Chicken Drumstick

Yeah I can do it for new posts. Just can’t seem to get it o work in the op. Not without cutting and reinserting each url. Which on a phone is too laborious.

So Jeep have recently launched their new JL Wrangler in the US. And according to Jeep UK we should be getting it in 2019.The JL looks to be an evolutionary update of the JK, although the JK was a clean sheet design in 2005/6.The JL clearly shows that there is indeed a market for a proper ladder chassis, live axle 4x4 off roader. And that it can be built to a modern comfort and safety level, without compromising the appeal and ability of the vehicle.Clearly the Wrangler is aimed at the recreation market rather than utility. Although with such a design it's a fairly thin distinction on the differences and mostly comes down to spec and how the body is configured.However it does clearly demonstrate that if Land Rover want to step upto the plate (and I can't understand why they wouldn't want too), a new modern 21st Cent Defender is fully possible, without being a blinged up over complicated posing machine.As for the Jeep. It comes in a mix of SWB (96.9") 3 door and LWB (118.4") 5 door sizes, with an array of roof spec combinations. And US prices starting at $27k (likely to be raped by Jeep UK when it arrives here sadly and with less spec )Dana 35 and 44 axles depending on model and spec. 33" tyres stock and lots of options including front & rear lockers, electronically detachable anti roll bars and a super low low range. As well as a host of electronic wizardry in the way of Hill Descent Control and TCS.Engines look to be a 285hp 3.6 V8 with either a 6 speed manual or 8 speed auto. As well as a 2.0 litre petrol turbo and a 3.0 V6 diesel on the way.Many of the past Jeep features remain, such as folding windscreen and removable doors and roof. Some now made lighter with aluminium, making them eaiser to remove or fold down.https://i.ytimg.com/vi/-YBe_8hYS98/maxresdefault.jpg https://www.jeep.com/content/dam/fca-brands/na/jeep/en_us/2018/wrangler-jl/vlp-jl/gallery/2018-Jeep-Wrangler-JL-VLP-Gallery-Sahra-Interior.jpg.image.1440.jpghttps://medias.fcacanada.ca//sites/brand/jeep/images/menu-image-wrangler-jl_22e170058a4040ca5843772418391f90-retina.jpgModified 4 door to make a lwb 2 door, looks pretty slick.https://www.dynatrac.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/DSC_8967-1024x684.jpg Give up. Don’t know how to get the images to embed. It didn’t auto embed them. And IMG tags don’t seem to work. I’m on my iPhone so can’t hover over the icons on the editor to see if anything there would help.

Guess we will have to agree to disagree then. I find Series boxes quite nice to shift. You can’t rush them. But they have a nice smooth positive lever action. That “snicks” into the gate reassuringly. An LT95 feels much like the LT85 to shift. Slow long shifter travel. But much less positive feeling and more like waggling a stick about in a cardboard box.

Can’t really comment further on the fuel pump. Just be aware the Td5 while a lovely engine. Is a fair chunk heavier than a V8. For trials use expect rear wheels in the air a bit more on steep descents.

What V8 and what power? Plenty of bods running 3.5’s and even 3.9’s on twin SU setups and stock Series boxes. Not the most powerful V8 setups. LT95 is certainly stronger. Although arguably not as nice to drive or shift. It should fit. I know of a couple of coiler 88 trials vehicles running V8’s and LT95’s without binding issues. As for parabolics. Not sure on the makes these days. Given the choice and money I’d go for Heystee. But they are pricey and often have weird production runs when I was trying to buy. Rocky Mountain spares are essentially a copy of the Heystee spring. But some claim built cheaper. I went for these myself as Heystee couldn’t supply what I was after at the time. For off road use I’d recommend getting some 2 leaf springs. Many of the other makes only offer 3 and 4 leaf parabolics. Which IMO are way too stiff for proper axle twisting off road action. Although will work better for towing and hauling or carrying people in the back. This is my 88. Runs a 200Tdi with stock location rad panel. Stock Series gearbox. Rocky Mountain 2 leaf rear parabolics. The front is a little more custom as I’m running a rear leaf spring (they are 12” longer than stock front ones ). Running a 3 leaf parabolic on the front (unsure of make sourced from Paddocks). Has p38 PAS and extra long Rough Country shocks with custom upper shock mounts and revised lower rear mounts. Its running stock axles although currently 3.54 diffs and drum brakes. With stock 88 prop shafts. You can get a bit of rear axle hop if you are unforgiving with the throttle off road. I’ve toyed with making an anti tramp bar. But tbh it’s not really bad enough for most use. It gets used for green laning as well as setting up RTV trials events.

Happy for any recommendations. Generators aren’t really my think. So just started at machine mart for looking. I notice some are rated in kw while others are rated in kva. Not sure how these really compare apart form making it harder to compare to each other. I’ll have to try and find some info on my compressor. Suspect it might be difficult as it’s oretty old. I know it has a plaque on it with a 4 digit telephone number or similar. But tbh it’s a really good compressor and does all I want from one.

I’d like to get a generator to have some power down at my unit. But I’m a little lost on what I’ll need. I’d like to run a compressor off of it. And maybe the odd power tool such as a grinder, drill etc and some lighting (most likely led). But not necessarily all of these at once. I’m not sure what kind of power rating I’ll need. Is something like this likely to be stout enough: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-pg2500-22kva-petrol-generator/

I don’t really get the internet hate on the TD engines tbh. My uncle has two of them. One on 250,000 - 280,000 miles and the other nearer the 200,000 mark. Neither one has had any major engine issues. I don’t know the specs well enough but is the Nad and TD the same compression ratio? If not. Then a TD with the turbo removed is likely to perform worse than a normal Nad. Not sure I understand the reference to Tdi and 11 points. But willing to consider displacement increases and performance cylinder heads???

