Badger110

Feck me, i didnt think to look at Ebay! That'll do i thin, cheers Ian

I want to extend my bull bar from the front, along the wing and down to the rock slider. A bit like this i don’t have access to a tube bender, and a search online has come up with no results unless I submit a specific drawing which I wouldn’t know where to start, but also I’m not 100% sure how I’ll do it until I have the stuff in my hand. what I would like is this; to buy some generic radius bends, maybe a few 30 degrees and a couple of 90’s and some tube, then wing it from there once I have it in my hand. I’m getting more confident with welding and this could be a good sideline. My local fabrication shop is closed at the moment. Does anyone know if you can buy 40mm steel tube already bent to some standard angles, or does anyone have a machine to bend it for a cost? much appreciated

I had a similar situation when I built the frame around the hole in my roof in that I forgot to drill holes in 2 of the leg plates to bolt it down The curvature of the roof meant I couldn’t get a drill bit in there and the fact I welded it all in situ meant I couldn’t take it out. I bought these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/060220840/ and used the smallest one (8mm ) in a right angle drill. Took forever but I was cutting through 4mm steel if you don’t have a right angle drill, you can attachments for standard ones, you’ll just need to check the height of the body.

Live n learn

Well i enjoyed the pictures Straight up is an ideal for signal, with a rack but you may get an issue with ground plane or is that just CB aerials?

Good job

It’s also about extending all the cables, I’m sure there’s a generic ISO extension somewhere but I’ve a few more than just the usual speaker set up. I had the dash out to tidy up the wiring, sort the heater controls and a few bits of housekeeping. The fan has always been abit meh and since removing the air con the middle vents aren’t really needed, just the directional ones. The heater ducting must lose a fair bit of air before it gets the vents as it’s mostly pushed on with perishable foam making a seal. I replaced the foam at all the joints with aircon grade expanding foam strip and blocked off the centre vents with a small aluminium plate ( since cutting a great hole in the roof, there’s a fair bit of this around!) When the vents are selected it’ll only come out the directional vents now and not t middle two. This helps when I have the iPad on the dash. Fitting a double head unit caused some issues with the clock...as in it doesn’t fit as it fouls the unit. Not too much of an issue as I poked the hazard switch through the hole left by the clock. I’ll make a bezel for it I got rid of the rear door switches for the heater and wiper as I don’t have a rear view mirror anymore, driving vans & motorbikes most of my life I never use it anyway, it’s just wiring and weight not needed on the back door so that’ll be stripped soon for a cat flap and half door set up

It’s not all making roof’s fit and welding, sometimes the little bits are important. The heater control which allows you to control the flow of air to individual areas was broken. A small piece of plastic had snapped on the wheel in which the control knob uses to shut off windscreen de mist and allows you to select dash vents. You can see the missing piece here; I had a price of plastic which is from one of my track saw runners, so out with the dremel and trimmed it down Once I was happy with it, I used superglue & accelerator to fix it in place i trimmed off the excess plastic and used the dremel and a hot blade on the solder to shape the channel as the break was on a curve. Ive now added some super adhesive/ hardener to ‘ shore ‘ up the back of the piece i added. That’s it for now, the piece is cooking in the sun to go hard and then I’ll fit it all back in a give it a test

Starting at the front with regards to the interior, my first thought was to mount the head unit above the windscreen. its out the way and looks ok, however the wiring will be a pain as it’ll have all sorts going to it including 2 cameras, 4 speakers and relative power cables. Routing all that up the A pillar isn’t in my list of things that ‘ feel me with a warm feeling ‘. Im happy to punt the speakers up higher so I’ve began partitioning it off. I cut down the original head lining to go inside the visor part sticking over the bonnet and with the short bit I cut off, fixed that back onto the top of the windscreen with the sun visors ( might be a little overkill now ) once I had the shape I wanted it was time to cover them. I don’t profess to being any good at this sort of thing, but needs must. the partitions are made from ply and covered in 6 layers of thin foam and then material. All the foam and material was sourced from charity shops, so it’s a mixed bag, but I do love to recycle stuff This is one of the panels done as well as the roof of the cab; I did toy with making a hatch to the left of the speaker to utilise the space behind, but it would affect the speaker and I wouldn’t gain a huge amount of storage. I will, however fit a small cargo net to throw things in on that panel, as well as the one on the drivers side. The black caps are screw caps and the reason for this is all panels must be able to be removed. Down the line I don’t want to find an issue with something behind a panel and not be able to get to it. We are going to be travelling to various different continents and climates, so being able to identify and fix a problem down the line is first on my mind with regards to the interior. All the fixings for the roof are accessible at a future date should I need to get to them. Also it makes wiring easier if I add something down the line.

