Badger110

That's awful

Thank you, that’s good to know . you’re right that it’s never really going to need to have both at the same time, but it’s knowledge stored on how it works 👍

Right it’s time to mount the compressor and I’m coming up with some questions someone will know answer to hopefully. The compressor is connected to the manifold which has 2 outlets for the solenoids to control the lockers and a spare outlet for tyre inflating duties. compressor to manifold then to inflation distribution. my question is, do the lockers have to be under constant pressure to work? Does the solenoid open, pressure the locker and shut keeping it ‘ locked ‘ or does it open allowing the compressor to pressure and keep the pressure? I ask because if I activate the locker with the solenoid, then use the tyre inflation system, will this cause the locker to ‘ unlock’ ?

I used a pet medicine syringe to pull through the fuel to the dosing pump, from there the pump usually sorts it out to the unit itself.

That looks like fun...what a blast to be involved with a company like that I bet you hate going to work every day

A very well thought out build and great ideas, top job sir 👍 I considered underfloor heating in the camper build but the floor space doesn't justify the amount of plumbing and whether it would be that effective over an airtop. Have you considered a composting toilet? We're getting an Airhead one, pricey but so worth it without the hassle of smell involved and they're pretty compact too. The really intriging part is what do you do in the film industry exactly? I very nearly went into film prop building, but ended up designing and building restaurants, nighclubs, pubs and strip clubs instead

I thought the same.

Ah a better picture, yup those will be fine. Mesh over the holes though...nothing worse than finding a wasp's nest in your airgap. 120mm will give you a 30mm gap, but with a 120mm you're well over the required thickness so don't worry about the smaller gap. To make life easier for you, grab some roofing baten ( 25mm x 18mm ) and screw it along the joist butted up against the roof. When you place the celotex in between the joists the baten will stop you hitting the roof and ensuring you have at least a 25mm gap, this picture might show it a tad better ignore the 41mm core drill hole...i'd look at several 25mm holes along the roof line but just make sure there is a flow of air over the top of the celotex and you won't go wrong 👍

You'll need to allow some airflow into the roof space. On the walls where they meet the roofing material ( highlighted here in red ) You can either core drill ( 41mm x 2 should do ) or break out some block work on both walls either side and in between each set of joists, this will allow air to flow through above the celotex and consequencently reduce condensation. You'll need to cover these on the outside as it looks like your eaves are non existant...you have no protection of rain coming through the holes and making it worse with moisture! Are you getting full sheets? If not, baten off the joists to a required length and screw the celotex onto that...it will reduce your headheight with the thickness of the celotex. Finish the celotex however you want, i'd steer clear of plasterboard though, heavy and prone to moisture in a single skin concrete shed....6mm ply is cheaper and paints up just fine 👍

Is i pitched or a flat roof? Can you get some pictures taken of the inside construction and where it meets the walls too A warm roof is where the insulation is sandwiched between the roof joist and the top layer like this Yours will be a standard roof material fixed to the joists, once insulated, it will then become a cold construction roof as the joists act as a bridge between the room and the roof material...the insualtion is fitted between the joists. What you want to do is fairly straight forward but not sticking anything to the underside of the roof material. The key is airflow, as you stated, to stop condensation build up. We would place an air gap between the celotex and the roof material...celotex can be cut snug to fit inbetween the joists to achieve this. You will have no need for vapour barrier in a cold roof construction If you can get some pictures it would help 👍

It fits to the catalytic converter on the puma down pipe.

Also you can get different thickness's of silicone hose as well as coatings to allow the use with oil or fuel. I bought a set for the intercooler off ebay, 5 ply and cost £50. The bend just before the EGR valve on the puma is a little tight and the silicone began to kink at this point. A set from BAS came along and i snapped them up and the difference is like chalk n cheese. The BAS pipes are 5 ply also but much thicker and heavier with no kink at the same point. You might be buying 4 or 5 ply silicone hose, but the ply layers can be different thickness's, it's ' you get what you pay for ' scenario. The silicone hose's are no larger or stronger than the rubber ones if i'm honest, except my rubber ones were full of carp from the pre intall of the oil capture and egr blank off so i wanted to replace them. Genuine rubber pipes aren't cheap.

I've removed mine and the heatshield is surplus at the moment, would it suit your needs? I took some pictures

That's a bugger, i just found one in the workshop you could've had for the postage I bought it for an artic circle trip to keep the engine temps up whilst driving

For trips out i carry a mavic zoom as it's small and portable and is a great all rounder. Definately worth doing on a bike, we did the Cairngorns on our Triumphs a few years ago and the roads are superb for biking

She interviewed my missus about her mini once upon a time back on topic, i would've put the unimog above the g wagen as a bench mark

Some people have had failures of the chain at 110k, some are on 250k plus and not changed it. I'm on 160k and it's being done now along with rocker gaskets, injection seals, crankshaft seal and a new clutch. It'll be like new i tell thee

Nice idea, but the link brings you back to this thread

If i stop injuring myself, i might get mine finished before you go, happy to tag along as a spare pair of hands to hold things, transport stuff and make brews

Steady there, a letter change and we could've had an entirely different response.. Top job Stephen, always good to see what you come up with 👍

Proper job

That's pretty inpressive when you see he designed and built the rear demountable section himself. It's not my cup of tea, but kudos on a job well done

I was wondering last week where you'd got to on this, it's coming together nicely. Love that colour

You just have to remember where you are should you want a pee in the middle of the night

We had something like this on one of our bases in Germany, it was used to load aircraft. I've always had an idea to convert the rear into a home, then rock up at your chosen spot and up you go...nothing beats a brew in the morning above the tree line