Badger110

I did wonder where you was going to put it! Having never seen your workshop in it's entirety, I know you're limited with all the gear you keep adding How is the guillotine powered? Any TD5 auto box's by chance....

What are the plans for it?

Always a pleasure seeing what you do, good job

Covered your arse then, I’d personally just swap it, you have documents if they’re needed and you’re not hiding anything

This is beginning to feel like a mini Binky saga

This is why my annoying headunit gets turned off when I crank the engine and then takes another minute to fire up radio 4

In between hailstorms, high winds and sunshine I managed a pic before I decide on how to cover this lot received the V5 back from the DVLA with colour change, unfortunately ’ christonabikeitsgreen’ is not an official colour so it’s now registered as just green Also changed the seats from 5 to 2

I'd concur, those bolts look to be the standard pattern for a Nato hitch

It's an odd one...those who appreciate the older more refined classic RR will probably not be in the fan club and those that like the modification won't be in the original unmolested fan club. However, if you can do it, then crack on

It's too wet n windy for any pictures of the actuators I promised, so here's one of a Bulldog, because, well why the hell not

Good job, you should be proud of yourself

As I now have all 4 doors as I wanted, it is time to finish the interior of them To start with, I wanted to reinstall the central locking for the front doors, the 2nd row would prove to be a tad difficult and it's not a biggie if they aren't on the key fob. I took an old lock and split it open to see if I could create a similar set up to the rear door lock ( which has a central locking pin ) but after some hacking about, it wasn't happening without making a hash of it...ask me how I know The simplest idea was to attach a rod to the locking latch from the actuator. I'll post pics tomorrow. I replaced the amp and sub with an all in one flat unit, great bits of kit and now I was able to re instate the 3rd leisure battery. under the rear seat box is 3 leisure batteries ( 260Ah total ) A shunt with digital read out A MPPT Split charger A few pics and yes I know the Neg busbar is wonky, I did that to upset those with OCD The PSW inverter is housed under the drivers seat and is a bit overkill now. I bought it originally to power a domestic fridge, but it draws too much power so ditched it for a Dometic draw unit. The rear fuse board is attached to Batt 3 as well as the Arb compressor. The split charge is a simple Victron Cyrix with battery to battery join for the starting battery should I need it. The MPPT deals with the 180W panel on the roof. The battery monitor and shunt is a amazon special ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Monitor-Voltmeter-Motorhome-Lead-Acid/dp/B07CTKYFTG/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2XLS5C8V8KSBF&dchild=1&keywords=12v+battery+monitor+with+shunt&qid=1615325221&sprefix=12v+battery+monitor%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-7 ) does what it says on the tin. The neg is straight to the busbar and everything attaches to that. This is then straight to the Earth point by the battery box. It's all worked for the past year or so, I went from 3 batteries down to 2, then back to 3. Even during the winter and dull days the system doesn't drop too much if I leave the truck alone for a week, I think the worst was 12.7v. The batteries themselves are 2 Haze 85Ah Gel and a single ambulance 90Ah AGM. I've looked at LifePo batteries, but at the moment the system works so no real need to change it.

That’s good news 😁 Their lack of communication to you is what would make me not want to use them again though, It doesn’t take much for someone to pick up the phone or email to those who have ordered and explain a delay.

Dude, China isn't one big factory churning out the same stuff for everyone. Companies that use products or elements of products made in China etc, do so with guidelines, legality and quality control as it's their product being sold outside of China. What you have listed is a knock off produced by someone who has none of the above.

When I fitted the aux tank in the OS rear quarter, it protrudes slightly into the wheel arch area, nothing to worry about as when the wheel goes up it doesn't touch it, but I won't be fitting 37" beasties anytime soon! However looking at replacing the current XZL 7.5's, I wanted to work out what size in metric will not go beyond the same circumference as the current tyre. In metric, the size is 190/107/R16 for the XZL's which I worked out by measuring the tyre width ( 190mm ) the sidewall ( 200mm ) and it's a 16" rim. 255/85/16 has a sidewall size of 200mm and will provide a better fill to the arches without me worrying about it hitting the aux tank and are suited for the wolf rims.

Thats kind of you Stephen, however hold onto them for now as I bit the bullet and bought a set There are some great points made and weighing up the pros and cons, it's worth doing. I shall update the thread as I go along

That is a very good point, perhaps my ' they failed ' comment was a keyboard warrior moment on my behalf

I would hazard a guess and say they're trying to make it look a Dodge Ram or something similar. They failed.

Brilliant idea

I was going to say i liked the colour but I won’t because I don’t

Not sure the gold spare wheel is going to fit. However for that price, it's worth a punt if the bulkhead and chassis are decent.

Are you asking about this due to the cost of a 130/110 in the current climate?

‘Ere don’t go mentioning professional around me, people might get the wrong idea

A couple of threads down is some interesting reading regarding an air suspension set up in a 90

That will be one to watch