crwoody

Looks OK in the picture, seller says "Taken from the genuine Land Rover mould" but fails to say what it's made of. Might be worth a question to the seller?

I think this will be the one.

Monstersback, not sure if it's for the same reason but I've had a similar problem with mine ever since I replaced the engine ECU with the later (flashable) type. From a cold start it's OK ticking over but when you give it some gas it chuffs out a load of whitish smoke but doesn't rev up at all, if I leave it to tick over for a minute and then rev it, it runs fine with no smoke. I get quite a few error codes with the Nanocom but they're mostly irrelevant - auto box, air con etc, neither of which I have, but the more relevant one is "Noisy crank signal", I can clear it but it always comes back. Might just be worth checking which ECU you have, it would normally be a NNN000120 on a 51 plate, I've replaced mine with a NNN50020 and had the problem ever since.

Not so sure about head gasket but have you checked for diesel fuel in the engine oil, either by the smell of it or the oil level going up. Theres a possible problem where the "O" rings on the injectors leak and allow fuel into the oilways around the camshaft in the head. Cracks in the head are also known to cause this too. Have you checked around the fuel filter for and signs of leaks/wetness.

You can have some alternative Land Rover fun without a front propshaft in place - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihJ67oYRE78

Might be worth while jacking up one of the front wheels with the handbrake on and turn the jacked wheel with the difflock lever to the right and left, just to see which way round the difflock lever does actually work, (if at all!)

I think you'll find that where the front drive flange is a seperate item that connects to the splined end of the CV joint outer end, the rear drive flange is integral to the half shaft and not replaceable as a seperate item. Well mine are like this anyway. Edit; beat me to it again.

Ah yes, just read the first post properly Sorry

I've had a similar problem on mine caused by excessive play in the front wheel bearings causing the hub/disc to move from side to side and pushing the caliper pistons further back than normal. This then needs a longer travel on the brake pedal the first couple of times, then its OK for a bit until another sharp manouvre.

You mean like these? - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Defender-90-110-Tube-wing-ULTIMATE-KIT_W0QQitemZ150316480403QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091013?IMSfp=TL091013152003r39388

Shouldn't be a problem for the centre diff in normal driving, after all it's designed to accomodate differing output shaft speeds, thas it's purpose. The only time it would give you grief is if you have it locked while on a non slippery surface, e.g. tarmac but of course you wouldn't do that anyway - would you?

Might have a bit of a problem with picking up fumes and burnt oil smells from the engine without an external heater inlet.

I don't know if the Disco one is the same but I've got a spare Defender one in my shed, you can have it if you're down this way (Hampshire) anytime. I got a "glass free" van roof for mine after getting wedged under a tree and breaking one of the Alpine lights, so I removed the sunroof and fittings before I binned the old roof just in case anyone needed one.

It could be coming in through the bulkhead vents, there's a foam seal strip stuck around the inside edge of the moveable vent which seals against a raised lip on the aperture in the bulkhead. After a while they can come unstuck and droop down leaving a gap to let the rain in. Easy enough to check by opening the vent and taking a look at the underside with a small mirror. I had this on mine, I just took the vent covers off and re-glued them with Evostick, been OK ever since.

I think they're pretty straitforward, similar to the other models in terms of pad replacement, the rear discs may be more of an issue with the Electronic Parking Brake to take into account, D3 uses brake shoes in a drum integrated with the rear discs instead of the more familiar transmission brake, but still not a major problem. Take a look over at: - http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic25409.html This might help.

Not certain but I would have thought it's the same as the pre 2002 ones, where you just need to take the dash top off, held down with 3 big self tappers from the top, screen de-mister vents and the heater control cap and grab handle off the ends.

I think as you say its primarily a cusion between the covers but I suspect it also helps to seal around the top of the oil filler to stop oil from getting under the plastic cover when you "miss the hole". Serves no purpose with the plastic cover removed anyway.

Just to add to the above in case it may help someone, I recently repaired a window switch from a Rover 400 which is very similar to the above. After cleaning, the driver side "up" switch was still very intermittent, when I looked a little futher I realised that the fixed contact had erroded to the point where the the brass rocker part was touching the plastic housing before the little "dimple" on on the end of the rocker made contact. To overcome this, I carefully used a centre punch on the back of the "dimple" with the rocker on a bit of wood, this had the effect of increasing the height of the contact and completely cured the problem.

If you're using it to make a speaker baffle (mount,) then MDF is by far the best option from a sound quality perspective, Ply is not so bad either, but the Chequer plate would have some nasty resonances and probably vibrations too and end up sounding cr@p. The only thing is of course - it's a Landy so it will get wet inside and we all know what happens to wood type stuff in the wet. Plus of course, would you hear the difference anyway, (apart from when stationary?)

Funny you should post this today, I've just been admiring someones 90 with extra stop/tail and indicators fitted in the vertical bit of the roof either side of the rear door and thinking about doing the same with mine. They have used the standard lights, two either side, the same ones as already on the rear tub, looks pretty good and not out-of-place I think, as they match the existing lights. (I should have taken a picture!)

Still not sure which yours is but I've just managed to find a 300tdi wiring diagram which shows a seperate "Low fuel level unit", a seperate module driving the lamp directly (white/slate?(grey) to [1]), it appears to have it's own earth connection seperate from the gauge so maybe that is the answer. I couldn't tell you where the module is though, but at a guess it's likely to be close to the instrument panel.

If it's a td5, (I don't know about the others,) the fuel and temp gauges and the speedo share a common earth (black,) they also share a common live feed too (white/green.) The fuel sender unit is connected to the gauge via the low fuel lamp (grn/blk - blk/grn.) So that leaves me a little puzzled as to how the gauge can work normally but the lamp malfunctions?

The easiest way I've found to access the diff lock levers & bits is to remove the centre gearbox cover from inside the car, (edit; as Western said, beat me to it!) just a few self-tappers around the edges to undo and it lifts off. Mind you, being a 1990 motor, you may have some rusty ones to give you a headache.

If they're the later (after 2002) round ones, they just unscrew. The earlier (pre 2002) ones, I think, are moulded on.

No probs, It's an ARB air operated locker, it's helped get me out of the poo a few times since. The compressor comes in handy too.