Steve 90

Just to clear things up, I was not arguing the legality of full Hydro. I was just making the point there is no way a vehicle can fail an MOT because of it. Just annoys me continually reading "you cant do that coz it wont pass MOT" when the person saying that obviously doesn't know what is involved and is stating something that is NOT a fact. If you dont know, why say anything? Having a Valid MOT and being legal to drive on the road through construction and use regulations are two completely different things. I'll leave it to everyone else to argue over legality . I know my opinion, but im keeping that to myself

:rofl:

Why should "the clown that signed the MOT certificate" as you put it have anything to do with it. You can only fail a vehicle for MOT if there is a RFR (Reson for refusal) as set out by Vosa. There is nothing saying that a vehicle can fail an MOT for not having a mechanical link in the sterring so it will pass. Think your getting that confused with Cons & use.

Doh, Must have posted at the same time!

Yes they do have stronger box's and the firm your looking for is Adwest.

I have them on my disco. They aren't noisy in the slightest. Drive just like any other branded AT as in fine, No problems but probably not quite as good as a 100% road tyre. They are a very good all round tire IMHO. Seem good on twisty back roads. I tow the challenge truck and trailer (which must be nearly 3 ton) on the motorway at well above advisable speeds and they are fine but they also seem to grip reasonably when you need to drag it all into a field. Wear wise I cant really comment as Ive only had them on for about 4-5000miles but no noticeable wear yet so I think they will be OK. Basically they are a good tyre at a good bit less than a BFG. If you have chance of some at reasonable cost then buy them, You wont be disappointed.

A good point but is there a winch that cant? Ive had similar problems with the low line winch popping out of engagement and Milemarkers are known for the drums breaking. The superwinch Husky would probably be your best bet but but they are painful to use. In all fairness the 12mm bolt is stronger than it needs to be so I'm happy with that. The only time Ive had an a&$e twitching breakage was at the top of a near vertical 60 ft drop in Ireland when the rear winch rope broke just as I went over the edge :o

Many of the cars on the road have recessed lights that are only viewable from the front!

Demolition derby????? Surely the desire to get a decent result would stop that. To do well you have to finish and if you treat it like a demolition derby you aint going to finish. We were second last year and the only damage to both cars was a broken Mirror and bent track rods (also a winch failure that dropped us some time but that's just one of those things). So we don't knock the truck about but I still would not want to play Russian roulette with other road users lives by unnecessarily driving the truck on the road. No matter how well you check it over there's no way you can be sure there isn't a track rod end about to brake off or a brake hose about to burst. Even the most careful driver in the world will have a slip up now and again and could risk that sort of damage without knowing. I will use the truck on the road if the event says we have to but I don't see the point in doing it when its not needed just to say "I drive to and from all events" as I don't think people should, Its just not safe.

Well illegal or not the mod of cutting the front corner away makes a huge difference when driving. Stops you getting hung up on those front corners and you will find yourself driving stuff you normally get hung up on and pulling the winch out. From an MOT point of view as long as the lights are positioned right and there are no sharp edges there are no problems. Cons' and use, If they are like the std replacement (IE, Front corner not cut off) there's no problem. If you did trim the front corner you would have to be sure the lights are in there right locations but with a bit of reading up that would be perfectly possible. I do think there would be an issue with the exposed tyre. That would be something you could make a removable section for reasonably easily, Fit it for road use then remove it off road. It would be too much faffing for me when my truck only gets used on road to go for an MOT but I can see why it would be a concern for someone who uses there truck on the road regularly. My truck is here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23815 with the pic's of the north off road wings and the more recent trimmed ones. Now named "Edna" By Cider man due to its more than passing resemblance of a certain TV stars glasses.

Any body know what sort of pressure the fluid would be going through the cooler? I assume its piped through the cooler on its return back to the sump so not a great amount????

Rather than buy a K&N just stretch a pair of tights over the end of the intake, Much cheaper and probably filters better. I hate them, Everything Ive had them on has had signs of dirt getting through.

And the pipes will still be in the same place dumb a$$ :rofl: BTW, Thank you for my lurrrrrverly Rad James.

Nige, When you fitted the trigger wheel did you throw away the back plate with the welded nuts? If I try and keep it all and sandwich my trigger wheel in there I run out of room so I think its gona have to go! Cheers. Steve.

The longer part of the disslocation cone goes on the inside but the turret itself is sloped so there is only one possition they can go. Will check when I get to work. Give Gwyn a call, He'll be there today.

