David Sparkes

"My seat's wet!" is the sound I hear, but I agree, it raises a smile, especially the tone of voice it's delivered in. She sounds as if she isn't certain whether the cause is the stream itself, or a personal accident!! David

"The 1M and 2M was my reference to the amount that the rope moves and therefor the ratio, 1:2. Not too clear, sorry. Chris" I think those numbers should either be reversed, or if you keep the 1m, the 2m should be 1/2M. The reading shown on the load cell would need to be doubled, as the other half of the doubled rope is taking half the strain. Later comments: So instead of arranging a contest between two 'immovable' objects, we are back to a movable but adjustable load? At the Dorset Steam rally I attended a few years back they had, for the first time, a demonstration of Traction engine power. This was as much to get the sound of a steam enginge pulling strongly as anything else. They certainly had difficulty getting attendees to volunteer. They used a natural slope, and pulled a very ratty low loader up it. Adjusting the load seemed to be by mal-adjusting the brakes on the four rear wheels. I don't recall what they had under the front end of the trailer. This arrangement worked for them. Considering ground conditions etc, then a quarry might be good. If a working one can be persuaded to co-operate, then the winch vehicle could be coupled either to a very large rock, or a massive dump truck (which would make some entertaining photos on their own). They may also have a low loader holed up somewhere (site use only sort of thing) which could have the brakes tweaked and hauled around the place. If it's a low loader used for dump trucks you could probably put a Land Rover or two across the trailer to add effect, and load, to stop the trailer wheels just skidding. With a stone floor you are not worried about tearing the ground surface to pieces, which is surely what would happen if you used grass. You now have a load that can be changed for different 'classes' of winch, but remains constant during a pull, so you can measure metres per second for 30 seconds, whatever. 2nd thought. With a wheeled trailer of the size mentioned, a slight slope, and an adjustable load (crosswise SWB Landies) you wouldn't need the braked wheels bit, so the ground damage would be to limited to repeated travel only. Given firm ground any marks would disappear in a week or so. You are all Southern Belles aren't you, so no point in even thinking of Derbyshire / Peak District Quarries? HTH

"I guess you can't really rig a "rolling load" to see how far a winch can pull the load which would also be interesting " I think you CAN rig a 'rolling road', and you do really need a spectacle of something moving, more than just a dial needle. Have you heard of 'Tractor pulling'? They seem to use a load hitched to the back of the tractor. This load gets 'heavier' (requires more pull) the further the tractor travels down the course. I don't know how it's done, or what the course surface is, but I assume some assiduous Googling will find routes to answers. HTH

"took ages to find that info on the RAVE cd's " Yes. The D1 was fairly easy, once the correct year was selected, as the mirror has a seperate entry in the Index. The DII however ... Electrical Diagrams, not Electrical Library. Then Interior Lamps in the Index And Lo, the Interior Mirror. Marvellous. Just testing, of course.

On the DII the Green/White is the 12v feed from the Ignition, thus matches the White in the D1. On the DII the Green/Brown is the 12v feed from the gearbox reverse switch, thus 12v when reverse is selected. I haven't checked, but assume the ignition has to be on, but the engine can be off (not running), to enable the 12v supply to the gearbox switch. Thus I expect the Green/Red to attach to the Grey wire in your D1. Just check that Grey wire is 12v live when reverse is selected. As a matter of interest, the wiring diagram I have for a '96 D1 shows the wire colours as : Black (Eth), Light Green / Orange (12v feed via the Ignition switch), and Green / Brown, 12v feed from the reverse switch. You will realise from all this that the Auto dimming is a function of the optics within the mirror. The electrical bit is to 'restore' good vision when you select reverse. HTH. I see Western and myself have got similar results, so you should be able to sort it one way or the other.

Tut Tut. Drivers side indeed. Huh. :-) LH footwell, get on your back and get your head well in, past the hinge of the glove box lid, and towards the transmission tunnel. It's a white socket in a black panel. There is no protective cover. As it's obviously your first time, take a torch and inspect the pins closely for corrosion. If you do see any I would be suspicious of the state of the wiring behind the panel. A bit of corrosion on these pins / wires doesn't half bugger up any diagnostics you are trying to run. Good luck

