Disco-Ron

Well, imagine if you will the plate that the winch sits on, this goes over the front crossmember, and has a piece of angle welded to the underside of it where it meets the front of the front cross member, there are than 2 12mm bolts through the cross memeber and the angle to effectively hold the rear of the tray down, on mine, the two front bolts on the winch actually go through the bumper aswell, i have used it for some pretty serious pulls and it hasn't budged at-all!

Bit of a grey area that one to be honest, technically, you shouldn;t use the 'parts' chassis on your truck, however, what you could get away with doing, possibly, is effectively rebuilding the 'parts truck, but using bits off the daily driver.... that way the chassis is still on the correct vehicle, it becomes a bit more complicated when you start thinking about engine numbers etc, however, that can be overcome, but the chassis is the biggest and most relevant component in my opinion....

The holes are already in the chassis, however, if you already have a towbar, most people would just use that, some people that run rtv's prefer a tow ball, as they can simply drop a strop over it and get the job done!! In fact, i have spent all day making my own version of a towbar simply for recovery, not towing.... (pre 96 before anyone yells!) mine is quite heavyweight, and still has a towball,.....

Ensure that the V5 is correctly registered in your name, if he felt like it, or anyone else for that matter, i believe you can apply to dvla for a v5, even if the vehicle isn't/wasn't registered in your name, if he knows the reg no, and the chassis number, i 'think' thats all that is needed, so, remove the plates, although if he's dodgy, he's most likely already noted down the number... It still amazes me the number of people even now selling chassis's on ebay which clearly state, no v5, ideal hybrid etc, things like this are totally illegal, once a chassis has a number, thats it, thats its number for life, unless the dvla are informed of a chassis swap for a NEW one, and a new number issued.....

The tyres will have aded height, and seeing as its a van it could possibly be wearing HD springs..!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-200-300Tdi-Sump-High-Temp-Silicon-RTV-Wurth-/150536199007?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item230ca81b5f

I'm sure Mr Bowyer is always up for a 'deal'...!!!

YOu don;t HAVE to have a bumper to mount a winch, you could have a standard bumper, i made my own winch mount as i didn;t want the winch stuck out in front of the truck, or sat too low so as you can see, my winch sits on top of the bumper..... Or, something like the bikini mount that Goodwinch offer is quite similar, but the winch sits in fornt of the grill.... http://www.dborc.co.uk/goodwinch/ then go 'bumpers and fitting kits, then bikini mount

It depends which bolts you need, on my new chassis, the bottom holes in the back of the crossmember are 16mm, the top ones are m12, the ones in the underside of the crossmember are m10 threaded holes.....

From this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Towbar-Towball-Tow-Bolts-/190060792249?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c408189b9 I would assume that 8.8's are ok.... as thats what they're being sold for!

I think the header tank needs to at the same height in relation to the rad as it is now...!

thinking about it, if you mount the radiator higher than the standard one, then you will get a certain amount of thermo syphon happening anyway, i have a 1929 car, and it doesn't even have a water pump.... and you can run tht all day without a fan and it won;t get too warm..... ok, so its not very powerful, but the water finds its own way around.........

If i were doinmg it, i would relocate the radiator and leave the existing pump in place, 'IF' it fails to pump the water that far, i would then fit an inline pump somewhere convenient....

I got the new chassis loom for my new chasis from them just before xmas, it was identical to the original, including the fact that they obviously (autosparks AND land rover) only make one length loom, so there is 20 odd inches spare in the rear end of the chassis on a 90..... but hey ho, it al works fine....

thanks guys, thats exactly the same as mine, will have another try to fit the guard this morning, but i suspect that the bracket i have has been made wrongly. Cheers.

Also, try disconnecting the fullbeam/dipped switch totally, and see if it still blows...

no pic, can take one tomoorrow..... it does really look like a guard as such, but its definately an extra piece of steel to the tank anyway, as the corners arte kind of open.... if that makes sense, it just seems to be stopping the new guard form going up to the tank quite enough thats all, daft thing is, the advert for the guard says, 'easy to fit', i don;t think i'm stupid, but i just can't see the bracket fitting right..... its one of these... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-TDI-TANK-GUARD-/160401879356?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2558b2713c

Simple one, do all 90 fuel tanks come with a kind of built in tank guard? fixed to the underside of the tank, mine has one, and i suspect that this is whats stopping me fitting my aftermarket guard...?? Cheers.

which is part of the micheldever group in hants, which is also linked up to Protyre..... the tyre world is rapidly becoming a one horse race......LOL!

I've just ordered a spare set from paddocks, they were cheaper than the above link...!

If i was replacing the bearings anyway, i would get the grinder out and cut the bu66er off!!

Tolerances for the fact that they made in britain more like David...LOL!!! I fitted mine only last week, and i can confirm that the holes in my new galv chassis matched those in the new chassis, so you can stop worrying...... the manufacturing process abviously allows for the fact that the castings and chassis' are made by different people, the one 100mm hole makes sure its in the right place, and the other two need to be 'nearly right'....!

I have two of the square work lights aswell, switched by either the reversing lights or me...... so come mot time, it'll be switched off!!

Most off the shelf modulars are +8mm offset, which means the centre of the rim sits 8mm in from the centre of the hub flange, if that makes sense, most standard LR wheels are +33mm....... i have modulars with zero offset, but i only run 32's, so the 35's will most likely be wider.... so regular modulars i suspect would be your best compromise.....

I think some insurance co's actually offer cover for the plate in the policy, actually, something i should think about as i have two plates....!