mad_pete

In the picture above can I connect that meaty negative cable directly to the battery negative ? I can't remember if I heard once that you shouldn't do that.

I'd like to get some quick release ones for mine. The stone size a bfg mud can pick up worries me slightly

okay I've bought one of those lovely boxes. And very nice it is too

I might be being a muppet but how does a common negative and positive bus work ? Does that just provide terminals you can connect to if you like ? I thought the positive bus might automatically feed one side of the fuses.

Okay re-wire time. Options are as per this thread the modular fuse and relay box plus the marine fuse box from devon 4x4 or the modular box from vwp. The 2 fuses boxs and relay box is about £90 and the vwp with all the modules is about £120. So is the vwp £30 better ?

Had a look and I can't see it so far. Might have consigned it to the parts I will never use rubbish bin. Sorry.

should be "WILL REQUIRE WELDING TO A CHASSIS" and warning may contain metal

Potentially I've got that kicking about in the garage having fitted a mud dash if you want one.

I ran a dirty big earth strap on mine and that was good for a drop from 3 - 2. 3 and above should be earth fault I think. Check SWR meter is on right setting though.

Range rovers are constant 4wd. Center diff lock is either a lever or automatic through a viscous coupling. The range rover could have been either and will depend on the transfer box.

How many trees to catch on are there in the desert ?

it's a remote tyre inflation/deflation system surely ?

I;m tempted. How difficult are the lanes likely to be ?

Having just blown my CB up I'm tuning my new one up at the moment. I'm using these web pages (chap at the shop is very helpful too) http://www.4x4cb.com/public/page.cfm?CatID=792 These might help. Says 1 to 5 inches might need to come off the aerial

I know Fridge doesn't want to do car wiring. Don't get him in here shouting at me. :-)

Anyone know a sparky near me? I wanted a few relays moved and my wiring generally tidied and I know I wire things like a badly trained monkey

I ordered a truck cab from a scrappy and bolted it in. Notified DVLA of the body type change.

hehe I wouldn't trust my maths

If my car will do 0-60 in say, 10 seconds but I can do 60-0 in more like 3 seconds, surely the brakes will overcome the engine? I might try it tomorrow. Hmm let me attack the issue with bad science Engine 150 BHP. Lets put lose 20% in the drive train. 120 BHP power at the wheels, lets swap to Kw 120 BHP = 88 Kw Brakes convert motion to heat and energy is conserved so at full engine power each brake has to dissipate 22 KW of heat and that's just to stop the car accelerating. At 60 mph a 1.5 ton car has 530 KJ of kinetic energy that has to be dissipated on top of the extra power the engine is adding in. Air resistance is chipping in with about 278 N of drag say. So power of that is ( force x speed ) 278 x 27 = 7.5 KW not that much So each brake needs to be able to dissipate about 25 KW of heat If I take this If my car will do 0-60 in say, 10 seconds but I can do 60-0 in more like 3 seconds Brakes are roughly 3 times more powerful than the engine so 264 KW. So you should be able to overpower the engine and stop in 4 secs at full brake power but if you only manage half power on the brakes I think you'd be looking at overheat and brake fade very quickly. So overall I'd say yes brakes can overpower the engine but you need to be quick.

I've got a wide band sensor :-)

Are those cool 10 LED baragraphs still about ? I can't find one with the 3 colours.

It's not just the battery, I'm going to mount a PC and maybe fuse box behind the passenger seat and meagsquirt is behind the drivers. It would just be that little bit easier if the seats could come out that little bit quicker.

That should be good for the fuel costs and reliability. Good luck :-)

Yeah that's the theory and I grant you I must be the unluckiest V8 buyer but V8 £250 (not that I found one for £250) You need something to pick it up (van hire £40) In my case on strip down corroded bore Engine in bin start again V8 £250 (not that I found one for £250) Corroded injector pins new set of injectors £400 Head gasket failed £100 if you do it yourself V8 runs hot so new rad £80 New fuel filter need high pressure pump from somewhere £20 Probably want new engine mounts, the temp gauge won't be right, there will be some fabrication here and there it'll run hot the engine's lighter so the springs will be higher, and the exhaust will need some work. I probably clocked up £2000 changing from 3.5 carb to 4.2 MS, partly cos I'm unlucky and partly cos some jobs I don't trust myself to do properly This is probably worst case but cylinder head, camshaft, and carb was easy. The thing is still bulletproof, still has the right engine. 2.25 uprated is more reliable than a V8 I would say. If you want reliability carbs are more reliable than EFI. I accidentally ran my 2.25 with no coolant and only noticed when the oil started to smoke and it was still working fine after wards.

oh yes that's right I had the cylinder head as well. Now I remember.