Disco-Ron

More than likely it'd be in a blue box from them.......... from much experience, most of thier stuff is!!

No reason at-all bob............. it just means the damper will be a bit more prone to damage thats all! I recently did this mod, but i made my own bracket to connect the existing damper to the steering arm..... took about an hr including making the bracket.......

Both parts are bolted solid to the chassis, so why would you ever need a bush...??

Did you drain down the oil cooler in the rad...??? and also, when i recently had to fit another sump, i was amazed to find that there was still about 3/4 inch of oil in the bottom, even after it had stopped dripping..!

thanks steve, oil levels should be fine, no huge leaks and oils were all changed at xmas while the body was off. One thing i might try is driving in diff lock on a local field, if it stops the noise it kind of says its centre diff. I'd rather it was the front though. Lol. Cheers.

Thanks Nige, props are fine, and as supplied..... pretty much new.... font diff has slight oil weap, so a little play in bearing no doubt, but this noise has started suddenly, and not gadual..... its just bugging me.... I have oine thing to try tomorrow, but after that it'll be a case of waiting for something to break, then i might have more of an idea what it is...LOL..!

Lay underneath and see if you have fluid dripping from the bellhousing, if you do, its the slave cylinder, if not, check for fluid on the clutch pedal itself.... if its there, then master cylinder.... however, whichever one it is, i would advise changing both, as they normally follow each other and whilst changing one, you might aswell do both..... Don;t get cheap..!!!!!!!!

Some do David thats true..... one of my late fathers favourite sayings was, 'you never see a framer on a bike..'........ even though as you say, most claim to be poor........ I even have a barrister who's a customer of mine, he is also a small farmer, and has houses rented out on the farm, can you believe even he claims to be 'poor!'.......

My 300 90 has developed an odd noise, it only makes it when you go from on throttle to off, i've just swapped the rear diff for a 4pin one hoping that that would cure it, but it hasn't..... i have checked the front diff, and there is a fair few degrees of twist on the prop before it takes up drive, i can understand that due to the number of links in the axle... however, i also have about 10-15degrees of twist between the front and rear prop in the transfer case,..... which i'm not convinced is right.... can anyone advise how much twist is acceptable in front or centre diffs... Cheers.

Maybe its becuase, in general, farmers trucks are knackered, and not worthy of being nicked..!...........!

Nige, there are lots of cheaper ones out there, but i personally don;t like the cheaper ones, these ones were 175 delivered....... and they (thankfully) didn;t come with the PP cut into them.... As fitted......

I've just fitted these on mine.......... http://www.ppcages.com/?page_id=234 i used the black ones in the link, the grey ones need the bodywork chopping about.....

Or, you've made a total cok up and gone earth on battery to chassis............

I would advise NOT to support the weight of the rear of the vehicle on the axle, when you undo the a frame bolts the weight will force the axle to twist somwhat, and the joint will either not come apart, or you'll never get it back together, far better to support the weight on the chassis!!! It should be quite an easy job to be fair, undo the two big nuts/bolts that hold it to the a frame, and remove the plit pin under the axle mount, undo the nut, and it should come off easily, that said, some people struggle getting the castelated nut undone.........

I would bleed the brakes before you drive it if i were you............. you might wanna add that to the list...!

I forgot to update this......... I am well aware that clubs need cover for events, i'm the treasurer of the local club, and we're alrc affiliated, and we run trials with rac permits, it wasn't cover for use in events that i was concerned about, or looking for, however, i ended up going back to adrian flux, who have now done me a classic policy, that actually does cover me in rtv trials, and can you believe it, even on track days, if i'd be mad enough to do one in a land rover! I actually rang tham to confirm what i was reading as i didn;t really believe it, but thats what it says.... so thats that i guess.... Cost was 312quid fully comp, agreed value, limited mileage to 5000, but it does have to be over 15yrs old, and garaged.............

bear in mind it'd also be the gear box mounts as well!

So, having looked at those pics, it would appear the chassis i removed from my truck would have lasted at least another ten years easy.........!! Good luck with the repairs......... i hope you have lots of grinding discs and 3mm plate.....!!

I'm not expecting cover whilst on the event, but footman james said they wouldn;t even insure me once i said i used it offroad, including p&p days, they said, ' we wouldn;t be able to clarify when the damage occured'... which i guess is a valid point, bearing in mind the truck has fully comp cover...........

HI all, i was wondering who people use for insurance, i have just renewed my policy with adrian flux, this yr on a classic policy, and it specifically exludes use in trials and other competitions etc, this is no use, so i'll have to cancel it, as i do use my truck for rtv trials each month, i tried Footman james, who said basically the same thing... So, if you use your truck competitively, who are you insured through, as i clearly need to sort something out asap..... Cheers.

Well done to the garage, and you for having the sense to photograph everything!! I would expect them to have a few striong words with their britpart rep next time they visit......... if they do.....!!

Paul, if you are in diff lock, that measn that you've 'locked' the centre diff, pushing drive to both axles, 'if' when not in diff lock, one of the props spins, and you go no-where, then if the front prop is spinning, then something ahead of the prop is broken, its as simple as that.... just cos you can drive in difflock means nothing!

You can never have too many earth leads, try putting a jump lead from the block to battery and see if it helps..........

Ben, you say you'r enow only getting one and a half clicks on the transfer box arm, have you tried doing it with one of the wheels in the air, so you can jiggle the wheel whilst trying to select either low or high range etc, as it may not be engaging, hence the lever not moving as far as it should.............

Thank god they've gone, in my experience they were flippin useless...!!