Badger110

An oil leak due to faulty injector seals turned into a complete top end rebuild with a reconditioned head, new Vacumn pump, coolant pump, clutch kit and now, possibly another new VCV if the feckin thing don't start behaving!

What you have there is a simple scenario in that he doesn't charge you any hire for you having it and you don't charge him storage for keeping it at your place

Thank you all for your knowledge in working out what I have and what it can do. Originally the caravan was going to sit on our land and be used as an extra living accommodation at certain times of the year and be connected to a 240v feed permanently so there was no need to worry about the 12v side of things. However, times have changed and we have now decided to use it as a touring caravan to be located around the country and Europe at certain times and become a base as we travel and I was looking to reinstate the original wiring set up. Looking at this unit, it is dated and although fit for the purpose of the caravan itself ( it's a ' dry ' caravan so has no set up for sinks, toilets, pumps etc ) I will need to look at a more modern version which will work with pumps, water heaters and radios as well as be able to charge the battery from the Truck when towing. I will put this to one side for now and look at a suitable set up and if anyone has any recommendations, I'll happily listen to them

I'm finding some success, the unit is a MiKO MK 240 It was fitted to Hobby, Tabbert & LMC caravans. I also found this, but it's not in English, but does give the diagram for the unit https://caravantrekker.nl/vragen/images/aansluitschema_12v_caravan.pdf

Ok, thank you all, the caravan is a Hobby 620 Prestige, circa 2003. I'll try to energise the relays when I get back, here's a picture of the complete unit but no labels with a model number on them except this one

I can match that picture

Totally off topic but there is some knowledge on here about 12v systems so maybe someone can help as I’m limited on elastictrickery. I’m trying to sort the electrics out on our German ( I can’t find anything online about it ) caravan and we have a distribution panel which brings a 240 & 12 v input, then distributes it via a 240v and 12v outlets. it looks to be a simple set up but the 12v side isn’t working on the outlets. ive tested the transformer and it’s outputting 13.7 & 14.2v but after these 2 objects there is no voltage so I’m assuming these are at fault. can anyone explain what they are and how I could get replacements? cheers

The gremlins have been at it again, this time the vacumn pump failed spectacularly this morning on the way to a new job, I carried on but had to call recovery on the way home as it was threatening to melt the ancillary belt

500710 https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/500710

I like that

I tend to find I create mess when I'm working, but that's because I'm usually single minded on the task at hand and ignore what's going on around me. However over the years I've learnt that when I'm in charge I'm forever telling others to tidy up after themselves as I see an order and therefore a clear path to getting something done...but I rarely practice what I preach If I'm struggling with something in the workshop or at work, I usually stop and clear up to clear my head. I'm sure there's some psychological reason for it

I've not seen one like it before, steering guards of all shapes n sizes, but never a bar. Live n learn

A small, but important, project this morning utilising one of my most important tools

What's the bar below the front bumper?

I replaced the steering bars as the TRE's were looking abit duff and the price of some decent ones wasn't much different than buying new bars as well in a kit. I coerced the lovely wife to swap the bars over whilst I was shoulders deep in the engine bay last week and after a test drive at the weekend I noticed I had half a turn lock on going right and 2 full spins going left...this proved interesting going round the roundabouts when out for a few test drives! I figured that when re lining up the front bar and that the steering drop arm had been centralised and not offset slightly which it's meant to be. Fortunately there is a groove in the back of the steering arm and a hole on the rear of the steering box to make this easier to do. Now before any of you drop your morning's copy of the Financial Times, raise an eyebrow, tut quietly, mumble the words ' spacers ' or consider revoking my membership to LR4x4, yes you will see pictures of spacers in the following photos as well as some homemade tracking helpers which allowed me to get an accurate measurement from the chassis. The CV's and all associated bits are being replaced/upgraded in the coming months and well, they make the truck look nice n balanced with the skinnier 7.50's, so I'm being a tad vain here I came back yesterday from a test drive to find the transfer box had dumped a load of oil over the box and chassis...it seems I had omitted the bolt just below the Hi/Low link assembly and it's not a blind hole but is actually open into the box so the oil being sloshed around was coming out the hole...which is a good idea if I'm honest as I genuinely had forgotten to put it in! I will get the front of the truck back in the workshop tomorrow as the oil leak from the front crankshaft seal Is bothering me and although it's a pain to have to strip the front off the truck again, I can't live with it dripping. Other than the few minor niggles including learning how to bleed a clutch, a small coolant leak, the coolant pump oil leak and the transfer box, she's running sweet. I'm going to sit down later and work out the costs for what was realistically a head remove, recondition and refit with replacing the parts that are recommended by LR ( headbolts, gaskets, cam cradle bolts, exhaust bolts as well as a few others ) Gratuitous pic of the new shocks, bars and turrets. Springs are original.

What you're describing sounds like limp mode which the puma will go into for any number of reasons and they won't necessarily show up on a scan. After turning the engine off and then on again, it resets itself if it's something simple like overheating. DPF's were fitted to the later 2.2 models, not the 2.4's

I just re did my head ( puma ) and ordered the important engine stuff ( gaskets & bolts ) from Turners as anything they sell is what they use on their engine rebuilds.

Finally cleared the coolant pump oil leak with a copious amount of gasket sealant and leaving it 24 hours to cure...I did find out that these engines hit about 5-7bar of oil pressure when first started which if there is any minute issue with a gasket etc is going to show . The front crankshaft seal is weeping still, even after I locked it off, but I’m not stripping it out just yet, I shall monitor it for abit to gauge the need to replace it ( plus I need the truck for work now ) I did a few other small jobs whilst going round tightening stuff up etc, one was to fit the news shocks Inalso bought some GL props some time ago bloody cheap so they went on too I was going to wait until I had done the diffs and driveshafts but i was getting fed up of falling over them in the workshop! Off for a nice drive later to test for leaks, squeals and bangs

Indeed they are but they are saying to keep checking back as some more might come available...no idea how I’m going to find out though! we’re off to the overlanding show in June...if anyone sees a bright green Landy then you’ll know it’s me 😁

Personal choice but I prefer the walls before the plaster. Good on you for doing it though

My best little project over the past week other than the engine rebuild and refit was this little beastie for the workshop... I took tatty large chair and nicked the castors off it and then took the back off another chair to make this ‘ whizz around the workshop ‘ stool which works brilliantly until you snag a rogue nut on the floor and come to a stop rather quickly

I’d like to give it a go, I’ll check the dates

You’d think so but it’s not cured the problem ☹️ I try and go for Elring or genuine but sometimes the kits that come aren’t either but I’m beginning to suspect that the actual unit may be at fault, however it’s an unusual place to get a good look at it. I’ve tried with a camerawork view the issue and after swapping out the gasket I figured I’d sorted it... I bought the pump from turners along with the other important engine stuff as they use what they sell on their builds so you hope it’s all good. I’ll take another look tomorrow and maybe introduce a little gasket sealant around the oil holes in the gasket to eliminate that area

No coolant leaks! Picked another coolant pump gasket, Elring this time and the difference is obvious

The pump shaft is oiled....unless I’ve got my fluids mixed up 😂