A very wise move IMHO. We parked a trailer opposite the junction last year. We didn't have to use it and drove too and from the site on both days but it was there as backup. I would much rather have the trailer there "just in case" than drive the truck from the site in a dangerous state (I know of people leaving the site with broken track rod end's tied together , No brakes due to broken brake pipes and broken and bodges steering bars in 07) Makes sense too me to have a trailer there if something does go wrong!

I mean exactly like that, Only with the oil cooler still fitted (unless I decide to run a seperate one). Is that the one you run on your V8? Does it keep its cool OK, Even when hardly moving or working hard?

100% confident in doing the alterations, We used to repair most rads "in house" before they all went plastic. The bit im not so sure of is the effect to the efficiency of the rad with coolant taking a different route. I dont think it will make a difference, Just seeing what others think. It would effectively be a radiator with half as many rows but twice as long!

I have a 90/110 TD rad to go in the truck with the rebuild. There's a small problem, as I have moved the rad tight against the steering box it wont fit. The bottom hose wants to be where the steering box is!! Its a reasonably simple job to alter it to have both hoses on the L/H side with a division in the end tank between the hoses (as a 300 tdi rad its running now) Would it reduce cooling efficiency at all? I cant see it would but im known to be wrong far too often so I thought id ask the opinions of others. cheers. Steve.

Cheers Mate. It all makes sense now.

Hendrik, What did you do after? What size cooler/s did you use and where did you get them from? Thanks. Steve.

Cheers Nige. Yes re MS, There's a man you all know on the case as we speak! Im not looking for perfection just something decent for an otherwise std 4.2. The 3.9 front pipes I have here are poor looking, Not overly big diameter, Even smaller on the bends and as you say, More crunched into one than a blend. not keen on moving the power up, Hence this thread. the only "well tucked up" headers I could find were 4-1. So I might well use the 3.9 front pipes I have and mod them to fit. Any idea what sort of bore they are supposed to be at each stage? Just so I can check these arn't a very poor set, Made well under size. In which case I'll order another set. The rest of the system will be a straight through silencer and 65mm tube exiting behind the rear wheel just above the chassis, the same as it is now really. Will that be OK?

As most of you will know from my recent posts im gathering bits together for a recently acquired 4.2 V8 auto to be fitted in my challenge truck. Was going to run the standard manifolds and get some non cat front pipe's which I will cut and shut to fit better/much more tucked in. Ordering front pipes seemed easiest to get flanges, Collectors and a selection of bends but ive seen a few sets now and they are all horrible, The bends are poor and the collectors are even worse. So now im thinking of going for some tubular manifolds. What works and what doesn't? Is a 4-2-1 better for bottom/mid than a 4-1 on a RV8? Or is the V8 not really that fussy? Whatever it is, it will have to be tucked in neatly, above the chassis bottom and over the crossmember. If possible in mild steel as I will almost certainly have to alter it and add Lambda sensors (if they dont already have them)., Although if it has to be, stainless would be OK. Any recommendations or advise from all those that are more familiar with V8's than myself (that will be everyone) gratefully received. Thanks. Steve.

Not much use to you Bish but watching with interest as I need one for mine. Think im going oil to air with a small fan and mounting on cage behind cab!

I have a 4.2 V8 from a K reg LSE. The PAS pump and pulley are missing. I don't need the pump, only the pulley so I thought no problem I'll order it by chassis number. Not so easy. The one they say it should have has 2x single V groves but im sure the PAS pump on the RR it came out of had a Multi V belt from the crank to the pump which then had a single V drive up to the alternator. This could be wrong but I seem to remember it being like this. On the front of the crank there is a single V pulley which drives the water pump, Which is then piggy backed off to the Air con via another single v belt. Behind that on the crack is a multi v pulley (6 rib I think) which shows sign of being used and is the one I thought drove the PAS pump and in turn had a single V piggy back up to the alt. At the back on the crank (closest to the block) there's sign of another single V which also looks to have been used but I cant work out what for. Have I got this right???? Am I imagining the PAS pump having a multi V and single V pulley(which landrover say does not exist)???? Is it supposed to be set up some other way that I have missed????? Hope someone can help as Im trying to sort the bits and make brackets for the ZF steering pump and would like to know how it is originally, Although it will probably be very different it would be nice to know! Thanks in advance. Steve.