Disco-Ron

Strange thing is, that on the fornt prop, gen LR cardon prop, the slider is at the diff end............ I'll just have to remember to grease it as often as i remember i guess.......

So, i have one of mr lewis's wide angle rear props on my 90, i put the slip joint at the transfer box end, now, last week i went through loads of deep water, and i removed the prop this week to sort someting, and the slip joint was full of water, this got me thinking that this can't be good for longevity, so, is there a good reason not to put it at the diff end..?? more carp down there, but at least the water could run out.... Any thoughts...????

cheers.............

Cool, i'll get a disco one then, just for that bit extra oomph.......... which wires do i need to upgrade...??

As per title, i have a 300/90, with winch, i don;t use the truck much, but when i do, i need to be able to rely on the battery to have enough guts to deal with whatever i throw at it, i don;t use it for comps as such, but general recovery work at p&p etc.... What can i do, if anything to upgrade the charging system, i have noticed recently that as its not getting much use, it seems sluggish when i start it, the battery is good, and i don;t want/need to run two batteries, or go 24v for the winch etc, it'd just be nice to get a bit more charge........... Cheers.

why not swap the battery and then use jump leads off the good one? Easier than leavin the leads on for 20mins.

so in short, if the address in nottingham that the op wants to take his truck to is an mot station its fine, . . . What are the chances?

it 'might' be the law, however, if its that easy, why do any of up bother taxing and mot ing our cars. Surely you could use this 'law' for almost every journey. . .

I read it recently, i'll try and dig it out.......!! Tacho only required if for 'reward'... ie, payment, and therefore business use.......

I think you'd struggle to find any copper that would understand that longa journey based on an mot booking........... Trailer is the only way....

Can you not connect a slave battery whilst you're swapping the battery...... on a 300, the main power goes straight from the battery to the back of the starter, and the earth, to earth, hows about opening the bonnet, having another battery sat somewhere with jump leads on it, and then swapping the one under the seat, but to be honest, i'm puzzled as to why you would need to swap the battery with the engine running, unless you have some sort of radio system that you don;t have a code for or similar...??????????

More details now on club website...... http://www.dorsetrover.co.uk/ Also, anyone turning up, and quoting LR4x4 when they pay, and their username will get club member rates, ie, £5 off the normal price........!

Easiest way is to remove the damper totally, and see how the steering feels.........

Not really, its a fibreglass shell!! 'THIS IS A RANGEROVER CHASSIS AND RUNNING GEAR WITH A CHALLENGER E TYPE FIBREGLASS BODY SHELL FITTED'

If your damper is still behind the axle, they can easily get bent, even bent a little will make a huge difference to the way it feels............!!

Organised by Dorset Land Rover Owners Club, at Somerly park just outside Rongwood. Alsorts of tracks on the site, from easy to definately not easy, depoending on your skill/vehicle. There will be toilets and catering on site, Starts at 10am, ends at 4pm..... Cost, £25 for club members, £30 for non members.............. Contact me for more info...... Vehicles need to be 'road legal'......

Surely, this is simply a case of a restoration, and not the building of a hybrid as such, fair enough, if you nail coild onto a series chassis and change engine box and bodywork, then i can see the reasoning behind it needing t be checked out, however, how many old cars such as mgb's for example get rebuilt onto new shells, with a recon engine, ie, not original number.... and then simply mot d and put back on the road, how would the dvla know or even suspect that anything might be amiss......... i'm sure you could easily finish the rebuild mot and tax it, and away ya go,....... lets be honest, who;s to say that it didn;t have different axles and maybe engine prior to the start of the rebuild, nothing, all that work could have taken place 30 yrs ago.......

thanks, i think i.ll un adjust it a little, i can live with 4 or 5 clicks on the lever anyway, the one thing that bugs me is the not being able to winch against it, i always seem to be pulling people out of the gloop, i have internal winch controls, but sometimes ya wanna be stood next to the winch. . . Ho hum. Cheers.

Guys, i have a 300 90, and have fitted an Xbrake, with it adjusted so i get about 3 clicks on the handbrake lever, i get a very slight rubbing sound, now, this is the odd bit, the sound only happens when i am 'on' the throttle, so my question is this, is there an element of thrust applied through the transfer box which would result in the output flange being pushed backwards or forwards? and if so, does this mean my bearings or something is pooped..... trucks only done 52 from new...... Cheers.

And, if at-all possible, don;t take the two ends apart, ie, take the slider apart, or, if you do, make sure you make a mark on it so that when it goes back together the splines are in THE SAME SPLINE, this is crucial to achieve smooth runing....

Tom, in a way you're right, however, if a con rod has bent, then the rod bent rather than the engine stop dead, if the engine was running very slowly, then if water is sucked in it may well simply stop dead, however, if it was revving at-all then a bent rod is more likely to occur........

The only thing you might have bent is maybe the spring platform on the axle, you won;t have bent the top mount, as thats the chassis....!

IN my mind, very likely, my suspicion all along has been engine related rather than mount, hence why i originally mentioned idle rpm....... any engine, diesel or petrol will run slightly smoother a little retarded, on my old 1929 Morris, i have a manual engine retard lever, with it retarded it runs slightly slower, and smoother, only really use the retarded position for starting it.... sommetimes with a handle! .... if yours is slightly too advanced, is it easy to start..?? as advancing engines in general makes them more 'peaky' to start.... and a little harsh when cold...

Scottin AZ........... based on the name, and the fact he said 'auto trim shop'.... and NAS spec 110, my guess is his names scott, and he's in Arizona........... one of my favourite areas of the US............ well, that and Moab!!

My first port of call would be to check that all the boost hoses are intact, and then the engine breathers........... i would also say, run it with the bonnet up, and rev it slightly,..... you might even be able to detect where the oil, most likely mist, is coming from....