crwoody

"...They miracusly found differential braking on application of the parking brake.... I would have thought that both wheel will be absolutely the same..." Could that be because the braking force is applied via a differential? If you apply the handbrake where there is less grip on one side then one wheel will carry on rolling and the one with least grip will slip, maybe even turn backwards. Sounds to me like your tester has no experience of transmission brakes, or Land Rovers in general.

"I had a look at my registration cert and it says: 5555555 KW and 0 emmissions!" I want one of those

Yes your'e right there but there is a point under the sill as well, (I think,) it's so long since I used one I had forgotten

As above - The proper Defender jack is a long screw type side-lift jack that engages with the chassis under the sills which means you have to jack the body up until the springs are fully extended, then the wheel comes off the ground. The Disco jack is a compact double-lift hydraulic jobbie that sits nicely under the axle, gets the wheel off the ground in just a few pumps without lifting the whole body. I always keep one in the back of my Defender.

What car is it - 200, 300, Td5 ?

G-Wagen gearbox during a trip to Morocco last year (not mine): -

Maybe not, they used it with the 3.5 V8, but it could be compromised with a higher torque big diesel. The R380 was a re-designed version of it built to be stronger. Some interesting reading here : - http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/gearboxes.htm

Might have a problem with the old LT77 box ripping itself to bits with some of these, R380 would give you a bit more scope for upping the power output.

My apologies, I guess the earlier ones must be different then, I was going off the 300tdi diagram (attached), the Td5 is very similar too.

There is a resistor connected in series with the motor to drop the voltage for slow speed mode, for fast speed the resistor is by-passed by a contact on the control switch, so that suggests that the motor itself is OK and the switch is a bit past it's best.

My 2001 td5 has never had one, never been a problem with MOT's. I'm sure that cats on diesels are much less of an issue at MOT time because the test is primarily for smoke and not all the other noxious stuff you get out of a petrol engine.

Good job you spotted that, with the washers on the that way round you lose almost all flexibility in the rubber bushes, so the threaded spigot flexes against the body of the shocker instead where it will eventually break off, tear a hole in the shocker and loose all its life-juice. gives you a very bouncy ride, quite amusing in a field but not very safe on the road.

Engaging the centre diif lock will give you front wheel drive with no rear prop.

If it is the vac pump thats ticking, changing the gasket wont stop it. I had a 300tdi disco with the same problem, (it was leaking badly too,) replacing the vac pump with a good second-hand one solved it completely. I would suggest you take it off and check if the plunger is pushed fully out by its spring, if it has unsprung free movement then it's goosed.

Take up loose play only, also make sure the washers have the curved shape facing away from the rubber bushes, otherwise you risk breaking the threaded bit off the end of the shocker instead of the rubber taking the flexing. (Dont ask me how I know.)

Strange that, mine makes an odd noise too, similar to what you describe, but only on the over-run and only as the speed passes between 38 - 36 mph. I am wondering if there is something wrong with the rear prop shaft UJ's, I've greased them and cant find any play to speak of. Does yours do it at a specific speed?

Based on what I have in mine, (see picture,) I think you'll find the one on the right above the fuse box is for the glowplugs and the other (yellow) one is the "Main" relay switched from the ECU. I dont think it matters what brand of relay is used so long as it has the same connector configuration and power rating, they all seem to be pretty standard nowdays.

Wot he said!! ^^^ Don't forget the one on the back door too.

When you say you've tested the wires going into the motor, do you mean you've tested for volts while operating the switch or for Ohms (resistance) across the motor? If you found no voltage, it may well be the switch as K88 MUD says but there is also a seperate 20 Amp fuse for each window.

Actually no, not quite the same, mine would run and drive normally for maybe a few minutes or even half an hour, then it would cut out just as if the ignition was switched off, occasionally it would re-start after cycling the ignition but mostly it would not start for some time. The odd thing with my one was that when it was in its "non starting mode" you could hear one of the relays under the seat chattering and buzzing just with the ignition switched on, if after a while I switched the ignition on and couldn't hear the buzzing, then it would start normally. Do you have access to any diagnostics devices, Nanocom or similar? I'm wondering if there are any fault codes logged which may help to diagnose it. Still may not be the ECU - there's always hope. Edit; While trying to diagnose mine, I took the lid off and plugged it back in and found that I could gently tap on some of the internal parts with a small screwdriver handle and get the fault to come and go, from this, I deduced that there were some (or at least one) "dry joints" (bad solder joints) on the board, I couldn't see any and went round it with spray flux and solder iron but never found it. A replacement ECU completely solved the problem.

Yes it does, it's under the RH seatbox next to the engine ECU, but I doubt this is the cause of it cutting out. I had a similar problem with mine last year and I found that I could remove the fuel pump relay (or fuse)while the engine was running and it made very little difference. It appears that once the fuel system is primed and running, there is sufficient suction from the unit injectors to maintain the flow of fuel. My problem turned out to be due to the ECU.

I dont know for sure but I would suspect there may have been a few design changes over the years, same as with the front door check-straps. I would be wary of fitting light guards as a solution though, you'll just end up with bodywork damage instead of broken lights, might be better to fix up some sort of alternative retainer, maybe a bit of seat belt webbing or a section of an old strop, even if only temporary until the correct bits can be sourced.

Sounds likely to be the vacuum pump for the brake servo, they have a tendency to do that when the internal return spring breaks causing the plunger to not follow the cam properly.

I'm with callum here. My old 90, a van with no headlining, was a pain on cold mornings, masses of condensation inside the roof which all sloshed down to the front O/S corner and on my head every time I set off from cold. When I got a new roof for my current 90, I got a van roof because I didn't want any more glass in it, mine being a CSW, it had a roof lining anyway, although with the cutouts for the alpine lights and sunroof. Before I fitted it, I got some closed cell plastic foam sheeting, about 4mm thick and cut sections to fit the entire roof and glued it on before re-fitting the original roof lining. While the newer 90 was a big improvement on the old one in terms of noise and warmth, it's definately improved even more now with the extra layer of insulation, so I would say don't chuck it out unless your going to replace it.

That pressure drop issue sounds like either a crack in the head or the injector body O ring seals, unless of course there's an external leak somewhere, but I would have thought that would be self evident. Are you getting any increase in the oil level in the sump or smell of diesel in the oil? I did a similar test on a spare head of mine but using compressed air instead of fuel and got a similar result - after changing the O rings. The next thing for mine is to try to find a suitably large container, fill it with diesel or parrafin, submerge the head and try again. Clive.