Badger110

Cleaned up intake; exhaust; no obvious signs of roughness but certainly a difference in wear on the Intake which shows more

Not yet and to be honest, I wasn't planning on going that far. The engine runs fine other than the oil leak and a few limp mode issues under real heavy load, it's done well for 160k. The initial issue and reason for stripping it was the pressure in the rocker caused by blowback past the injector seals. Carbon deposits on the injector seats and in the rocker itself has shown this has been an ongoing problem, but one which I was aware of. The replacement cams from turners are £850 including a new carrier with followers (best to do at the same time ) however after spending an entire evening and morning pouring over pictures of cam wear and other's opinions, I'm not overly worried about the state of these. Yes they are worn, that Is evident, but not excessive enough to not keep it going for another month or 2 whilst I save up to have them replaced. Transit Mk7 aftermarket cams are identical and cheaper for the 2.4 Puma engine.

Followers there are signs of minute scores on some of these

Not a bad idea for this side as it does sit higher, the NS will sit level with the bottom of the rock slider due to the battery box. It would be fairly simple to achieve that too... you’ll have to show me a picture as I’m not sure what you mean

Im going to remove the cams tomorrow to get a better look I was finishing up and took the picture. it’s good to get the opinions here before I remove them tomorrow and maybe replace them

Opinions on the wear on these cams 160k mileage engine.

Having a read up on this, it's not necessary to remove the head it seems as the reaming/cleaning kits come with a plug to stop this happening. I've ordered one and we shall see I've also ordered the timing chain, front cover and associated bits n pieces to do this. It's now time to strip it all out

Not a bad call on the clips, it'll stop the bugger coming undone. It would be nice to come up with something that doesn't require a tool to release possibly? With regards to the rust proofing of the exterior of the engine ( ie the oil leak ) I removed the injectors and the rocker cover to come up with some interesting finds. The injector nearest the bulkhead was covered in carbon carp although the copper washer doesn't look too bad and neither do the other 3. Whipping out my camera I poked it down the injector bore to see how the seat looked and was presented with this; The rest are similar; I can order a tool and get the faces cleaned but of course there's the issue of carp falling into the cylinder. The bores are pretty filthy and whatever has been floating around in there has gotten everywhere inside the camshaft area. I think the only course of action from here is to whip off the camshaft housing and then the head and get it all done without worrying about contamination in the cylinders plus I can get a nosey at the state of the bores & pistons etc. It does mean the timing chain can be done at the same time.

A slightly better picture Next job is one that has been put off for sometime and that is to tackle the slight oil leak... After the trip last week it’s progressing well Im able to keep the truck off the road this week which gives me time to investigate and get some parts in as and when needed. I believe the entire issue is down to the injectors not seated/worn washers, if this is the case then I’ll be doing the timing chain as well

I have no idea, they came up on eBay for £45 each which is a steal as Rotapax ones are over £100 each. The seller ( a charity ) only had 4 available, so I had 2 and the others went 5 minutes later! The NS will be a little different as I have the battery tray to contend with

It does and although I was looking a similar idea for the Jerry cans, this works much better. unless you bend down and look underneath you’d never know they were there...

I’ve been looking at carrying extra fuel for future trips and having a twin jerrycan set up has been great in the past, it’s not a great way to carry fuel as it’s bulky. Rotapax do a slimline 5 gallon ( 20litre ) jobby which isn’t cheap so I dogged around until I found a similar idea much cheaper. The containers are 800mm x 300mm x 100mm and carry 20litres and come in an attractive green colour. The idea was to undersling them so I set to work to come up with an idea to mount them out of the way and keep the centre of gravity low. I made a simple frame from 30mm x 4mm steel after this I used threaded bar to make the clamping points and then clamped the Fuel containers using a aluminium plate to hole in place. this allows a low profile fuel container at 100mm or 4” to be mounted. I will look at a simpler way of locking it into position rather than nylon lock nuts, but this worked. I have used what we call cow mat which is a 18mm soft rubber mat cut In half to reduce vibration issues

Here’s the seals direct one fitted

2011 puma

I fitted one from seals direct, same size and cheaper https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/pdf/ETS58DR.pdf

I do enjoy these, thanks for posting

Smart motorways are a nightmare with those emergency bays..I got stuck in one for 25 minutes as I couldn't pull out with a caravan on the back and get upto speed quick enough to safely join the traffic. I heard they block the inside lane if someone is in the bay to allow you to leave but I must've been unlucky.

I completely agree and I'm usually one for doing so, but sometimes I need to know if something is possible and can I do it...so I end up with something rather swanky but then I sit back and go ' sod it ' and ditch it for the simple solution. I think it's the thrill of making/creating it in the first place...I'm like it at work when something needs building. I'll try the impossible, create the probable, but don't ask me to make more than one as the enthusiasm is lost after the first one!

I've spent the last 3 nights in the truck and it has been very pleasant. Keeping it warm without the Webasto going isn't really possible, even with all the insulation and curtains/shields at the windows, it's still cold, but what did I expect given it's still not fully finished inside and there are gaps at the base of the doors still on the NS. It is comfy though, the full width sofa is nice, the bed is great and the interior cupboards are doing their job. I'm still not happy with the plumbing...I made it too complicated for what It is and it's nice to have a sliding worktop with sink and tap, but I've shown myself that a bottle or small tank with a tap does just a good a job and is much less to go wrong. Carpet tiles are a god send as a mishap with a bottle of water caused a wet patch which was easily dried out by removing one tile and leaving it in the sun. The Webasto is noisy on the intake so I shall route that to draw from the outside...I have an idea of where it can go. It is properly cosy in here now and I'm pleased with what I've achieved with it so far...the colour draws attention which is to be expected! One issue on the drive up here is the entire truck is pulling to the left now, I can't see any major issues underneath, tyre pressures are spot on, but I did have a rack rod end replaced on last mot, so I'll do the other ones and set it back up. Brake callipers were replaced not long ago too. When I was investigating the brake bind issue, I have noticed the entire steering does clunk when turning at times and that does point to a track rod end giving up.

The force of your foot going down is enough to cut through, that's interesting. I saw one at the back of a workshop once and it had belts and pulleys attached to it and shook the ground when it was used, I figured this one was powered as well. What kind of thickness/material does it cut?

Having seen what is available in Japan, I can see something like this already existing !

I've never used one or even been close to one, so how does it work?

Theres nowt a sponge can't solve in those situations

and we see lots of pictures of those!

Don't forget pictures, you know we are suckers for pictures