Briarston

If you're really set on using two switches, you could wire the headlamp switch so that it's powered from the output side of the side light switch. Thus, the headlamps won't work without side lights. This does assume that you can tap the existing wiring/relays etc. A proper headlamp switch would be much less trouble, as already stated!

Hello Norman. There seems to be similarities, but also many differences. Will study it more later. Meanwhile, back to the circuit tester. Thanks for trying. Jim

Thanks Not arrived yet.

Pm sent, got to be worth a try. Thanks

Hi all and seasons greetings! I normally frequent the Defender forum, but have recently acquired a 1965 S2a (not a lightweight) 12v. General Service 88" 2.25 petrol. The previous owner has carried out a lot of work on this (new chassis, footwells etc) but parts of the wiring are disconnected (most of engine bay)or have been cut to remove rear tub. Can anyone point me to a wiring diagram for this? It bears little resemblance to the standard civilian diagram which I have. Is it possible to simplify the wiring and use a civvy type light switch? Also, there is a pull switch beneath the dash near the choke control. It has a yellow knob. What is it.? I have tried "search", but the links quoted are "not found". Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.

Would agree with the faulty hoses. Have experienced this twice, not on LR's though. (Dumper truck and VW camper.) Exactly the syptoms you describe. Out of curiosity I tried poking a 1/16"welding rod down one, wouldn't go through without a good push.

Just a thought. Is the needle in the carb. piston set correctly? I think it's shoulder should be flush with the base of the piston, but its a long time since I worked on an SU. so time may have affected memory!

Need to replace the rear wiper motor of my '88 90. Can anyone post a sketck of the park switch connections please? There are 2 wires close together at one end and 1 at the other. Which connects to where? The colours don't match the originals, nor did the originals match the loom colours. There is no plug on the "new" motor wiring, just loose wires. The Haynes wiring dia. is no help. Thanks

Try a search for 200tdi oil pressure on this forum. I was worried by low oil pressure readings on a re-conned engine. I even fitted a new oem pump complete with little noticable improvement. Read Snaggers comments on this issue.

I have a "grabber" device, on a flexible shaft of the Boden cable type. Pressing the button on the end opens out three slim metal fingers at the other end, release and they close up around the inaccessible item. Business end is about 1/4" dia. One of these may do the trick if magnets wont work.

I'm assuming it's a Disco lump? My first thought was to cut the flange off the cast iron Disco piece that bolts to the turbo and bronze the steel bend into it. However, due to the inner shape of the casting this wasn't easily done, so I cut a flange out of 3/8" sreel plate using the old flange as a template.

I have also done the 19J - 200Tdi swap. Just filled in the replacement engine no. in the changes section, and back came the V5 without any queries. I did have a receipt for it, and a garage owning friend who would have given a report if nec.

When, out of curiosity, I tried fitting the thin drive flanges (from a Disco) to my wide hubs I found that the bolt holes didn't match up exactly (PCD). I believe this comes about due to the earlier flanges bolt holes being on an imperial PCD, while the later, thinner ones are on the metric equiv. PCD, only a fraction difference, but the bolts wouldn't go in.

J.T.Leavesley, Alrews,nr. Lichfield, Staffs Anchor supplies also advertise it.

Following on from the above. With the hubs "free" engage 4wd, if you can't turn the prop it is engaged,and the problem is further on, if you can, it aint. I suppose you could have a broken half shaft. Do the easy checks before you start ripping it apart!

So you're saying you can't get 4wd in low range?

Doesn't 4wd engage by spring pressure when the yellow knob is pushed down, or low selected on series boxes? I seem to recall there was a tendency for the selector rod to seize due to corrosion and lack of use/lubrication. End of this rod under a removable cap at the front of the g/box. (sorry, a bit vague, was a long time ago!)

I had exactly the same problem with the same bolt on a Disco. Finally bought an inpact socket (grips on the flats) and that shifted it. Tight wasn't the word for it!

Can't you find a white feed at the multiplug on the bulkhead, to the right of the clutch master cyl. looking from the front, and trace it through? My own (diesel) 90 has white feed there. If yours was originally a diesel the feed to the stop solenoid could probably be used if you can't find a white. Otherwise, a job for the test lamp or meter.

Hello I would say that as you are using a 12v. coil there is no need for the feed from the starter solenoid (which by passes the ballast resistor thus ensuring the low voltage coil gets full power when starting) Don't have a wiring diagram for a Defender, but the ealier RRC diag. shows coil feed as White from ign. switch and the fuel pump feed, also White, connected from this same coil feed. Hope this may be of some help.

Or even something simple but useful such as clutch aligning tools?

I've got a complete 200tdi pump, fitted with new gears, only done a few miles. (I fiited a new pump to try to improve my oil pressure, it didn't, but I'm not putting the "old" one back) if it's any interest to you. Price negotionable!

Disco housing. The holes are already there, just need opening up to tapping size, and a couple of studs to relocate. As already stated, Disco housing lower half is fixed to the ladder frame, 19j one is not. Although others say this has been no problem, I think there is the potential for the joint between the housing and block to ease, resulting in a oil leak before it reaches the crank seal.

I removed the clutch pipe bracket from the bulkhead, moved it across, and pop rivetted it back on to the b/head. Only a case of "easing" rather than bending the metal pipe. In my case, I was able to move the brake pipe over quite easily, again by slightly straightening existing bends. The heat shield was cut down and re-shaped a little, as I couldn't fit it once the engine was in.

If you would like to PM me an email address I'd be happy to send photos of how I mounted my airfilter. Not the only way of doing it of course, but I find it satisfactory.