I’m rather liking the new convertible Evoque. Although I’ll probably have to wait a few years, say 10. Before they are in my price range. But they sort of appeal for some mild green lane use with the roof down. But then I do love open top motoring and having something able to seat more than 2 people and drop the roof at a push of a button had a whole heap of appeal on or off road.

I can’t see why not. But tbh I’d have to ask why. I know there is no replacement for displacement. But the Nad makes so little power anyway a .3 litre increase in displacement isn’t going to offer much other than a lighter wallet. At a guess the displacement increase would buy you maybe 8hp.

It does indeed depend on which rims specifically. Not sure what is available today. But this is what I compiled from a few years ago.

Can't say I agree with this. There are plenty of perfectly fine usable used engines. In fact almost all used cars have used engines in them. And you don't have to rebuild a used car to make it usable. Yes you may take a chance and might need some luck. But the reality is, not everyone is out to get you or trying to flog a dud. We've bought 3 used 200Tdi's and a couple of RV8's. So far all have been perfectly fine and not required rebuilding at all.

Tyre height and construction also play a part in recommended wheel widths, not just the tread. As per the link above, BFG say a 6.5 inch rim is perfectly fine with a 255/85. 16x7 doesn't automatically mean worse offset either vs 16x8, stock LR alloys just don't tend to stick out much. But some steel rims can, you just need to know the ET of them.

BFG specs are on their website (UK site is rubbish, use the US one). https://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire/bf-goodrich/mud-terrain-t-a-km2 Rim width 6.5 - 8"

Nice tyre size. Still fairly narrow but should be a real world 33” tall. Sadly not many tyre makers offer this size. You can get similar diameter in other sizes. But all end up being a lot wider. An 8.25 x 16 (size up from a 7.50) is pretty similar dimension wise. But even rarer! If you aren’t in a hurry I’d hold tight for the KM3 BFG. Suspect they will still offer it in a 255/85. A 33.10.50 is also similar size. And you sometimes see this (think BFG might offer it actually). But is more normally found on a 15 rim rather than 16. But pretty rare too in either instance. The 33 also tends to come out a little shorter as a rule too.

What is your budget and intended use? And will you be doing the work? To be fair the old 2.5TD really isn’t a bad engine and should cruise at 60-65mph all day long. Running 5mph quicker really will make sod all difference to journey times. Tdi engines are more powerful and will cruise at the same sort of speeds happily and hold better on hills. But stock gearing means it’ll be the same rpm. So you are unlikely to actually be traveling any quicker. The Tdi engines are more powerful and pretty good on fuel too. But are less refined and more nosy than the older TD. The 200 isn’t he was easiest swap. In fact it’s about as easy as engine swaps get tbh. But be warned. It will still take many hours and probably more money than you think it will. And despite loads of people having done this (we’ve done two. One in a 90 and one in an 88). There will always be things to fabricate and solve, even above and beyond the various adaption kits you can buy. The 200Tdi might be older than the 300tdi. But I don’t really think they are much if any harder to find in the U.K. there are still friggin loads of them. And the 300 is hardly any younger. A 300Tdi makes identical power to a 200 as well. It does run a serp belt. But pretty much all the changes between the two engines were to make the 300 cheaper to produce. The 300 however is a reasonable chunk more effort to fit. Td5’s are very good engines. But will be a step up in price to use. The mechanical fitment is no more complex than the 300. But comes with a host of electronics that will need installing. V8’s another good choice. Can go carb or efi. Again similar work to a 300 to fit. And lastly the 2.0 litre Mpi engine. As used in the Discovery. The engine is also found in many Rover cars. 2.0 litre petrol 16v. Nice engine and faster and more powerful than a Tdi. Although being non turbo and higher revving is more suited to road use than off road or towing when compared to a V8 or diesel turbo.

Do you think you’d be too wide to stay on the drive line for places like this? [• Tight enough you couldn’t really open the doors to get out.

That sounds pretty wide. Also suspect you may end up tearing up fresh ground if you are running where others haven’t due to your track. Ive been on some fairly tight Welsh lanes. One had a gate that touched both sides of my Disco. Albeit aftermarket wheel arches to cover wider tyres. Have also been on some lanes with deep tramlines on a track running lower than the adjacent ground. Wider track than a stock coiler and I suspect you’d have had some issues.

A YJ is a much narrower Vehcile than an RRC though.

The rim outer location will vary depending on the offset more than just the width. And this won’t necessarily alter the outer edge location of the tyre itself.

The issue you’ll face is a 12.5 width tyre on its own is going to stick outside the arches. Any spacer will make this worse. And in the U.K. to remain legal you need to keep the tyres inside the arches.

I think dangerous might be stretching the truth a little. But yes is normally just beyond what is ‘recommended’ by tyre manufacturers. That said, a 15x8 vs 15x10 is going to have little overall difference on the steering or how much the tyres stick out of the arches. The tyre tread will still be the same width.

The kingpin diamonds are a little worn. But not over than inch of tread worn. It’s just a shorter tyre despite being labelled as a 7.50. Interestingly the diamonds are still about an inch taller Fedima Partners in 7.50 x 16.

Agree. This is what I’ve been after too. Kicking myself for not buying the Flatdog ones when they had them listed.

Don’t know if you’ve solved this yet. But as you are mounting a different body on the chassis it gives opportunity to effectively perform a body lift when you locate the bulkhead and other body mounts. That way you won’t need to go as tall on the suspension lift. I too would like some +4” soft springs. Flatdog in the U.K. used to list them but don’t know.