Recall Notice A/D211 dated 05/05/00 MODEL/DERIVATIVE AFFECTED RANGE: DEFENDER Td5 Manual gearbox derivatives XA145775 to YA181042 DEFENDER Td5 CKD Manual gearbox derivatives XF829247 to XF833265 DISCOVERY Series II Manual gearbox derivatives XA200000 to YA244647 XA900000 to XA907209 DISCOVERY Series II CKD Manual gearbox derivatives XA920000 to XJ920147 Engine number range 10P00001a to 10P38890A Build date range September 1998 to June 1999 PROBLEM: DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL Œ MATERIAL SPECIFICATION CAUSE: High energy inputs into the clutch and flywheel system may lead to structural failure of the flywheel assembly. The energy inputs may cause the flywheel to exhibit surface cracks, which under certain conditions could propagate, resulting in loss of drive due to the clutch slipping. In extreme conditions the flywheel could fragment resulting in extensive damage to the clutch bell housing. ACTION: To protect the long term integrity of the flywheel assembly Land Rover are implementing recall action on all Discovery and Defender Td5 manual models within the affected VIN range. All vehicles within the affected VIN range shown above will require the flywheel assembly to be replaced. Where necessary, after visual inspection, replacement of associated clutch parts may be required if consequential wear is noted. All vehicles currently held in stock, demonstrators and showroom vehicles must have the flywheel replaced prior to the vehicle being despatched to a customer. PROCEDURE DURING THE FLYWHEEL REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE, ASSOCIATED CLUTCH COMPONENTS MUST BE INSPECTED TO DETERMINE IF EXCESSIVE WEAR EXISTS. THE WORKSHOP MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS DESCRIBE THE WEAR CHARCATERISTICS THAT EACH OF THE COMPONENTS SHOULD BE EXAMINED FOR, AS SOME OF THESE COMPONENTS MAY NOT REQUIRE REPLACEMENT. It must be noted that zero mileage vehicles ie showroom/stock and CKD vehicles will only require the flywheel and fixings to be replaced. THE FOLLOWING CARE POINTS MUST BE OBSERVED IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE WORKSHOP MANUAL REPAIR PROCEDURE. •If the flywheel face exhibits any surface cracks the clutch assembly must be replaced. •Flywheel bolts MUST be tightened to 40Nm (+) 90 degrees. •Remove the existing grease from the release bearing guide tube and replace with a THIN coating of Molibdium Disulphide grease. •Clean the fulcrum arm and nylon insert within the clutch release mechanism, remove any old grease and inspect for wear as described in the workshop manual, additionally if the fulcrum insert is loose or deformed in any way the fulcrum assembly MUST be replaced. If the original components are being replaced or renewed apply a small amount of Molibdium Disulphide grease to both components prior to re-asembly. •If a new clutch plate is being fitted ensure that the plate is free to travel along the constant pinion spline prior to fitment. •Clutch cover fixings MUST be tightened to 22 to 28 Nm. •Check the crankshaft spigot for scoring and uneven wear characteristics, if necessary replace the spigot bearing. •Road test the vehicle and check for clutch functionality. •Apply a white paint mark identification to the two bonnet lock fixings. (You know the 'pin' on the bonnet that goes into a circular catch plate? Well it's the bolts holding the circular catch plate that should have the white paint). •Endorse the service record book. PARTS INFORMATION: PSD103470K Flywheel 1 off ERR6581 Flywheel bolts 8 off FTC4630K Clutch cover 1 off FTC4631K Clutch driven plate 1 off NH108041L Clutch cover fixings 6 off 576137 Release arm 1 off 571161 Insert release arm 1 off FTC5200K Clutch release bearing 1 off 8566L Crankshaft spigot 1 off ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Normal warranty policies and procedures apply, it should be noted that this particular campaign will be subject to warranty audit. The ‚K™ suffix parts CANNOT be used to repair or replace parts on a vehicle outside of the campaign VIN range, the usage of these parts will be rigorously monitored against VIN and total volume of cars repaired. Note that no mention is made of clutch judder being an identifying feature, although clutch slip 'might' fall within the 'high input' parameter mentioned. Cheers.

