Blanco

Its been a while since I had the 2a but I did once put the condenser lead on top of the plastic spacer/washer, it doesn't work well that way!

On a D1 you should be able to lock the centre diff manually, granted it isn't usual but I should have thought it would be OK driven sensitively? ..... I am sure someone here will have done it in real life.

Can't help with the main question but if balance and lift height are restricted these things are a great help, a mate of mine made one years ago out of an old transit (I think) jack and it works brilliantly level lift bar

Nothing at all as often as not but the joints do wear and need replacing in the course of things. Some off-roaders think that it restricts articulation and replace it with a panhard rod (or alternative) arrangement. As I said when encouraged to re-read your original post I realised I had probably mis-understood the gist of it, and in doing so introduced a slight red herring.

Makes sense, only one I have seen in the flesh had it.

I thought the late ones had all that ?? But now that I re-read it, I may have jumped to the wrong conclusion there

Hi Matt, obviously we don't know what resources you have to do the Watts linkage replacement but that would be a fairly 'deep end' just for a bit of green laning, I would get to know the vehicle first and see whether it proves a good buy before major surgery. Tyres are the thing, daily driver and green lane are really two different things, AT's will be a compromise solution, if you have a major commute then consider MT's on a spare set of wheels for the weekend

Must be time for another LR !!

I use Gunsons Ezibleed which is very similar, works really well, you don't need much pressure for most systems about 10psi is plenty. Cheap and cheerful, I have a larger one, but cleaning it out is a pain, so generally just use the Ezibleed.

Forgive a mere mortal wot hasn't had a V8 now for many a long year......... Apparently Rave does reference it somewhere:... saw a reference to section 19 somewhere? In the Rave manual, it shows a picture of two engine coolant temperature sensors, but in the description, it just talks about one (my guess it is talking about the one with the single bullet connector. It says it should measure 28k ohms at -30 degrees C, 300 ohms at 85 degrees C, and 90 ohms at 130 degrees C.What is the other sensor for (the one with a two prong connector)? Found the above comment Here Also found This and This too, on the basis that the sindle pin sensor is AMR1425, 'green' which I think is correct.

Found this for you, ... any good? Table

Wow, .... good spot,..... perhaps we'll get an update in part 2?

Just watched the 'Workshop Walkthrough', great stuff But expected to see the RR somewhere in one corner or other?? Is it still around??

As SF says, it wouldn't be very straightforward, there are a few old threads on here on the subject of going the other way which a few did back in the day, readinng those would give you an understanding of what is involved in reverse. Couple of Ozzy suppliers do kits for round headlights, but I have never seen them over here, and you need to be sure that using them would be legal and safe. Replacement units in good nick must be readily available now that so many D2's are rusting, simplest solution is to swap them like for like ??

Well thanks lads, a new ad blocker has worked pretty well, I guess whatever I had before had fallen over for some reason, but not realising that I thought that the basis of the system had altered.

Usually following an emailed or pop up link on the laptop, I can't follow that sort of thing on a phone app, as far as I can see I remain signed in all the time.

As we don't have any children in the same timezone to ask the question of at this time of day, I just thought I would ask the lads here who know about stuff what has happened to YT in the last couple of weeks, can't seem to avoid the ads at all, ... I do follow some machining and LR type stuff, not to mention George or Binky, but it seems the ad scene has changed, is there any way round it or do we have to live with ads for hearing aids and other rubbish before we can cut to the chase??

Front axle I reckon would be 102mm difference (very close), rear 122mm as above, I found the 'Track' dimensions widely published and seemingly in agreement, happy to revise it though. Offsets again widely published for the D1 wheels and D2 wheels, I didn't realise they were different until I started this...... 33 and 57. I have combined the two figures to arrive at a theoretical value, of course that may well be a bit different from real life.

So spurred on by Ross's memory, I have come up with the following hopefully correct figures, noted here as much so that I know where to find them later, and they might be useful to others? D1 'Track' (ie standard wheel centres on the road) 1486mm D2 'Track' (widest at the rear by 20mm) 1560mm D1 standard offest 33mm so D1 axle width to Wheel mount surface 1552mm D2 standard offset 57mm so D2 axle width to WMS 1674mm Delta D1-D2 actually 122mm! Standard bodywork width RRC and D1 is 1813mm or 72in so on the face of it any standard D2 wheel and tyre combo seems as if it should just about be OK, (1560 + 235 = 1795) but I know that D2's had plastic arches added, I suppose some models had wider optional wheels and tyres?

aka the Bendix.

I have heard that V8 starters respond well to basic cleaning / maintenance and are much easier to remove/refit that the Td5.

Wow,.... that's twice what I was expecting!

My RRC is fitted with D1 axles and roll bars, and as purchased has 30mm spacers/pcd reducers, allowing 5x120 wheels to be fitted, currently got my winter tyre set from my old D2, (I have a set of black 22" going cheap if anyone is interested). When I get to that point in the build I am considering D2 axles,..... leaving aside for the moment whether you consider that worthwhile or not I was just hunting around for the actual precise difference between the WMS widths so that I could judge wheel options and offsets to stay within the standard wings. I can find lots of threads and comments that say that they are wider but nothing in the way of measurements......... anyone got the numbers please?

I assumed the Iso-whatsit alcopop came in a can as well, ..... I meant one of each

I went through the handbook once and found how to turn it off, but it didn't last past a flat battery, I'll have to drag it out again and have another shufty, thanks. Not sure why it sometimes goes the other way though. Thanks FF, .... it is great to know what we should do ..... just dealing with essentials at the moment but as soon as normal cashflow is resumed I will invest in a couple of cans and perhaps even indulge in some preventative maintenance