Blanco

... just on that one , I bought some oak trunks from and ended up at lunch with a wonderful old farmer in France a few years back, he went travelling in the African desert every winter even in his mid 80's, he was extolling the virtues of lowering the tyre pressure to maintain traction and he offered to reduce the pressure in his tractor tyre and drive over my head ! I declined the offer and I still wouldn't like to try it, but the point was made, might be easier on toes or any other extremities in soft sand though!

Well it has been a while but I finally put this job to bed yesterday, car is back together, door is sorted, carpet dried out and put back and the seat too (Huge difference it makes to my back and legs sitting square on , ....best result of the lot) Some things had to come out and go back twice (or thrice) due to forgetting what went where/when/how but I think it would bother me less now to pull it all out again. There were some practical delays caused by the contractor coming back to spray foam the roof. One aspect of the job which upsets me is although I have managed to get it all back in and looking tidy is that previous 'mechanics' working on the dash have managed to break, crack, or split the plastic at almost every fixing location, a good proportion of the fixings were missing and I found most of those once everything was out. The plastic does seem to suffer (more than most?) with age but clearly it wasn't helped by the apparently hurried rip out and re-assembly last time round. Still SORN'ed so going to attack the EAS next, ................ but not till after I finish the en-suite shower.

2cx at a sensible price is a great machine, I couldn't find one worth having and ended up with a KX71 back in the day, which we trailed about the place on an IW 3.5t slightly overweight but we were careful ( and lucky I guess). The JCB is always at a disadvantage to a 360deg machine trenching but scores big when it comes to the front bucket and moving/loading stuff. Having both is the dream solution. Nowadays in a modern bungalow the only digging in evidence is next doors terrier and occasionally the rabbits🐇

Much better, ... I put a pair on my old 110, (shoulda kept it!) saved most of the grief👍

FWIW, just checked the RRC up to 85 page and it is near identical, only difference I can see is a different number for the bump stop bolt.

I thought when I saw the title it was the old starter motor trouble, but reading the post its not that..... best thing is to start with diesel engine basics and make sure of your fuel filter (you have checked all the levels I presume?). Also there is a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel cooler that can leak, if the fpr was leaking badly I guess fuel pressure could have caused the issue you had. Both are relatively cheap DIY fixes though quite fiddly and tricky the first time you do them, there are a couple of D2 specialists on here who may read more into your symptoms but my advice would be to check for those leaks first, google is your friend here, http://discovery2.co.uk/ is an excellent site if you are new to D2 ownership, and look out for http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/ as well as this excellent forum here. Welcome ,... HTSH

Shackleton on here experimented with the low temp soldering on aluminium, didn't seem too difficult, might be worth having a play? make the pieces individually out of 20mm flat bar and solder them up after??

.... fairly certain its roughly 9ft 2ins in old money, for the axle centres think mine was about 15ft overall.

Book symbol just means something is logging a fault, plugging in a testbook or Nanocom would tell you what, if everything is working though or working well enough I certainly wouldn't rush to tear it all out again.

Well I found some Valeo blend motors on fleabay new at Britpart money and they turned up yesterday,... Good news and bad news...... The Good news is that they work perfectly, the book symbol has retired and the HEVAC panel is looking good The bad news is that when I started the engine to check the coolant leak, it still soaked the footwell, so back to square one there, ...

Classic TV, .... I remember the Carling Black Label adverts particularly, I suppose about the same period ? Nice floor, I wish I had done mine while it was clean.

We can't see from the picture you posted, but if the lateral bar goes the full width then that would be conclusive. We look forward to seeing a bit more of it.

Welcome.. I would say the first thing is that the ACE system doesn't really look like an anti-roll bar anyway, so if it has a full length bar with return ends and drop links then it has had a D2 anti-roll or sway bar fitted. Not sure how the trans-Atlantic market was but not all Europe market disco's had the system anyway, base models, 5 seater's and commercial versions were often specified without. If the truck is otherwise in good shape I wouldn't say its a deal breaker just a negotiation lever. I never had it and never missed it on mine, but I know people who do road miles really appreciate an ACE system in good order. Search on here for the common ailments and fixes, make sure you get any displaced parts for future tinkering and go for it .... at the right price.

