bill van snorkle

46.1 degrees Steve ? But you weren't phaffing about out there working on an un co operative Range Rover.! Yes the clutch has the elliptical pin, but no matter what position it is turned makes no difference. Almost as annoying is that the master cylinder was sold to me as a direct replacement for the no longer available Girlock unit, but I had to knock a dent in the bulkhead in order to remove the lid from the fluid reservoir. the firm I bought it from are still away on Xmas holidays.In Adelaide as it happens.

To do that on the RRC would still require that the pipe and hose be disconnected from the slave cylinder in order to be able to refit them to the vehicle. I'm tempted to nick a M/cyl off a 60 series Landcruiser parts vehicle in the paddock and adapt that. I think you were right Daan when you commented once that " life is too short to waste most of it maintaining any more than one Landrover product." Or words to that effect.

Over the years I have known of 2 occasions where loss of a wheel due to halfshaft breakage has lead to fatal rollovers in steep terrain. One very near tragedy when an early 45 series with C clip axles had to be abandoned in the desert when the wheel of a broken halfshaft couldn't be kept in place to allow the truck to limp along in front wheel drive. In Australia the full floating rear axle was introduced at the same time that Toyota changed from 3 to 4 speed gearboxes, circa 1975 ish.

Did you not get 60's, 55's, 45's and 40's with fully floating rear axles over there Dan? I would never run the old non floating C clip axles, I don't care how much stronger they are than LandRover items.

Robert. After bleeding the M/cyl on the bench, I fit it up to the vehicle with the bleed screw still fitted, and when I connect up the pedal it is solid and doesn't bypass. It's when I remove the bleed screw and connect the pipe to the slave, that is when fluid doesn't enter the pressure chamber. It just doesn't make any sense, and seems to require a one way valve at the M/cyl outlet for bleeding purposes.Unfortunately I can't get at the flexible hose to clamp it to replicate a one way valve. I've parked the vehicle left hand down, right hand down, and on compound angles when attempting to bleed, all to no avail.

I this happened a while ago, I'm surprised that Portia is still speaking to Ellen, Lol. Bit of a worry though, that the rough, tough Fender will forever be associated with Gayness ! not that there is anything wrong with being gay, mind.

Clutch M/cyl failed a couple of weeks ago, so I replaced it with a working one from a parts vehicle. It won't pump or transfer fluid to the pressure chamber. Replaced it with a new one that works perfectly well on the bench with a bleed screw fitted to the outlet. Again it doesn't pump or transfer fluid from reservoir to pressure chamber when fitted to vehicle. Can't generate any pressure to bleed the system. If I loosen bleed screw on slave cyl, fluid will dribble out, but still no action from the pedal. Removed M/cyl again and works on the bench ! Bloody infuriating. I am having to work outside in 43 degree temperatures and I am about to set fire to the frigging thing. Surely these things that are supposed to be serviceable and repairable in the bush shouldn't require pressure bleeding?

You forgot the Snorkle Lock circa 1978 Nige. Best selectable difflock for LR's on the market in its day. Actually it was the only one on the market, and the material quality (Manufactured in Taiwan) wasn't very good Lol.

Some later LT230's don't have the PTO splines cut on the input gear.

If fitted correctly the panhard rod bolts, just like leaf spring shackle, trailing arm and radius arm bolts will nor be subject to shear forces. That is the job of the central tube of the bushing.

I've had the same panhard rod bushings in My series LR for well over 10 years.I set mine up so that I need to jack the chassis up an inch or two before the bolts can be fitted easily. Unlike the standard fitment this preloads the bushings at ride height and reduces the tendency toward death wobbles with large heavy mud caked unbalanced wheels and tyres, and also allow more suspension droop and articulation before the bushes are strained to their maximum.My suspension setup has significantly more droop than compression travel.

Of course the ex Buick alloy Rover engine wasn't the the first or only v8 that Rover produced. There was the 60 degree 18 litre Rover V8 Meteorite engines of the 1950'/60s which powered some of the Thornycroft Antar tank transporters. It was actually a cut down V12 Meteor tank engine, which itself was a derivative of the Rolls Royce Merlin aircraft lump. The Meteorite was about as successful an engine as the LandRover 2.5 litre Normally aspirated diesel engine.

