Briarston

I think the screws in the drum are only there to stop the drum falling on your head when removing the prop shaft. As already said, the prop shaft nuts normally secure it. The hand brake shoes aren't adjusted up to tight are they?

Do you have the coil connected correctly in terms of polarity? ie, they used to be marked "SW (ign. switch)" and "CB (contact breaker)" later ones marked "+" and "-", poss. and neg. depending whether the vehicle is poss. or neg. earth.

If the starter was engaged while driving, due to the gearing ratio between the flywheel ring gear and the starter pinion, the engine would be driving the starter motor at very high revs. This can cause the commutator to "throw the solder" due to centrifugal force plus heat created. Look inside the motor for a ring of "silver" dust.

If you can loosen the ball joint nut with the vehicle standing on it's wheels, put some weight under the A frame with a jack, then hit the housing. Nothing heavy to fall on you this way, than if you get carried away with the big levers.

There is a thread currently running in the Defender forum on this subject, have you looked there?

Hi gang Got the old 90 out of the garage this morning (1988 model, formally a TD, Disco 200tdi converted a couple of years ago) started up fine, parked it across the yard for the day while I got another vehicle inside. Came to bring it back in tonight, as soon as I turned on the battery master switch the ign. lights came on, even though the key was still in my hand. It started up fine, drove inside, switched off and the engine kept running. Turned off the batt. master and it contiued to run. Had to stop it by pulling the wire off the stop solenoid. I'm guessing it was being powered by the alternator, backfeeding to the ign. circuits. I'm inclined to think the ign. switch has gone faulty, or would you think alternator? Any comments/advice would be most welcome!

I'm guessing this is a used engine, fitted "as is"? I would have thought that at least they could have run it up, drained the oil and refilled it. I think I would be a liitle concerned about it lying outside, possibly with no oil filler cap, getting water inside, as opposed to condensation. Hope it turns out to be ok, and not an existing problem with the engine. Keep a lookout for any water loss in the time before you take it back in.

Black fluid is, as you say, usually a sign of seals failing. Also, if you needed a "good top up" it suggests you are loosing fluid, very likely due to the above, and likely from the slave cylinder. Personally, I would be inclined to fit a new slave cylinder - they're not that much, and see what happens. You could deal with the master cyl. later without too much trouble. The pipework, other than the flex, should not be a problem. Otherwise, you could play safe and change both cylinders while you're at it. The choice is yours!

Ah, you didn't say in your initial post that half the electricals were missing! By a "ready source of s/hand parts" I was referring to the 12v. parts you would be needing. Sorry for the small misunderstanding.

Many say the 24v. system is superior. The 24v. "Lightweight" I worked on a while ago had a voltage dropper for the 12v. coil, don't know if your S3 is the same, but I would have thought it would be pretty standard. You can replace the shielded distributor, plug leads, coil and plugs with ordinary S3 fitments, leaving all other electrical fittings as is. You could probably replace the large military alternator with a 24v. commercial vehicle one if you wished. Surely changing everything electrical will be time consuming, not to mention costly, unless you have a ready source for s/hand parts.

If you have already got the grinder to it could you cut some "shoulders" to allow a puller to locate? The centre bolt of the puller would work against the end of the cv. shaft. Try giving it a good soaking in proper penetrating oil first, and perhaps a bit of heat when you have some pressure on it. Might be worth a try, you still have the "butcher it" option if it doesn't!

I know you are convinced that it's engine oil, but you could clutch at a passing straw, and check your clutch master cyl. reservoir. Clutch fluid which has dribbled round a flywheel housing can be pretty black and gooey looking. You say it drips "after starting and moving", in which case you will have operated the clutch a time or two. Also, wouldn't a rear main seal leak all the time the engine is running? It'll only take seconds to check the fluid level, you MAY be lucky and save a lot of work.

Loose wheel bearings causing brake pad "knock back" perhaps?

It's not that hard to do! I managed it, so you should be able to.

Assuming you are changing the switch, start by cleaning the top of the t/box. Remove the old switch and start the new one in a couple of turns. Engage the diff. lock, making sure it is engaged - jack up a wheel and rotate it until it engages. Connect a meter or test lamp across the switch and screw it in until the lamp just lights or the meter flicks. Give the switch another half turn in and tighten the lock nut. Screwing the switch too far can stop the diff. lock engaging.

If the bracket you have covers the two holes, you could drill it to suit them. Spacers would probably be needed between the bracket and t/box. I had to do this when I fitted a Disco t/box. That didn't have the bolt holes on the rear face.

You could try Jones Springs, Darlaston, long established makers of leaf springs. see www.jones-springs.co.uk

The terminals can also rot off the t/box switch. (guess how I know!)The switch is on top of the t/box. I think you can get at it just by removing the driver's side floor plate. (I'd got the tunnel off as well as I was working on the linkages, so can't swear to this)

I upgraded from one similar about 15yrs. ago. I got a "V" twin direct drive 3hp. model (Airmate I think) 10(?)cfm. This will keep up with a high pressure spray gun running at 60psi.almost continuously (spraying cars),1/2" air wrench, air chisel, and die grinder, but my DA sander tends to beat it after a couple of minutes. All in all, though, it does pretty well all I need.

VW were using exhaust heat (warm/hot air) for cabin heating years ago with air cooled engines. Perhaps you could make up a hot air system. Would need a fan, a fresh air intake, and make VERY VERY sure you don't have an exhaust leak in the crucial area!

I don't think the TD flywheel housing bolts into the ladder frame of the 200Tdi engine, as does the original fitting. It's only necessary to counterbore the holes and fit socket head bolts a little shorter than the originals which pass through the g/box flange and flywheel housing. It's an easy job to to relocate the studs which need to be moved. The holes are already there, just tap them. I'm assuming it's a Disco engine you fitted.

My local motor factors make up brake pipes, just measure the length(s) and specify what unions are required, or take in the old ones as a pattern. They can often do this while I wait, or at least the same day, using copper pipe. Pretty cheap as well. Don't you have such a place in your area? Nothing wrong with buying your own kit, of course, depends how often you feel you may need it. You also need a selection of unions.

I've got a Durite gauge fitted. That steadies at about 82c,with the top of the rad. hot same as yours. The thermostat doesn't open with a bang, so perhaps 88c is when it's fully open?

I did it, for the first time, guided by this write up. Quite straightforward. Instead of driving the shaft out as shown, I refitted the flange, threading on the nut about halfway, and put two spacers of suitable thickness(one each side)between the flange and the t/box nose. Tightening the nut pulled the shaft and bearing. This needs to be done two or three times as the amount pulled each time is small. When the bearing was flush with the end of the housing a quick tap with hammer and bar popped it right out. Not a job to be afraid of!

I don't think I'd want to buy a new one!, but if there is a "proper" part available and affordable it may be the better way to go. Unless, like me, you enjoy making such things.