Chicken Drumstick

Was trying to help you out. As you could have found the answer in maybe 90 seconds of Googling, rather than having to wait hours for a reply on a forum. For the record, which is also mostly why I answered they way I did. You basically asked would a standard fitment tyre for a Defender fit a standard fitment sized rim...

You can work out ET pretty easily, you just need a basic understanding of how it works. ET it the distance from the centreline of the tyre to the naive plate where the nuts go. The ET will be positive or negative, depending on if it's making the track wider or narrower. Loads of websites that will let you visualise this. Here are some examples to help you out:

The MoT and construction and use regs are not the same thing. For instance, if you attached something like a sword to the front of your vehicle, there is nothing in the MoT to fail it. But it would most certainly be illegal.

Pretty sure it'll be the same in N. Ireland, wheels sticking out of the arches are illegal and against Construction & Use Regulations.

Rim size doesn't matter for arch fitment. What size tyres are they? I have seen 15" rims for sale for a p38a/D2, so I assume they must fit, else it would be an odd thing to sell. That said, the PCD for a p38a/D2 is not the same as a Defender, RRC, D1. So make sure you have the right rims. I'm not sure, but I think the D2 and p38a also have different centre bore sizes.

I think I may have stumbled across it by accident last night. I don't mind using a shackle, I just want to stop breaking diffs really... People are telling me to ditch the parabolics and run standard springs! But I'm not quite ready to throw the towel in just yet on the parabolics. I like they way they flex and ride on the road. I've also read about larger spring perches can reduce axle wrap, but the anti tramp bar seems to be a more thorough solution to my mind. Ages back I'm sure I saw a DIY kit for a Suzuki on a Suzuki site, long before I ever thought I'd need one. But I'll be buggered if I can find that site now.

I'm all for HIDs and good headlights, but where you really getting a good beam cut off and not blinding oncoming vehicles with HIDs in Disco 1 reflector housings? I'd be amazed if you were. The HID beam angle and light source is in the different place to a halogen bulb and Disco headlights do not use scatter shields. If your headlights did have good cut off and weren't dazzling other cars, then I'm happy to help you out. But if you didn't check or worse didn't care, then I can offer no advice other than to say, don't fit HIDs to unsuitable headlights. As it's potentially dangerous or at the very least rather anti social and lack of care for other motorists.

So I broke another 3.54:1 rear diff at the weekend. Wasn't doing anything silly, but I think the issue might be axle wrapping. The rear axle that is. Looking at options I think an anti wrap or anti tramp bar is probably the preferred solution, as I like the way my Series is going in all other aspects. I did a bit of searching and did find some topics on here, although the most recent was 2013. Just wondering how you guys are getting on with your chosen solution? Would you still do it the same given the choice or something else? Any pics or designs would be grateful. Thus far, my first thought was some kind of radius bar type thing attached to near the top of the diff. To stop the diff nose twisting down when trying to move forward. I've found these images online, which seem somewhat to be a similar idea. Although they have a shackle to lengthen the bar as the axle drops. And are connected to the axle tube above and below, presumably to prevent the diff nose lifting as well as dropping. i.e. axle wrap when going forwards or reversing. QUESTION: I'm not so fussed about axle wrap when reversing. It's more when doing hill climbs, to stop the nose of the diff dropping. If I fitted something similar to the above, but only attached it to the top of the axle, it should in theory still work shouldn't it? Browsing Google I also spied this: Could you potentially use some coiler trailer arms for this purpose? My confusion comes from the fact the designs above extend using the shackle as the axle drops. How would a fixed radius arm cope with this? On a coiler, does the axle move differently and not back and forth as much as it does with leaf springs?

Or you could have tried Googling it.....