You haven't reduced the BECM to that surely?

I think several of us can relate to that ....... from one , the other, or even both sides

I think the plastic goes brittle with age even if you got some off undamaged, I might break them trying to fit them but thanks for the offer. Its a two part clip, a metal slide goes over the lower vertical sill seam and it houses the male plastic half which faces laterally outward. The female part clips to webs inside the sill cover and allow the sill cover to be clipped in from the side. Pulling out new clips to remove the sill cover might be all right but old ones apparently not. The only way you might remove them whole is to pull the metal clip part downward off the seam, the sill cover might stretch to allow that. Even then it would be a pfaff to separate the two halves and get the female parts off the sill cover, you are still chancing breaking the little tabs. Safest thing is to try and remove your own sill covers downward and put them back the same way if you ever need to. Having slept on it I am going to make little L brackets to join the seam to the lower inner edge, the S/S self tappers might be more visible than the fancy clips but I'll be able to remove them any time and they will be over £30 cheaper, not to mention quicker!

Just on that one there is a known problem with the tailgate release, caused by rusting of the spring behind the button, an entrepreneur on ebay has a wee u-tube vid and markets stainless repair kit. I am tempted, but I hesitate cos mine seems to work so well...... I am sure it'll bite me soon though!

Just in the process of doing some long overdue jobs on the Range Rover, and in the course of fitting a replacement door shell, I removed the wing and to get the wing off I removed the sill cover. I didn't realise it at the time but instead of just the 1 clip which was left on the car I could see was wrecked, they had all broken small tabs off which renders them useless. New clips (BTR7915 qty 6) come to well over £30 plus delivery! Looking at my sill covers there is no easy direct riveting type repair option. I see plastic rivets as an option so were early sill covers different? Has anyone been there and got a clever dodge/bodge they can pass on please???

No, totally different. Specifically RRC, D1 and Defender are 6.5" PCD and usually the wheel is born and centred on the studs. D2, P38 and so on are 120mm PCD and usually carried and centred by the close fitting hub centre which comes in at least two sizes. Later vehicles are possibly different again but that would be outside my experience.

New bulbs make all the difference , night and day in my case.

Thanks lads, .... before I got involved in the door shell swop, I dusted off the train set power supply and tested all three motors and the pots seem fine so just waiting on couriers for the Nanocom and the heater matrix, a few weeks back I already gave the HEVAC panel some love and did the bulbs and Zebra connectors so fingers crossed that'll be enough. Don't fancy putting it back in until I see it all working with my own eyes

I think this is what they mean by mission creep!, I just thought I would sort out the blend motors, then when I had to wait for the bits I thought I would swop the door over for one that hadn't been run into by the builder's truck; ..... I couldn't get at the hinges so I decided to take the wing off, to get the wing off I had to take the bumper off and the sill cover, to get the sill cover off the mudflap had to come off etc.etc. ....... finally started putting things back phew!

You would thonk but that wasn't my experience, I found some ink was quite tricky??

I 've used nail varnish remover to good effect, (the chemical name escapes me )

.... I might have the same, ..... had the motors out and opened up, no physical problem apparent, in fact they are 'new' Britpart replacements, I was told that the blend motors had been done when I bought the vehicle but I took that with a pinch of salt as the book symbol came back straight after I fixed the A/C. I have taken out the airbag and SRS fuses and plugged almost everything else back in to test, but none of the motors moves. Question if anyone knows, I lined up the marks on the cogs when I re-assembled the servos, and rotated the flaps to suit the resultant position when fitting them in place, I assume that the feedback system should sort that out in its head and pressing the Auto button would reboot the sytem to zero in. Or do you have to put the flaps in a starting position so that it knows where it is?