I’ve scrapped the idea for a few reasons. The weight of a bench seat as is. The need to use It as a bed with the rear bench seat is no longer needed as I’m making a bunk scenario in the rear now

I don’t, the actual brand screwfix we’re supplying are called ‘ select ‘ website is here; https://diamondledlighting.co.uk/catalogueproducts/trinity-tri-colour/ They state tricolour but screwfix doesn’t. i just fitted 11 of these to a 12m x 8m garage I’m just finishing for my neighbour, plenty of light.

The load area isn't huge on those track barrows and you'll probably get 1 bail of hay/straw in it. It's a lot of hassle to carry one bail about. You can grab a 4 wheeled garden cart which will be cheaper and carry upto 3 bails and is pretty easy to pull about on 4 wheels if you have a yard and you're not poo picking a wet muddy field If it must be motorised, i have seen those with a small honda engine as well as battery powered ones. Before we got our tractor we used an old MT ride on mower with a 13hp engine and no cutting deck. It would pull 3 dumpy bags of hay on an old trailer tent trailer base up a hill! It was beast until it rusted away. They are cheap as chips to come by as people get rid of them when the cutting decks rot out.

No, they’re advertised as such but have a switch inside which allows you to select the different temperature I fitted dozens of these

Screw fix do a standard led tube with 3 colour settings in the unit from very warm to bright white https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-single-4ft-led-batten-white-22w-2100lm/590cc They’re adjustable within the unit

Got to put wheels on it...

Not a bad idea Bowie, I’ve got surplus aluminium sheet from the hole in the roof to make the table top. For securing it into a locked position I’d need some sort of locking thingymajig..

Can someone explain is simple terms how the interior lights are wired up in the defender (puma)? i have 3 wires going to the light purple/brown - perm live purple/white - switched live black - earth. what’s confusing me is how they react when I lock the truck. when the truck is unlocked and doors shut, the purple/white is showing 12v when I open the door, this drops to 0v and the interior light comes on when I shut the door and the light fades, the volts rise to 12v again So a reduction in volts causes the light to come on, and an increase causes it to go off. the permanent live doesn’t change no matter what I do

I realised this had skipped my radar, I’m interested too!

Good job sir 👍

I now have an obsolete aluminium roof rack as nothing is going up top. i figures to put it to good use for future purposes and if I’m honest, it does look quite cool with I’ve done... original; I cut it down and replaced some of the rusted bolts, a few licks of paint and voila Its not going to have huge loads on it but it’ll come in handy for shovels n stuff and it’s recycling old items

Are those front hinge sections bolted through to plates on the underside? What you have there is what i want to do, however have the entire seat pivoting backwards and not forwards.

A little bit more information; I read this; to mean that the middle seat seat belt anchorage is ok as long as the entire structure of the seat is secured and able to withstand the forward motion of a human and the weight of the seat. I'd need to bulk up the anchorage points for the entire seat assembly or look for suitable independant seat belt points on the chassis/bodywork.

Requiered Standard for Seat Strength is as follows There is more, but it relates to headrests.

Good point. As it is technically a 3 seater bench seat, the current middle lap belt is fully mounted to the seat frame and can't be independant. Well it could, but that's more work as well. We did a dry run with it today, positioning it and working out where it gets us for being part of the bed which is the entire point of it. It is a little shorter in width than the standard 2 seats postion and it means the passenger is sat slightly to the right ( probably 100mm ) of the normal position. I also have to consider the weight element. As the seat is designed to carry it's passengers and keep them strapped to itself in case of an accident, it's quite a hefty piece of equipment. The tubing is about 40mm and it must weigh 60kgs or thereabouts and that's before i've added more metal to fabricate the frame to use the exisiting seat bolts holes in the seat box. When you consider a defender seat weighs bugger all, i'm very aware of the extra weight in the overall build of the camper conversion. I'll spend a few days mulling it over and reading up on the IVA manual and see what i come up with

I’ve looked on the gov website but can’t find anything with reference to swapping out the front seats for a bench seat. I want to fit a fold down bench seat in place of the front seats to be part of the rear bed area. I have a donor seat to play with from a Bongo. This back rest section folds flat both forward and backwards by unlocking it and folding it down which is what I want. On top of that, I’d like to be able to hinge the entire seat backwards so I can access the battery and fuse/relay box I’ll need to fabricate a hinge and locking mechanism for the seat base, are there specific rules for mounting points for front seats? Or does anyone know of a specific bench style seat that already has this entire set up built in? If it’s a logistical nightmare the I’ll just move the battery and fuse/relay and go with my original idea of extra fuel tanks under the seats, but I like the challenge of the seat idea at the moment.