Badger110

There's the whole crux of it, it's what you like the look of. They're not the most economical, quiet or efficient means to get what you want, but you like them and the proof is that no fecker is gonna change your mind

I will be replacing the timing chain in the coming weeks, i may re install the cowling and fan then, It is unnerving watching the fan whizz round when checking on the engine bay but i did notice on the run out this evening that the temp guage was slightly lower than normal. For the past 3 years the gauge has sat horizontal, never moved regardless of what i'v been doing ( towing, hot days in town driving, high altitudes ), but it was a little lower this evening. The temp guage isn't a perfect way to work out the temperature of the engine so i'll run some live tests with the BAS remote tool to see what the engine is doing in different scenarios over the next week or so. It's an interesting bit of kit Pics coming soon...

Aux fuel tank in and boy was that a nightmare Intercooler in, new rad and guess what? It fired up first time with no issues....i must've done something wrong somewhere, that is unheard of! The plastic shround for the viscous fan fell apart on removal, it's not going back in, bloody thing's a pita. BAS intercooler is very nice, looks lovely but they didn't have black silicone hoses, so i bought blue but managed to grab a new black set from Def2 for £50 so they're going on early next week when i strip it all back again to do the timing chain. I'll post some pics later

I can't hear the fuel pump clicking? If there is no clicking/pulsing of the pump then there will be no fuel for ignition.

These guys did a great trip in their FC, the dad was on the maintenance of the truck daily which was needed. Kudos to them

Noisy feckers 101's It'll take a fair bit to quiet it down.

Fed some airlines in and fitted the valves this afternoon and then tested it for leaks. At the front i fitted the valves on the outriggers with some copex to keep them somewhat protected. At the rear arch i fitted them to the arch angle, again copex where exposed. Fed under the rear tub and up into the rear area sleeved in copex. I'll finish these off with stuffing glands to make it neat and then onto the compressor set up. I connected them all into pairs and then those 2 pairs into a single outlet. Connected this up to the compressor to check for leaks, one or two which were sorted and then tested with all 4 wheels connected for speed of inflation. From 20psi to 38 psi took 6 1/2 minutes which isn't too bad for the T Maxx ( twin ARB does it in just over 2 minutes ) I want to change the vavles as they're schraider valves and it's not a perfect fit, the ends of the whips wobble abit and can lose air. There are more secure fittings which i'll look into abit more.

I like this, good work Steve 👍

it's been a while but if i remember correctly, a 9.5mm drill bit to lock the injection pump in place. As for belts etc, as suggested above.

I did wonder why they're are tyre tracks across the roundabout near our local garage

I believe the advantage is in making the job of inflation and deflation easier and quicker, but the later isn't what i'm doing it for. Deflating is fairly quick with standard adjustable release caps, but inflating means pumping each tyre individually in a normal set up. It's not neccessary, most things aren't if you look at them objectively, but as i've learnt from having to deflate and inflate all my tyres after scenarios, this is a good system and saves some time and effort, especially at the scene. Afterwards you can individually apply pressures when on a nice level road, and even then, the system allows you to have the compressor hard fixed and lines used when and where needed. I want to permanently fix my compressor for the locker duties when they arrive and so i've been looking at systems that allow this as well as be able to use it for tyre duties without having to disconnect and carry the compressor around outside.

The outlet with the barb on it is the balancing outlet. The idea is you then ' tap ' into the main tank at the bottom as it's the only flat spot where it can be done. This throws up a few issues, one being you need to tap into a plastic tank and two, protecting it. Some have done it with no issues, some have done it and built a guard around it. The 3rd option is how i shall use it. It'll be a feed tank for one of my Webasto's ( the airtop ). It holds approximately 5 litres below the main outlet which is plenty to run an airtop for some time.

Another side line to the truck is an idea which was shown over on Def2 by 2010Blackdefender90, it's based on the Wifey air system which allows you to inflate and deflate all 4 tyres at once. 4 compressor points at 4 areas of the truck, plug in your whips from there to the tyres and it'll balance them based on whether you release a valve to deflate or engage the compressor to inflate. Individual tyres can be done by just using one whip to that particular tyre. Thinking ahead to the locker set up, i wanted to get this installed whilst the fuel tank was out and i was rummaging around under the truck. However i'm running a Tmaxx compressor and not an ARB, whether this is upto the job, we shall see. Black did a test with his twin ARB and got 20psi to 38psi in 2 minutes. I'm not bothered with speed of inflation etc, it just makes life a lot easier deflating/inflating tyres. I've still got a few bits to arrive ( US purchase ) by the end of December, in the meantime i can get the airlines installed under the truck to the outlets.

Just for you @Peaklander

I don't know what it is as i've not spoken with him since last week, but he's not a bull****ter, so i believe he had a way of doing it. I'll find out some details when i see him next

Another thought could be actuators. They can lift a fair whack of weight on their own and be wired to perform at the same time...

If you measure the amount of air in the tank now and then subtract that from the volume of an empty tank, you can work it out... I'll get my coat.....

Bloody good guess

Northstar campers have 4 wind up legs attached to their demountables which can be raised and lowered with a cordless drill and socket. grizzlynbear show it being lifted to drive their 130 out from under it, a similar thing could be done?

Call me thick but i can't find a suitable program to open these with Any tips?

Are we going to see your truck anytime soon? Enquiring minds and all that, some of the older folk here have PTSD reliving some of the moments out there

I have my van in the garage at the moment with a dificult starting issue, mainly low fuel pressure so it's not firing on turn over. mechanic thinks it may be a valve issue on cylinder 3 ( low compression ) and we talked about removing the head to get a good look. He told me he has a tool which he can use from the inlet side of the head to clean the valves to make sure they seat without removal. If such a thing exists, perhaps that might be a way without having to remove the head?

I found Mouse's demise whilst browsing some russian videos too;

I have no idea It looks professionally made ( although i haven't leak tested it yet! ) and it's kind of the right shape and size and will fit with some fettling and swearing, that i can promise you