discomikey

i have a narrow gap axle casing at home, with radius arms to suit IIRC if that helps

(the b***part props are rebranded GKN without the cost markup) i think they also supply rebranded other props, cant remember the name but also a reputable make. props are about the only thing i will have from B***part

wasnt '94 the year they changed to 24 spline diffs? or am i just pondering over nothing again? if so it doesent matter as long as you get a complete axle, or his current one is 24 spline. p.s. how did he manage to SNAP an axle????? that deserves some serious points

have a good look Ander, Thats what i thought at first but it turned out to be the sealant had flaked the paint off, then again, if yours was built on a friday afternoon....

YUM thats what i like to see!

My series has it, obviously dried up and shrunk now, Discovery 1&2 have it, and most if not all defender/90/110's i have seen, or at least taken note of, have had it i would assume that it is a factory fit thing, 90% of the time the rivets are all 100% covered by the sealant

Goodness! i didnt have that problem even when splitting the engine/gearbox from a TE20 that had spent 25 years in a hedge!!! never heard of this before either!

Youre correct Bill, its roughly 478 Miles as the crow flies. We travelled Dover Castle-Lands End-John O Groats again only roughly 1000 miles as the crow flies point to point but being on a 10mph tractor we wound our way through the countrysides on mainly back roads and B roads. Thanks for the congratulations it was one of the best experiences of my life, Have you seen the rebuild and journey Video logs on youtube?

yeah that sounds like a plan although im sure that Si will be able to sort you out even if he doesent handle stock usually. he will probably have test springs lying about etc? p.s. maybe he would be interested in the details of why you need to replace them as it may provide some ideas for his product development. you never know.

make sure the threads on the shaft arent fubar'd too

so will mine (easily) but it was made before they introduced the flux capacitor in 1985

what shocks do you currently have? i know you like to lane so i guess it depends on how much they currently limit you to as to wether it will make a difference.

the only problem is.... Land Rovers never could reach 88mph! so i think the center steer is lost in the past

just found this thread. after over 5 years on this forum, HOW did i not find nige's stories before?

oh yeah, all models 1985 through to 1999 had the flux capacitor fitted

could you not contaxt Si directly? i am of course assuming you mean X-eng X springs. in which case being the owner of the business he would be more able to sort you out than your supplier. p.s. if you are planning on doing much off road, retaining the spring both ends will result in a fair bit less articulation as when past its natural state the spring will be pulling the axle back up again off the ground.

+1 for windy gun, are you using a new nyloc nut or in old LR style the castelated + split pin type?

p.s. just realised you are in new zealand. those are UK prices, and i gather that NZ parts are more expensive by quite a way. it would be definately worth looking up the costs of such things and also things that you know you would replace to help you decide,

theres a kit on that website that looks pretty interesting. id like to see a defender kitted out with it all before i purchased it though!

Answered part of my question there its self adhesive and seems ideal for me! i guess it would withstand a fair amount of heat i just wander as my exhaust comes super close to the footwell.

Is that sandwich stuff self adhesive? And what heat can it stand is what i would like to know.

Ignition and headlight switch -180-200£ indicator stalk similar money. A lot of the little bits such as bulb holders in the dash are all but sourceable, I'm sure there was something else super expensive too. Apart from that i think most parts are available as reproduction parts. the pork pie lights are the rare and expensive tail light assemblies which were originally fitted. Its a plus to have them with the vehicle for sure. hope this helps

I wouldn't say neccisarily run new wiring, just do some continuity and resistance checks on the related bulb holder earth tab and a shiny metal point on the chassis or body. There should be very little to no resistance. then regardless of how.good the resistance is, get some.emery tape and clean all earth wire terminals and the point on the body or chassis.

apparently he was wearing his PPE, but ran out of bubblewrap for his head too... glad to hear he has avoided permanent damage though!

Ahh Malta, a nice place. The GF's dad lives out in Gozo, so i am familiar with the terrain and size of the islands etc. it is a case of preference. i personally do a lot of motorway miles, and long distance journeys, so less RPM at speed (to a certain extent) is better for me. i have only ever had one problem with the gearbox where i deem it to be the engine torque as the primary cause. the layshaft lost a few teeth on third gear. i do however believe that this was caused by non mechanical sympathy. i let my friend drive and he was snatch changing seeing how fast it would go and before i could tell him thats not the way to do it wiht a series box, in fact it doesent make it go any faster anyway... but hey ho. the only other gearbox rebuild was because the layshaft bearings started grumbling, which at 90,000+ miles on the clock and when i rescued it the box did have some nasty fluid in it. i deemed that general wear and tear.