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reb78

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Everything posted by reb78

  1. Interesting thoughts. I cant remember how accessible the oil passages are. Swapping the rear housing would solve all of this as the issue that Ralph had was clearly not caused by a problem there. Ralph, if you get chance, could you post a pic of the relief valve setup please? This is the only thing I havent taken apart on mine so curious as to how it goes together!
  2. I am not sure they would-be pattern springs. D44 bought all the old new GKN stock for these when GKN stopped making them.
  3. You would think, but I dont think thats the case. The clutch is new and thicker than the one that came off, this is the third (?) set of springs tried on it.
  4. The brake ring is static. The cone clutch has two sides covered with friction material. In one position the clutch is held static against the brake ring and in the other it sits against the driving gear. The oil pressure moves the pistons out, as you say, and that moved the clutch and therefore engages/disengages drive. I think it is the rear housing too. But my gut feeling is it is the bore that the solenoid sits in.
  5. They dont make the AT2 anymore - it was a nice tyre though. The AT3 has replaced it (somehow via the AT which we still have on all four corners of the D2 and back of the D3). We have the AT3 on the front of the D3 and they seem good. Neither of the discos are used in challenging conditions as much as the 110 - partly because I dont mind the odd dink on the 110 but also because I still have more faith in the BFGs on the 110.
  6. My theory is a small amount of wear in the channel that the solenoid sits in and so the seals on the solenoid cant work properly and let oil pass through when it it is not supposed to be engaged which is causing the cone to move at rest but not engage either way. Do you have a tool for those caps? It might be worth us making something up but they must come undone.
  7. I think pressure is getting by the solenoid when at rest Ralph. I would be tempted to try the back section of your old OD on the rest of this one from Neil. It must be pressurising when it shouldnt be. I dont think it is the solenoid as that one on it was new.
  8. I didnt know she has Aspergers but, if that is the case, I agree entirley with Snagger. In fact, its probably just as correct to say what Snagger does if she doesnt.
  9. Seriously. Someone close to her needs to bring in an exorcist!
  10. The old tyres I have just taken off look like they should be as you describe, but they handled fine to be honest. Their performance in the snow suprised me as I thought I would struggle with them this year, but no. The new ones have a chunkier sidewall which looks better even if it isnt really functional for my uses. The tread seems to have more sipes cut in - not to the degree of a proper winter tyre, but that may make a difference with grip.
  11. I wouldnt touch Goodyears after using them on mums discovery. Dreadful tyres that make the car shake and rattle over slightly bumpy road. They are well known for it in disco circles. Tyre change fixed it, it wasnt the car setup. 18inch rims didnt help, 16s were even better still.
  12. I thought that - they just picked up a knackered secondhand F150 that was available and pitted it against some brand new cars. You hardly buy a pickup for drag racing either so a weird test all in all.
  13. I can take some pics of the old and new at the weekend. I only eventually replaced the last two because of a puncture and I didn't think they had £20 worth of wear left in them! They might seem expensive but unless they are well over three times the price of your coopers (35k vs 110k) then per mile I bet they work out much cheaper! On the snow this year and last I couldnt fault them. I drove through the Beast from the East at its worst from Taunton to Cornwall last year and they were spot on. Best price I found was here for the tyre only https://www.paddockspares.com/265-75r16-bf-goodrich-all-terrain-t-a-ko2-tyre-only-1.html
  14. BFG AT. Mine are 265/75/16 and are spot on. I will never have another tyre. 110k out of the last set!! Reasonably quiet good on road and off and in the snow/wet//mud. I really rate them.
  15. @V8 Freak , Neil, that would be good if you are passing Lutterworth at some point before we meet up? PTFE tape on the stud has worked. No more oil leaking along it. Plus the D2 is now welded up and has passed its MOT. Thats two out of three cars fully working (for now!)
  16. Haha - I always think if I expect worse it must be better than I expect??! I fell asleep on the sofa last night so didnt get out and as far as striping the cover off of the sill. That joy can be for this evening! YRM do all of these parts for the D1. Its about time they started doing them for the D2 I think!
  17. I hope not. This side isnt as bad - i think. The garage quoted £80ish as a rough estimate to do it, but I brought it home as i am sure it will get worse as i remove the rust and didnt want the price to spiral! I didnt get to bed until 2am this morning as i was finishing off the driver side! Am going to go out and strip it now.
  18. If you cant upload pics on here Mike, I doubt you will be able to manage the touchscreen in the new defender....
  19. Thanks. The trouble again is that now it is all back together, I cant guarantee I can get the thread in the block clean of oil and all of these sealants seem to need that. The disco failed BTW. I welded the sill on one side but only did a visual check of the other. The tester put his thumb through the crust of underseal. I knew it needed looking at but hoped it would be ok this time and i could deal with it at a later date!
  20. If its just seals, pull the whole hub and halfshaft to change the seal. If the preload, pins and bearings needs an overhaul, it is more involved!
  21. Great. Will do that once I have finished welding the disco sills tonight and got it through the MOT tomorrow! One working car at a time! I have two semi complicated sections to make and weld up tonight on the D2.
  22. What about using some PTFE tape on the thread? It should seal even if I cant get the thread in the block clean of oil? And should cope with the heat?
  23. I agree completely. If they had just called it something else it would have been received a lot better!!
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