If you are broke Michele, and look likely remaining that way for some time, stick with the 2.25 litre. Spark plugs last forever, ignition is basic, simple and reliable. Any old oil will do in the sump at a pinch. Even a mix of oil and water and lack of regular servicing doesn't kill em. When I pulled up on the shores of Lake Eyre in the middle of nowhere in Sth Australia some years ago, with a bodged up stake damaged radiator and only enough fresh water for drinking, I was glad to have the all cast iron goodness of the old 4 banger so that I could fill the cooling system with salt water to enable me to get back to civilization. Try that with an ally engine and hot salt water would Roger it in no time. That's what I was referring to when I mentioned 'survivability'. Much of the remainder of Series LandRover running gear, barring the transfercase, I wouldn't give tuppence for however.

I think the Russian girls in or out of their tiny bikinis could do me some damage if they had a mind to Lol. I might stand a chance if they resisted rushen and took their time though. I'll get my coat ! I know where the door is.

Oh that's a shame. I thought the Hereafter may have been a bit like McDonalds where you could upgrade, downgrade or skip the pickles or cheese.

I think I will abandon my plans to enter next year Lol. Gee for that kind of Wonga I could buy a used bulldozer and cut a few more jungle style tracks at home.

I appreciate this is a LandRover forum, but if you were to plan a realistic, serious attempt at winning the event, What vehicle would you use as a base to start building from?

Then fix it dear Zander dear Zander dear Zander, Fix It! I would like to visit Heaven and Hell before I die. So that I can make an informed choice !

Well, just take them in and get them fixed ! Or you could become a drug dealer, and the wholesale supplier could finance a fact finding tour of headquarters for you. you could do the Gap on the way there.

With standard LandRover Spiral Bevel diffs, the rolling resitance of the diff is negligible, but for vehicle fitted with hypoid diffs there may be some saving in fuel usage, but it would probably never repay the cost of the free wheel hubs. Last time I looked the hubs were the carp AVM brand, so I wouldn't bother.

In that situation you need to simulate traction to the wheel in the air by brake modulation to transfer drive to the wheel on the ground. Fine on vehicles with auto trans like my 2.6 Isuzu Trooper, but just stalls the engine on my high geared manual trans 2.3 Trooper. Just my opinion, but if you have strong axles and absolutely positively need to get there, and have control in all situations, then selectable mechanical lockers are the only option.

Resurrecting this thread to inquire if any forumers are still planning an assault on 'The Gap'? There are some fairly hardcore 4wd clubs in South America. It probably wouldn't be too difficult to persuade a few of those members to join in a combined expedition, and to add some additional protection against Bandito's. I have always had a relatively shallow bucket, but ever since I was a young lad, driving the Darien Gap has always been top of the bucket list of things to do before I die.

Have you driven a C202 in anger offroad Dan? I am only guessing, but the rear facing spring shackles on the front suspension is similar to a Series LR, so would likely axle tramp, hop and pig root like LR's too without some form of wrap control.

All the afore mentioned options are well and good in the UK and the Continent where you will probably not get more than 20 miles from the nearest auto electrical or fuel injection technical assistance, but for pure self sufficient survivability in the remote outback it is hard to go past a good old ever reliable, virtually indestructible, cast iron, carbureted 2.25 litre engine. All I want is a suitable clutch operated supercharger for those long greasy hills that can't be conquered with crawler gears and difflocks. Oh, and cheaper petrol and LP gas prices. I do have 2 Rovers with 3.5 v8's, but I wouldn't trust them in conditions where my life depended on their reliability like I have done with the 2.25.

Unless I have my Jeep models confused, the CJ2A was the tinniest Jeep ever made. They screwed the sheetmetal rollers for the chassis and bodywork down to the maximum. They make a series one Landrover look like a Centurion tank by comparison. I'm surprised you could find a surviving restorable one in the UK Dan.