I read that as wrong. Try Blue = 1 & 6 Orange = 2 & 3 Purple = 4 & 7 Green = 5 & 8 imspanners, I think that's 25/100 you got with your version :-) I'm not sure it helps, unless the wiring to the coil pack is laid out in such a manner as to associate a particular wire colour to a particular pair of outlets. Les, sucking eggs again, but do you appreciate this lump works on the wasted spack principle? This means that you can swap lead 1 with lead 6 and it won't make a blind bit of difference. Similarly swap 2 & 3 ... etc. Can match the output pairs to the input wire colours? I wouldn't expect any misconnection to cause a problem, unless the engine was run for a long time with a permanent miss, when the cats would complain about swallowing neat petrol. That's all for the moment. EDIT Back again I struck lucky at Rangerovers.net: "The cylinder number for each lead and coil in the pack is clearly marked on the coil pack mounting bracket. Walter put white paint in each of the stamped numbers to make reading them easier after disconnecting its leads. " Go to http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/coil4.html for the full article on troubleshooting a faulty coil installation. D

Is there such a thing as an ex-Police DSE? I'm only asking if you've seen any, I haven't been looking. All I'd say about your aspirations, is please don't be a complete plonker and fit coil springs. If that is in your mind you might as well go Landcruiser, or some other antediluvian 'thing'. I mean, there is no point in starting with a 'different' vehicle, then making it the 'same old stuff' underneath, now is there? Generally though, I'd be interested to see how your project develops. As you say, it's about time, providing the essence of the 38A isn't lost in the process. That would be the 'new ground' in terms of modification design. Cheers

Domestic wheelie bin, or Commercial wheelie bin for really big stuff. A packet of washing powder, and a pressure washer. Work out your own soak, wash, rinse cycle(s). That's for the initial clean of crud that would otherwise come off on your hands, although a good soak in washing powder solution is a good deep clean as well. The 'Jenolite bath' approach is also excellent, especially for steel parts, but you will have a substantial financial investment tied up in a container big enough to drown a cylinder head in.

"I have discovered coolant leaking out of the heater" Are you ABSOLUTELY sure the coolant is from inside the heater? Remember the O rings are over the RH drivers footwell, and they are the common source of wet drivers carpet. They can be done without taking the fascia out, but that's one of those jobs I haven't had to tackle. I think it's a hidden advantage of a diesel, but I believe some diesel owners have had to do them, so I've just been lucky.

"I get the windows, sunroof, warning repeatedly, and I can't figure out how to stop it. " With the ignition on, wind a window all the way open, wait a second with the motor stalled, then release the button. Now wind the window all the way up, wait a second with the motor stalled, then release the button. It's important you go from full closed to full open without stopping, and that the ECU sees the stalled motor, but there is no benefit in overdoing it. If the door bangs when the window reaches fully closed the regulator has worn out. As DIY you can be inventive cutting and welding to replace the worn teeth. As a paid for job change the regulator, after you've told the Customer the price. Set all the windows individually with the down / up trick. The sunroof is similar, full open to full close, but I can never remember if its up / down, then back / forwards, or back forwards then up / down. Again, don't take your finger off the switch until the device being 'set' has definately stopped moving. Don't anticipate and release the switch early. You should be seeing messages, and hearing beeps, about all these items being 'not set'. As there are five items to run through it seems to take about 30 seconds, and really winds you up the first time. After setting each item, you will get a display of RH front window set, etc. This 'set' process has to be gone thorough every time you disconnect / reconnect the battery. You will also need the radio security code, but I think I mentioned that before " there's an electric motor starts running, which gradually sound as if it's winding down until it abruptly stops. " This is probably the ABS pump, supplying pressure to the brake system. It's standard. HOWEVER, if you aren't pumping the brakes the run time should be much shorter the next time the ignition is on. The repeated long runs suggests the pressure accumulator is shot, this will force excessive operation of the pump. As this is an expensive item, start being prepared to change the accumulator. It's the 'obvious' pressurised unit between the fluid resevoir and the fuse box. You should feel it vibrating while the pump is running. The only other pump that runs is the EAS compresser, but it's the ABS that is usually more noticable. "As soon as I open a door, the display says :- 'Ignition key in' (even thought it's not)," This is failure of the microswitch which senses if the key is in the ignition. A sticking switch is not umcommon. The metal surrounding the ignition key slot, it should move in and out as you use insert / remove the key. Try 'working' it in and out with the tip of the key. Having stood it may be seized good and proper. The switch is available as a seperate componant, but it's a minor problem and can be ignored. "As soon as I open a door, the display says .... '127279.0 0.0' If I put the key in and switch the ignition on, the same code numbers appear, but with the letter 'p' = P.127279.0." This is code for you have been working too hard. Relax and have a cup of tea. 127279.0 is the recorded mileage (or kilometerage) 0.0 is the trip distance. P means the gearlever is in Park. "Would the computer sort everything out if the engine was running?" The human hand does most of it :-) "I hope that the engine would start now if I finished off the ignition connections and the water works." I think you are almost there. Cheers.

