Blanco

Good to know!, it was a pain to put new seals in the round one. Still trying to be helpful I also had trouble at the head end of the top hose, the alloy got corroded and made it weep.

Fuel cooler is a prime culprit, hard to see and nearly always hides the traces by being warmed up.

I still miss mine, such a good all-rounder..... What sort of mileage did it have and what year was the engine? I know it was supposed to be a Td5 weakness but I never saw any sign of trouble in 200k miles. Did you go 'Italian' replacement?

To be fair though at least we can now share the joke, ....... it was limited to those with 40/20 vision before

Pics of the markings;.....

Steve, thanks for the feedback on steel, I hadn't thought about weld spatter, good point. The Hiab (my one) is an 022T, (2.2Tm), I can take a snap of the plate if you want tomorrow, there is also a very similar, visually near identical 017 which I have the handbook for (It was available at the time, the correct one wasn't), I have also seen 025 and 027. The T signifies the simplified boom format, ie post and telescopic main boom, no dipper.

Just back on this a bit today, ..... no pics but just fixing it to the floor and wall. As this is the 'engineering' bench I thought I might put a steel top on part or all of it, just wondering what people have used to good effect? Thinking thickness wise,................ strength isn't the issue so much as dent resistance............. and would it be worth the extra for SS?

It's a while since I saw a nice drivers one though.

Well without seeing the vehicle the 2nd turbo and the head work would be 'unlucky'....... 3 exhausts I presume was damage?, 3 batteries? a quality battery should last, don't know about that one. The rest of it seems normal, it probably comes down to corrosion, will it need much welding ? If not should be worth hanging on to, particularly if it came back from somewhere warm and dry where humidity and salt haven't yet featured greatly in its life.

I had a cheapy and managed to break it.... ended up with this style fleabay which is idiot proof and small enough to get in above axles and hard to reach areas.

The final solution was quite 'Old school', the lad who came out this morning had a cute little airbag for forcing the door top and he tried and failed to pull the inside door handle with a long thick wire. He then opened a brief case full of a range of picks, chose one for BMW, and it took about 15mins with quite a sophisticated pick. I was pleased to be sorted but I was quite surprised that the solution was mechanical.

No membership for anything like that these days, but you prompted me to check the insurance and I have just phoned them, apparently it counts as 'breakdown' even on my TPFT policy so I can call out a lock doctor tomorrow, I hate relying on others and using insurance as (in my experience) it justs puts the cost up but under the circs I think this time I will ring them back in the morning. Thanks Qwackers.

Feeling a bit stoopid...... having been working out of the back of the RR this morning, I decided after lunch to go off and do a couple of errands. It was warm so I took my fleece off chucked it on the parcel shelf and slammed the upper tailgate...... went round to the drivers door and its locked!!!!. At some point during the morning I remember hearing it 'cheep' at me but now I realise it was telling me that a door was open (ie the tailgate) when I must have leant on the key accidently. The key needless to say is in the fleece. The spare, (following a cock up a couple of weeks back when I left the lights on, and tried both keys) is also inside the car. Rang the wife who came to get me and have spent much of the afternoon scratching my head over a solution. I have managed with a wire to pull up the driver's lock button but that hasn't achieved anything. Ideas on a postcard please! (or PM perhaps quicker). (If there is a solution I'll just point out that it's probably best not to publish it on the open forum)

Meant to add, possibly tight for 33's or 35's though!

Just to chip in that SOA works well on an ifor, I only did it to get away from those silly little tyres. This is my LM146 long since converted with Disco rims and heavy van tyres 205/60 16s I think they are; The bump stop needs altered and I seem to remember turning the axle, but it is straight forward enough.

Tried to register an Iveco 40-10 in France a few years back, great truck but just to get started on the process the Iveco main dealer had to inspect the vehicle, he wanted €520+vat just to open a file! After that it was €60/hr odd before vat for his inspection and any work he considered necessary! A mate at the same time had a much more recent twin wheel tipper, it cost him €1200+vat before the paperwork was stamped........ I sold the truck .

Nice that it doesn't (needn't) cost a fortune to go out and play.

looks great, .... and 15t works on PLG? I never gave it much thought but I assumed 7.5t would be the limit. Academic in Ireland as its not possible to insure a lorry privately.

Fuel wise it can also depend where you are and where you fill up.... I always used a local independant forecourt in France and never had a dirty fuel filter.... here in Ireland, the filters are noticeably dirtier, I wouldn't want to leave one for 7 years!

4 poster airbourne? Unless you have some service history that suggests otherwise then the valve block has almost certainly never been serviced, which means it wil by now be dusty dirty and possibly beginning to suffer from humidity as well. Definitely time to have a look see.

group O , second page

It is quite a big subject when you get started, for those with on board air............ on the bay, or more traditional but remote.........Rimmer.

Subscribed, due to arthritus in my case. Found this one Ratsport much cheaper 1.9/1 and there is an old thread on here.

Perhaps he needs clearance to comment?

Was the Jarrah imported I wonder or did/does SA have a native species?