I agree with your last comments fully. Just wanted to explore options. I do quite like the idea of a Salisbury rear, but I'm not going to pay silly for one. As for the ALRC rule. Currently/previously they have two classes; Standard & Modified. In both of these classes you can replace all the axle internals with uprated stronger parts on a direct like for like basis. And run any diff ratio, not just LR factory ones. So Ashcroft CV's, shafts and CW&P are already run by many and have been for years. You can even fit diff lockers, but in these classes you can't use them for competition, which means air or solenoid activated ones, rather than a detroit style. As when deactivated a locker is just an open diff. But you can't run an ATB diff centre, as LR didn't offer them. But using D2/p38 or long/short nose diffs and switching and swapping bits is perfectly acceptable and within the rules. And for CCV's and comps completely common and normal. Q class is a new class (official start date Jan 2017) that is a level up from modified, so you can run pretty much anything, including lockers for competition use and ATB's. The only restriction is, as it's a one make club they want the major item to remain Land Rover based. So you can't swap on Unimog axles or complete Toyota, GM or Ford axles. In essence this means you can swap the internal bits about as much as you like.

Note the slightly warmer glow nearer to the vehicle. That's the halogens from the X-Lites. My plan is to actually point them to the sides a bit more, to light up the hedges/verge when cornering or when off road. X-Lites bulbs can be had in spot or flood beam patterns. But being only 50 watt and physically small, they will only ever be medium range lights. If you have stock halogen headlights with 55/65w H4 bulbs in, then a pair or two of the X-Lites are well worth the money. They won't shine any further than main beam does really, but they will increase the amount of light in front of you. X-Lites can also be bought for fitting flush to a roll cage, so make a low profile roof mount option. Or in flood mode even a handy reversing light option or work light. If you want a long distance beam, then you'll need a physically large lamp and reflector. My advice would be, don't fit X-Lites for the ultimate in light output, you'll be disappointed. But for compact tough rugged lights they perform very well. And are well priced too. About £60/pair including bulbs. http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=65_1760 If you off road a lot, they are likely to take a knock and keep working.

Even being sympathetic can result in breakages. And as a rule it only works in hindsight rather then when you are stuck or trying to drive somewhere. Not really sure I follow your last comment??? Can you explain it, or have you misunderstood something. Never once mentioned anything about a standard class of any sort.

X-Lites are little aluminium lights made by Simon at E-Engineering. They are little lamps on the bumper in front of the number plate. They use household push in 50watt halogens. They a nice tough little lights, so good if they are to be mounted where they might take a knock or two. But their size limits their output a bit compared to some other offerings.

Just trying to look at costings vs gains really. I have nothing against going for Ashcroft stuff, they are local to me. But having a quick look, a front setup would be just over £2000 and I think I'd still need stub axles too. Suspect a rear would be similar money. Anyway, you are looking at £3500-4000 in parts alone for a full Ashcroft setup.

Standard LR rims are 16" you won't be running 15" tyres on them. If you are in N. America, then I'm not 100% sure rims were used for the 15" factory option. Think they might have been a Wella multi spoke rim of some kind.

I'm not familiar with those lights myself. The big issue is, the higher output LED bulbs all have fans on the back of them. I doubt they'll fit in the spot lamp casings. So unless you plan to cut a hole in the back of them, there probably isn't a direct easy fit replacement. Also with the LED bulbs, there is huge variance in output and quality. And all of them are cool white with poor CRI for the most part. If you want to buy LED bulbs you really need to go and read up a little on LEDs, so that you can know an Cree MK-R from a COB LED. Different types of LEDs put out different amounts of lumens, they also vary in surface brightness and beam angle. Which can all affect how well or badly they may work in a halogen reflector. If you are into modding, then you could in theory fab up a heat sink and mount a good LED on it, and add a driver. Much in the same way people mod torches and the like. But it will be a fair bit of effort to do. Some companies like KC Hilites do offer LED upgrades, basically you only keep the backing dish and replace everything else. But they ain't cheap. Another option you might want to consider is a HID upgrade. Just buy a reasonable 35w HID kit off ebay (£30 maybe) and the bulb should fit. Then remote mount the ballasts and off you go. Biggest benefit here is, you can buy 4300k with much better CRI. I do like LED technology, but for automotive use, in the aftermarket, it's lagging several years behind what is available in other markets. The HIDs will work fine, when you first turn them on you obviously have a warm up period, but it's not as bad as you'd think. If you then go dip and back to mainbeam, they seem to come on straight away once you've used them once. I'm running LED headlights, halogens in the X-Lites (currently working on an LED upgrade for these), and the 3 big spots all run 35w HIDs in them. This photo is with only the centre HID and X-Lites running. It's even brighter with all 3 HIDs running.