"because it's more helpful than the "Heating and Air Conditioning Servos" section that requires you to remove the fascia first?" Correct. The 'Heater only' section tells you that it is possible to access the blend motors without removing the fascia, so follow those steps until you can't, because there is a duct in the way. Then figure out how to move the duct enough to get round it, or inside it. I think the rest of the article comments give you the neccessary clues. For the record, my car has the full Climate Control, therefore the Air Conditioning, therefore the ducts that impede access to the blend motors. Cheers.

Just a reminder, I'm not a V8 sort of person, but no-one else has offered any information. "there are two earth wires in this picture, one comes from the alternator/ belt tensioner bracket, and the other appears from behind the battery tray. I can't tell where they connect, do any of you know please?" Reading the section on removing the engine, it refers to disconnecting earth wires in two places. One is the alternator bracket, the other is the valance. For the latter the picture indicates 'the valance' as being the bodywork under the front end of the fuse box, or between there and the battery box. Both these locations appear to be where your cables are already terminated, so not much help there. All I can suggest is that they are similar to the Diesel installation. On the front face of the RH shock absorber tower there is a bolt holding two earth leads. This could be your common securing point. EDIT: "Looking again at your picture, the leads may not reach towards the top of the shock absorber tower, but I'd take the hint and look for somewhere there was an Earth connection to the chassis. Earthing the chassis seems like a good idea, so basic it's not thought about." On the diesel, the path is battery negative, bodywork valance behind battery box (Mid run Crimp connector), shock absorber tower (cable ends) 2nd cable to lower engine block. Sorry for the slow response, I thought there were plenty of V8 people around to pick this up. D

"David, are venturi kits much more problematic on the higher capacity RV8s than the 3.5s and 3.9s then?" That is what I've read. You must remember I'm inclined towards the 38A, so don't pay much attention to anything about the 3.9, or the 3.5. Also, I'm more interested in the Diesel than in the Petrol. I used to spend some time talking to Hugo at Iwema, and in the absence of any other direction, that is where I'd go if I had an LPG / Petrol query. A query such as why venturi kits seem OK on the 3.5 (if they are, IF!), but not on the 4.0 / 4.6. An alternative trusted source would be Gordon Finlay. I know he uses Iwema stuff, but he also is independant enough to look elsewhere if that suits the application. "Mine's generally been okay on a 3.9, ... has flashed back and blown the intake pipe apart ... " 'Generally OK', a touch of rose tinted glasses perhaps? " ... it's definitely fussy about having a decent spark ..." supports my own comments, Thankyou :-) HTH.

Les, I wasn't being 'funny', or even attempting it. It was just that you had referenced the unit with no other comment, so I wasn't sure whether you understood the significance. Of course, I realised there might be a tank to go with it, but with that vehicle, perhaps not (it possibly having been removed at some time). Again, there was always the possibility that you were so taken with the engine that you hadn't looked in the 'boot'. Neither can it be ignored, especially with a vehicle as 'unloved' as that clearly was, that a cheap and nasty LPG installation just might be the root cause of the reported engine maladies. So. I thought it worth stating the obvious, rather than make a series of assumptions, none of them valid. "Is there some significance to a gas conversion on this engine or something?" Well, Yes, from what I've read. The 4.0 and 4.6 is picky, when LPG'd, about top quality HT items. Changing them before a fault is preventative maintenance in the literal sense, as when they fail the engine doesn't just 'miss' slightly, it backfires and blows the airbox apart. For this reason a sequential injection system, into each manifold runner, is considered the only worthwhile installation. Feeding the complete engine through a single common venturi, thus creating an inlet manifold full of lpg / air is just setting the scene for a monstrous back-fire. I can't tell, from the clues you have given, if the installation is sequential or not. My recommendation, not that you've asked, is to get it running OK on petrol. If the LPG is non-sequential either disable it or get agreement to change it. I don't think you should put your name, however vaguely, to a non-sequential system, so don't let the car leave your care with one in operation. Hope this clarifies the issue. Cheers.

"The top of this box is burned, the writing on the side says 'LandI' ' Auto gas equipment' ' injector emulator'" You appreciate this is telling you an LPG conversion was fitted? In fact, the manky looking alloy unit to the left of the burnt box could be the vaporiser. Cheers.

