make more sense The actual engine can be either a Defender or a Disco spec one, as they are virtually identical. But you would need to run the Disco or Defeder spec R380 gearbox (or get rakeway - at vast expense no doubt - to make you a custom bellhousing). Cooling wise, I think you would be better off with the Defender spec radiator and intercooler - as the Defender intercooler is slightly narrower. TDV6.... The biggest problem with trying to use a TdV6 is the injectors. Nobody to my knowledge has developed an aftermarket ECU with correct drivers for Piezo electric injectors... and to run either a Disco or Jag ECU setup would be an absolute pain in the arse IMHO. Ian

Although i've got an electric winch, my winch bumper came from Southdown - http://www.southdown4x4.com Dave made it to my spec, and to suit the winch I've got. Sure he could do the same for your milemarker. Well pleased with the quality... and quick delivery considering it was made to order. Ian

Doesn't it need to be professionally fitted to gain Thatcham approval?? Either way, is no more effective than the standard LR alarm/immobilser on a 300 Tdi.... i.e. a length of wire under the bonnet (well two if you don't want to bump start it) and away you go.... regardess of what immobilser you've got acting on the ignition key. Ian

You can convert later axles to an earlier set-up... Can't be hard, even Scorpion have copied designed a kit. http://www.scorpionracing.co.uk/OFFROAD/ht.../inner/nuts.htm Under 4x4, wheels and tyres, and then wheel nuts and bearing kit. Ian

Don't know what everyone else thinks.... But IMO these look smart - and better than reversed Disco Steels. And Taken from Rover Hybrids Ian

wuss....

More likely to be a dead short after the fuse... i.e. where it runs to the spots, work lights etc etc. You could substitue the fuse that keeps blowing for a headlamp bulb (two lengths of wire and a headlamp bulb - just make sure you use the correct pins on the bulb) if you put the bulb in instead of the fuse and it lights then you have a direct short. Leave the bulb in the circuit (and where you can see it) and move all the additional wiring looking for faults. As soon as you move some wiring and the bulb goes out, you have found where the fault is. Ian

Is it this one per chance: Or this one (I have one of these - used to get them trade, but can't anymore except via special order) The cheapest place I have found is here - www.toolbay.biz (reduced section for LR owners too) or direct to the rivnut guns - http://www.toolbay.biz/categories.asp?cate...amp;parentid=38 Ian

Lewis Your missing one minor detail.... A TdV6 is a V6 - but only uses one turbo (well in LR applications is does) It uses a link pipe to link A to B Bank (I think the turbo's on B bank) - but the pipe goes straight into an exhaust inlet on the turbo exhaust housing - thus the exhaust housing has an addtional inlet (not just from the manifold it is directly bolted to - if that makes sense??) - but you could always blank one of the exhaust inlets off. What you really want to find it the turbo off a BMW Td6 powered RR - which is also the correct type of turbo Ian

Or just use a 1.5mm K Type thermocouple - slip it inside the pipe and do the jubilee clip up as normal. If you clamping a rubber or silicon pipe onto a solid tube (i.e. an intercooler outlet) it will still seal fine. Then you just need a multimeter which can read K-Type thermocouples (green plug). When you've finished easy to remove as no mods made.... This is the method we use at work (if not a permenent fixture) without a problem. Ian

I thought it was under the passenger seat??.... (well is on late spec ones) ..... From Picture: 1. Hydraulic booster unit. 2. Power unit - hydraulic pump. 3. Accumulator. 4. Electronic control unit (ECU), relays and fuses. 5. Rear sensors/exciter rings. 6. Front sensors/exciter rings. - ABS operation is controlled by ECU located under left hand front seat, and earthed to centre tunnel. Ian

Safemode?? Unless I'm very much mistaken if it's going into save mode, it will also log a fault on the engine ECU?? Is is safe mode, or is the engine hitting overboost and cutting the fuel? (this would also log a fault I think) Is the engine warning light (MIL) coming on?? BMW diesels do suffer from problems with the fuel quantity actuator, which can cause hesitation at the top end - but usually also cause the MIL to come on. Poor starting can also be related to this. Ian

This one: Have a read here: http://www.difflock.com/magazine/4x4_Gear/...eel_mount.shtml or if you speak French http://www.rrconcept.com/catalogue_liste.p...chage_liste=29# - some other nice stuff on there too. Ian

Glad you got it back at last.... The joys of Land Rover dealers - at least it all got sorted out in the end!! Ian

Apart from the possible faults that have been mentioned.... I know it's at the LR Dealer.... But what part number is your ECU?? Is it a late spec 'NNN' type - which should be fitted if your engine is a 2004 spec.... or a 'MSB' type which would have been fitted when your 90 was built?? There are numerous differences between the two engines, and ECU's! (EU2 spec, and EU3) - which can cause problems. Has the dealer checked the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor?? A common fault is that the CKP is too close to the flywheel or the drive plate... more noticeable when warm. If this is the case, it does bring up some funny faults: Normally.... • High-speed crank sync lost fault But other faults that may be logged are: • Noisy crank signal has been detected. • Injector faults. • Any injector faults may occur due to gaining and losing crankshaft synchronization. The fix is the fitment of a shim. A faulty EGR can also cause problems.... especially if it's stuck part open. Another fault is a loose relays, and or a loose power feed to the main fuse box. Some of the diagnosis does sound a bit random though... If the LR dealer is a proper LR Franchise Garage then they should have started off follwing the questions and answer guide on GTR (Global Technical Resource) - which is a system that all proper LR dealers will have access to - which covers most of the probable causes for Td5 Misfire.... I wonder if they have?? Ian

Sounds about right..... Closer than they sometimes get, at least it was only the fuel type he got wrong.... Would have been funny at the fuel pump when he put diesel in!! (the Cologne V6 in a LR3 is a petrol)... In saying that i doubt he did have the petrol V6, and just got confused with the TdV6 Diesel Ian

No.... was a BMW engine....

Rave.... that's a bit outdated, my info came off GTR

What's going on... Western has failed Taken from the LR Workshop manual FUEL SYSTEM - 300 Tdi Fuel lift pump type Mechanical with hand primer Fuel lift pump pressure 42 - 55 kpa at 1800 rpm Fuel filter Paper element in disposable canister In PSI it's between 6.53 and 7.977 Ian