Thanks for the info and ideas. Need to go and do some reading I think. Re: D2 axles. Are they actually any stronger? I've certainly seen stock D2's break them at trials. And I was under the impression the diff really isn't all that different. And I didn't know they are wider track than a regular coiler axle. Anyone have any figures on this? Are the tubes and shafts longer, or is it all in the hub assembly?

265/75R16 is standard fitment on late Defenders. A 31.10.50R15 should fit right on no probs. But will depend on the rim width and offset. You usually run a 15x8 rim for them, but you could go to a 15x10. If it has a deep dish offset, then they 'could' stick out, but it isn't normally an issue. This is on 31.10.50's

They are a nice chunky looking tyre. Standard fitment on many Jeeps and were the size LR used for some models in the US, as 16" off road tyres are (or were) quite rare over there. They will be a similar width to a 265, but maybe a little wider in practice. Height wise, most 31.10.50's will normally come in at 29-30" against the tape measure. For example a BFG AT 31.10.50R15 is 30.5" tall. While a 265/75R16 in the same tread is 31.6" tall.

BFG say 6.0" rim for a 235/85R16.

What options are there for different diff centres and ratio's on the Salisbury's? Does anyone do an ATB for them and something around the 4.10:1 final drive?

So, partly a vapour project at the moment, but likely to be put into effect at some point. What are the current ideas of getting stronger axles on a Land Rover? I do have one restriction... they somehow need to remain "Land Rover"... will explain more in a bit. But this means Mog axles or the like are sadly not an option. 1. There is obviously the Ashcroft (or similar) route of beefing up the old Rover axle. But lets be frank, this is not a cheap route and you can only get them so strong. 2. I've heard about putting Toyota internals inside a Rover axle casing, but I don't know the details or how easy it really is. Nor how good the end result might be. 3. Well that's were I'm a little stuck... Now the restriction is, I do like to play with the ALRC as one of my off road pursuits. And even their new Q class still says Land Rover axles. So as long as they look Land Rover from the outside I think I'll be fine (would like to keep this topic about axles, not the ALRC however ). Keeping a Land Rover hub pattern and PCD would be of benefit too, as I have access to lots of sets of wheels and rims. My only other thought was something Salisbury. A One Ten rear would be the correct track for a coiler. I know it's drum, but I'm sure I've seen people convert them to disc. Now I'll be honest and say I don't know a huge amount about the Salisbury, i.e. where it's weak parts are. I do know that they are somewhat of a copy of a Dana 60... so this is where I'm thinking. If I managed to get hold of a Dana 60 front axle from a full size Ford or Chevy truck from the US. How easy would it be to use on a Land Rover? I know there have been loads of different variants. But a Salisbury would easily meet the 'Land Rover' bit and offer a strong axle. I know in the US guys happily run 42" tyres and lockers with the Dana60's no problem. So what would be needed to build a set of good-to-awesome Salisbury/Dana 60 axles for a coiler Land Rover? Or any other ideas on some strong axle setups.

So how about the static belts I mentioned then? Should be exactly what you want, and just fit them instead of your inertia belts.

Ta, then a stock D1 must be fine.

Not all cars/vehicles come with mud flaps though, so I'd be surprised if they are actually mandated and ignored by car makers.