An interesting job you have there. Has the owner given you a blank cheque? Or perhaps a top limit, then stop? "Have any of you any ideas for releasing the bonnet catch when the lever won't do the job?" Each catch is controlled by a separate cable, both terminating at the lever. Firstly, I'd bounce the bonnet up and down on the sealing rubber, then try the release. Secondly I do the bouncing a bit more, and have someone press the bonnet down onto the rubber, in the region of the catch, then I'd pull the release while the rubber is compressed. Thirdly I'd arrange access at the lever (remove it) so I could pull the cable end for the RH catch only, then pull that cable with self-grip wrench, or similar. If none of those work, ask again. To avoid putting a dent in the bonnet, ONLY press down on the crease that runs across the bonnet, and use the heels of your hands to spread the load. If you push even gently on the flat metal you will dent and stretch it. The RH catch has the 'bonnet open' switch incorporated. When open, you should spend some time unbolting the catch and lubricating it, as the moving parts will be rusty. I use gear oil, being 'sticky' but fluid. The catch is between the R in Range and the headlight glass. "Also the passeneger door won't open from the inside or out, even with the button up. Any ideas on this please? Can the door card be removed while the door is closed (it doesn't look like it)". I've never attempted to remove the door card from a closed door. Looking at the drivers door for guidance, I'd see if it's possible to remove the door seal with the door shut, if you insist on the door card removal approach. Personally I'd leave this until I had the bonnet open, and can apply electrical power. Then I'd wind the window down and treat it as a broken latch. There is an article I wrote on Rangie.com that gives guidance. P38 Front Doors won't open. http://www.rangie.com/articles_model.php?id=393&modelId=2 Try Steve Lund for a replacement engine, ask for one that is properly balanced (not LR balanced). Get a chip from Mark Adams, and that's both of the liner dropping causes eliminated. Changing big lumps like this will be heavy on part costs, but cheaper on labour, assuming you charge a living wage for your time. Plus the outcome is guaranteed good, both for keeping and if selling. "The battery is totally flat and has been for some time. Will this cause problems with the electronics?" No, but you will probably need a new battery. You will also be startled by the chorus of Beeps that will start when you first swtich the ignition on, There will be a series for each door window, and the sunshine roof, all complaining,via the message centre, that they are 'not set'. Oh, you will also need the code for the radio. If it's the LR original fit then any dealer can supply, free of charge. Get the EKA code while you are about it. There should be no charge for this, but it would be nice to think the enquirer would have to prove ownership. So you may need your new owner to get this information, possibly by walking into the Dealer reception with suitable documents and ID available. HTH.

www.interparcel.com This is an independent parcel delivery service, that uses the major carriers, but they are a lot cheaper. They used DHL to ship a parcel for a lot lower price than DHL quoted me directly. They don't specify a size or weight limit up front, you put in the details of size, weight, destination, and they come back with your options. HTH

You need something called a RAVE CD. They come in different versions, as information got updated, but basically they contain the Workshop Manual and the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual). If no-one pops up and offers you one here, then look on eBay but DO make sure you ask the seller that what they are selling is for the UK market (and not the US market), and that it covers a 2000 MY (Model Year) Range Rover. Other Land Rovers are covered on the same CD, but that's not a disadvantage. The CD is designed to operate under any version of Windows from 95 (I think) onwards. These CDs were never available to the public, so every copy you see is a ripped off copy of a Dealers version. These are no longer available as all current Tech Info is available on-line, via a subscription service. http://www.landrovertechinfo.com. I'm not certain of the costs, or the shortest subscription period, but the other method of getting the information is to sign up, then download file, after file, after file, after file etc. You get the idea. The snag, as a newcomer, is that you don't really know what you want. For instance, although the BECM is electrical, the best description of it's functionality is in the Workshop Manual. You can buy the WM and the ETM in paper form from Land Rover, at about £80.00 each. Although you can't post a wanted ad in the Classified forum on this site, you can browse it to see if people here are offering copies of RAVE for sale. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showforum=5 Edit 20/1/06 As Geoff has corrected me, you CAN post a wanted ad. I've not been in that section of the forum before, so just had a quick look to get the url and spotted the '20 postings' rule, although even that confuses by saying 'nudge nudge, you'll probably get away with it, new forum and all that'. I wouldn't in fact call a RAVE CD dodgy. They have been on the open market too long, with no action by Land Rover, and are now obsolete anyway. Whatever, the basic information is in the post, all yours MikeO David - A newbie with a Member Number of 118, compared to newbie MikeO's number of 847. Never mind, it isn't serious, I know my post count is low on this iteration of the Forum.

