muddy

Might be worth contacting optimil to see if they can help or point you in the right direction.

Unless you have the vehicle raised a good 2' or so you won't get the transmission under the chassis rails anyway as has been said. Trolley jack works pretty well or even a flat plate or larger cup/cross thingy in the end of one if you want to be posh. I'm not sure on the V8 but won't you need the tunnel and floor plates out to release the bell housing bolts anyway? Most clutch jobs are just hateful and often easier and quicker when you just get stuck in and rip anything in your way out! For a one off job a mate and some weetabix are probably your best solution, and a decent clutch alignment tool!

574 is the orange one (monkey spunk) we call it.

I use loctite 574

Personally I would fit larger tyres and stick with a 1.4 unless you do a lot of motorway miles where a '6th' gear will quieten the job down but even then I've not driven many defenders that will pull higher gearing on motorway inclines well. (and I've driven quite a lot) Short gearing especially in a 90 is very much a part of the driving experience and charm for me.

You must be stiring it the wrong way.

Some early 110s had the LT95 in them, the 101 version of the LT95 has a shorter bell housing. AFAIK all V8 boxes have the same pattern. I would stick with the LT85 as the wider range of gears and available transfer box ratios will allow you to tweak the gearing to suit far more easily, the LT77 doesn't suffer too well with the Mazdas either.

I have some s/h front and rear callipers you can have if you fancy a go at refurbishing some.

yes seat box lid off, tunnel out, I have slid them back on the crossmember before today. Obviously if you have lots of matting, wiring and a small DJ setup fastened to the seatbox then pulling the engine is possibly less work as long as you can easily access all the bell housing bolts.

pull the slave out and squirt some grease/oil on the end of the push rod. Worth a try to save pulling big lumps. I personally find it much quicker to drop the gearbox than start pulling engines but each the their own and that im sure you find as many for and against each method.

I'd sell it. I have sold quite a few land rovers and projects, yes at one time or another I've thought I wish I hadn't but then you remember that without selling one I wouldn't have the next, and each one was bit better than the last. I've about 5 land rovers at the moment and not one is one the road, that is far more depressing than the total 'regret' I have from selling. If it was in lovely condition and perfectly useable and you did use it I would keep hold but that doesn't sound like the reality and weeks soon turn into years with the roundtoit card.

You know its only a 2.5tonner?!?!

They won't be long enough. I would suggest buying some longer ones from Llama4x4 to do this correctly.

'scumbling' can be used to make wood effect steel, some vintage wagon restores use it on the inside of cab roofs.

I also have Flexi hoses direct to the calliper front and back. HGV direct did have a easy bleed pump cheap last month might be worth a call to a local one. I bought AP vented callipers and popped the pistons out and put stainless ones in, quick and simple with no messing with seals last time when I wanted to upgrade to vented callipers.

Fuel card company has emailed me today saying expect a 20ppl increase from Sunday night. Im not looking forward to the coming months.

A little late to the party but these are mine

Needs must sometimes! The great thing about the Milwaukee and I guess most other battery grinders? is the auto stop so if the worst does start to happen you just jam your (gloved!) hand in there or preferably ram it into the workpiece and its stops instantly. I have put a Stihl saw blade in it before today but I have a wire brush attachment for a strimmer I think that's the most exciting thing!

Buy the Milwaukee 4 1/2", Make sure you always buy the 'Fuel' version of their tools as these are the better brushless ones. Do not click if you don't want to spend money I recently bought a Milwaukee laser lever from here, good price and quick delivery. Edit: there are two types of switch, a bottom paddle and a conventional locking slide, I prefer the slide as I don't run a guard and sometimes put 9" discs in it, also easier when you put it on its back for sharpening drill bits.

Can only echo most of above, Disco drop arm, HD steering bars and a front diff guard, Clamp on will be fine just slather the diff pan with waxoyl. I also run the Gwyn Lewis track rod protector and I really like it, id buy another in a heartbeat. Have the above on my 90 used for very aggressive RTVs and never suffered any steering component failure. Ive torn the bottom of the chassis open multiple times, completely re shaped the trailing arm mounts also but never actually pulled anything off or felt the need for skid plates extra bash guards act. As has also been said a properly waterproof snorkel and breather set up is important, crawling round underneath sniffing water/gearoil grey paste soon loses its appeal.

Try tow starting it, you should be able to increase rpms sufficiently with a decent wheel speed.

Handy for making electric fan shrouds.

A new workmate?

M6 stainless Nutserts with flange head were £16/hundred last time I bought some in September. drilling and tapping stainless bar is a ball ache unless its already drilled and tapped? Stainless bolts and plenty of coppaslip and I cannot imagine you having a problem especially if you are taking it out once a year. getting there right nutsert for the gauge of sheet also helps avoid that spinning feeling.

Nice work, getting wheels to run true is not easy! Drill the holes for the TR15 valves as most tubes that size only have the fat stem. Also you can then use bolt in valves if going tubeless.