muddy

Have you calculated the ratio change required to run it mechanically to make sure it can be packaged? A small feeder wagon gearbox might do? comer make many gearboxs.

Apologies the CTEK is a 12v 25a

Good evening, my forklift with a 750AH ish 48V lead acid is now having to be charged about twice a day, I have a CTEK 25A charger that i would like to try the reconditioning cycle on, I think I already know the answer but do I need to unbolt the cells the make 4x 12v batterys and try the cycle from there? I guess if I just wanted to charge I could simply 'jump' and two 6V cells but the recondition cycle would more than likely be upset by this. Lastly and particular idea why I shouldn't do this? The battery has the easy oil water system that is used every charge and was working over the last few years so I don't think I have a dry cell as such although I will obviously check this when I pull the box to do a 'manual' charge. Hopefully that all makes sense....

Nothing much to add other than unless you are going to be making funky steel lines ultra compact is very difficult with flexible hoses, maybe go @Daan style and start hunting round for those nooks and crevices to house a small oil tank, a 1-11/2" feed hose will hold a good amount of Oil.

I have recently acquired this ground anchor however as you might be able to tell its missing a rather crucial part! As I don't have one to copy does anyone have a suggested size for a new blade? It doesn't really need to be super light although it would be handy if I can carry it on the moor without sinking up to my knackers.

Mrs is desperate for some there was one very friendly calf I thought she was going to pick up and put on the back seat at one point 😄

Yes we did the round tour, some lovely sights. Some big kit on the pipeline on the East Wouldn't like to think what that cost Dodge on Skye Cruiser was pulling hard on the hills but im sure it would get you anywhere eventually Well worn winch in whaligoe bay This 90 was absolutely immaculate fully undersealed, it could have been out of the factory a week, a stark contrast to most of the other defenders we saw. Moo Coow near Applecross.

That’s a baby mog this passed me last week 😎

Yes I had a pair of jacking beams that I made some adaptors to jack level around the diff. The ones I have used had both beams sliding so you could put both to one side to get them out the way if needed, I can see how a fixed beam would/could be a pain.

I really like Pits, they are cheap (especialy if already installed) IMHO all pits should have a sump and a pump anyway and this takes care of any water ingress issues. Despite what many people say unless you spill a gallon of thinners down it and start welding or do a 45 minute engine warm up with the garage doors shut you are highly unlikely to have any issues. As for getting trapped down them i'd put that into the same catagory of people who use a jack without an Axle stand and then complain that its crushed their leg a little for thought goes a long way. I used a workshop with limited headroom and that had a full size 4 poster over a shallow pit, you could have a defender at a comfortable height to work on the breaks but go into the pit and stand underneath. You can also hoard store wheels and tyres down them. Just my 2p, if I had the choice of anything a full height 4 poster with wheels free is as good as it gets for land rovers I think.

Yes I mean somewhere near to standard like ross says infant of the axle however stuck up into the wheebox area, much easier to box in in the tub and still leaves the middle open to use (assuming the rear cage stays also go through the wheelboxs.) Its also watching the shocker body doesn't clash with the chassis side on full droop this is why the bottom needs to be fairly outboard.

Hard to judge from the pictures but can a shock not fit where the white line is in the picture? The bottom mounts would need to be inline or outboard of the trailing arm mounts in would say. Please excuse the horrendous picture.

I can’t see how the hole in the spring seat allows enough deflection movement of the shock body side to side with 14” of travel and plus you need to re think the re location cones. perhaps take the shocks off, cycle the suspension until the wheels/tyres touch or the arms max out and then offer up the shock/brush shaft cut to length in various places to see how it fits. If you arnt changing your wheel offset (and this is what is the binding point) I think tipping the top of the shocks in slightly is going to be the best compromise. If the build criteria is ‘lightweight silhouette’ and ‘fits through a field gate’ you might have to compramise with 12” of travel. Just my 2p as an opinion to stop this turning too ‘WillWarne’ like

@Stellaghost these drops are far better than the cream, I complained about the cream when I went back for the last bits removing and the guy agreed it was carp and prescribed this. Made a big difference I would highly recommend. Now have some ski mask style safety goggles for when I think the safety squint might not be enough.

I think we are trying to reinvent the wheel here, from this preliminary cycling travel looks ample and if this vehicle can't deform/deflect bushes there's no hope for the rest of us! Feel for you with the eye I did nearly a week with bits of paint in last year and I was climbing the walls.

Whilst the risk of solder fracturing is there I would say in practise the risk is minimal and the benefits far outweigh the negatives, what I would say is buy some 3:1 ratio adesive lined heat shrink this will make a big difference to the longevity of the joint. Not sure which way you were pulling but the loom goes in at the back and out the front when installing opposite for removal. Its usually best to cut the back as there's enough spare to pull out and make up a new rear loom or at least up to the RH tail lights.

Quite the achievement to have a back window that small and still obscure it. Nice filler work on the rear quarters too.

I think Britpart is pretty good to be honest if you don't just buy the cheapest thing then id say the quality is far better than it used to be. You want to try some of the stuff for normal vehicles the motor factors send out its just like the old days of Britpart.

Milwaukee Packout. Look up bigredpowertools.co.uk

I may be talking absolute rubbish so I would cycle the suspension asap before doing anything rash, it just seems a shame to make brackets if they are wrong. I think if the top of the rear shock is inline with the outside of the chassis rail it should be about right.

I think your shocks need to be well inboard at the top? Found these old pictures of my 90 and as Daan pointed out at the time I had/have negative shock clearance (or some other fancy phrase!) The front tyres would actually rotate the shock body as you moved in that situation and as you can see the back is even worse although due to the top of the rear shocks being more inboard this wasn't an issue. You can see how offset the wheels are from the disc position, I could change the pads without taking the wheel off. Could you bolt your brackets as they are but to the inside of the chassis rail?

Looks good, check the tyre doesn't rub the resovoir area when the other side is full droop and full left lock.

There are only two sizes of HCPU tub 110 and 127/130 (both actually 127' wheelbase) Both tubs are the same size from the wheel arch backwards just 110 ones have an extra 9" in the front IIRC.

Id say 3-6mm depending how rocky your terrain is. I had to weld my chassis bottoms up at least once a year do to peeling them open on rocks or replacing bits of trailing arm ears where they had bent up badly, it doesn't need to survive a landmine and it doesn't matter if it dents its just to stop you smashing the bottom to bits by catching it on stuff, @miketomcat didnt you once smash a PTO drop box off? Two plain hinges at the front (20mm? bar?) and a M16 on each side just infront of the rear arms would make it hinge down to wash out. This all depends entirely on how rough you intend to be I completely understand but I think Sid is likely to see more abuse than Mikes ibex or Eds 110 for example?

Might I suggest a belly plate from the new x member covering the bottom of the chassis rails and the trailing arm ears.