Written by me in another forum re this car. Actually, it's interesting, in a 'special vehicle' sort of way. I see longer stretched American cars driving round, although as I've mentioned before, they are short of doors, so moving around inside must be a real pain. Presumably they are hired as Chav party wagons, or something. Also as a Special Vehicles we see 127" Defenders used as hearses. 'Any' old car can be used as a Special Vehicle for a Wedding (or Civil Ceremony, if you insist). With this Range Rover, and the use at the rear of the longer doors from a 2 door, it seems to me this could make a good 'Brides Car', with easy access for the big dress, if the rear seat is positioned forward of the rear wheel arch. As Party Transport, with the section of body inserted between both side doors, then a folding rear seat, reversed to face backwards, could be installed behind the front seats, making party going accommodation for 4 to 6, plus the driver and navigator. With the rear seat positioned forward of the rear wheel arch there will be space for two rear facing seats in the luggage compartment, suitable for children going to the party, or as pages going to a wedding. Borrowing ideas developed to meet the MPV market, all the seats could be made easily removable, and a complete 'posh wood' unit slid in, to create a Range Rover hearse. Air suspension, naturally, would lower the vehicle to enable easy access for the bride etc, while raising it for easy coffin access when in hearse mode. I haven't put a tape measure over the car in question, but it's a useful ideas prompt if someone is looking for an interesting alternative scheme. As a hearse I wouldn't dream of doing all the service, rather I'd be offering it as a 'Special Vehicle' to more mainstream firms so they could meet special requests without them having to invest in a specialist vehicle. When early retirement is always an option, one has to keep eyes open to opportunities of generating an income stream to tide one over until the main pension kicks in. Or to augment it if the need arises. Some positive thoughts.

This is typically assumed to be the fuel temperature sensor. It is available as a seperate part from Bosch, as is the essential top cover gasket. The sensor can be changed without removing the pump from the car, or upsetting the timing. All the above is based on the Range Rover installation. I suggest you approach Bosch GB direct, and see if you can find a 'Technical' person to talk to. Most independant diesel specialists seem keen to wrap the parts and procedure in mystery, and either don't know, or will claim they don't know in order to sell you a new pump. Unfortunately I don't have a direct contact name or number, nor part numbers.

"downpipes" This reads to me that they have mixed up a petrol engine with a diesel engine. Whereas the petrol V8 has two downpipes, the straight 6 diesel only has one. Moreover the joint between the pipe work and the turbo charger is flexible, held in place but allowed to move by two long coil springs on the studs. Thus there is no difficulty splitting the joint. NOTE, and check this after the work has been completed, these springs should NOT be coil bound. The torque setting for the nuts is low. Basically the nuts are tightned until a few threads of the stud show through the nut, and that's enough. The nuts don't have to be 'new' every time. " a new clutch was fitted 4000 miles ago at a cost of £515!" Your clutch hasn't failed, in the normal sense. It isn't worn out. At 4000 miles old I'd plan on reinstalling the same cover, friction plate, and release bearing, although there must be a check that a fault in these componants hasn't precipitated the roll pin failure. £515.00 is a reasonable cost " needed for some serious towing next week" How serious? Have you done similar towing with this car in the past? Do watch your engine temperature gauge, and if it starts to rise significantly remember that the quickest way to draw heat from the coolant is to raise the temperature setting on the Climate Control, turn the fans to maximum, and open the trailing edge of the sunshine roof (or top of door windows if no sunshine roof). Direct the air to the windscreen to keep yourself comfortable. Keep the engine running, and preferably keep the car moving, just drop your speed. Don't expect the electric fans to operate, they aren't intended to cope with engine heat in the Diesel, and compared to the actions I've suggested, they are ineffective in this role. HTH

"I'm going to get it checked anyway." I think that's wise, what I suggested gets you near enough, and I confess I only worked it out after I had changed both mine :-) I was 'clever' though, and 'saved' money by buying just the ball joints, thus having to split the adjuster from the worn examples. This meant I couldn't step back. Sorry Geoff, but " managed to leave the steering wheel slightly squint" doesn't match with "did a perfectly satisfactory job" as far as I'm concerned. If I had done the work, perhaps, but not when a trained professional has had a go. The Dealer did mine, £48 +VAT. Expensive, but considering how easy it is to waste tyres at twice the price (each) when the tracking is out I'll put up with it, and make a better job of my work job next time. Cheers.

"the damn thing had a new clutch 5000 miles ago," That's saved you a couple of hundred ponds, because it will be fit for re-use. Mine was halfway through it's expected life span, so I had a new one fitted, but retained the old one. Now I've seen the old one, and found a fault has been cleared which I hope will extend clutch life, the old one will be refitted in 3 years, or even 4 years, if I'm right.