SteveG

Hi Dave its 7/16 UNF, so 20 tpi Cheers, Steve

Nope, but let me find the one in the garage and I'll measure it for you.

10kg in total per winch, and gives the example of someone running two winches would save 20 kilos. Cheers, Steve

I'm pretty sure I have an alarm ecu etc. here you can have. It was part of a cdl kit, that I don't need as I'm driving them off another alarm and one touch boxes. Let me take a look over the weekend, and let you know model etc. and if you want it, you can have it for cost of postage. Cheers, Steve

They do copper nickel kits too.

Surely when you show them pics of this... they would have to concede that your van follows the same principles as a camper sold in the UK and across the rest of Europe by a mass manufacturer. Go figure. Cheers, Steve

I believe nationwide trim in redditch do. I haven't spoken to them about mine yet, so can't guarantee it, but I understand they do the complete foams and can recover in anything. They will provide it for diy fitting as well as providing a fully fitted service. http://www.nationwidetrim.com/ Cheers, Steve

I was recommended to use bilthamber's seam sealer, who'll supply in personal use quantities. cheers, Steve

The reason I ask is that I had planned to use the above housing, along with it's pair to convert my LHD range rover classic to RHD. These housings are off a 91 range rover classic with ABS and I'm fitting them to my 89 non ABS 2 door. I spent over a day sand blasting the really rusty housing and then painting it. I left it complete with the ball and stub axle so I didn't get any crud inside while I blasted it, and to make it easier to paint too. However, in hindsight, I should have stripped it down first, as when I took the stub axle off, I noticed that someone had obviously stripped two of the bolt holes at some point and had then used thread insert to fix it. They'd obviously done this in situ without stripping down the housing, as they hadn't trimmed the insert on the other side and one of them was all knarled from coming into contact with either the CV joint or ball. I can and have already trimmed them down, but personally, I'm not that keen on using the housing with the inserts. So a complete waste of time of blasting and painting, but never mind. Anyway, I took the punt and bought a NOS LHS housing that lrseries were selling for a reasonable £55 + shipping. Here they are side by side... The dimensions of the main housings appear to be identical. As expected the upper and lower pins are different, however a difference I didn't expect is that the drag link arm hole centre is about 5mm further out on the earlier version. Is there a reason/issue with this? I'm assuming that once it's all set up correctly and toe is correctly set that this difference would not make a difference, however, someone with more experience may know correctly. What are people's thoughts on this?? Not a problem, I'll just source a refurbed Later non ABS LHS housing for RHD if I need to. Thanks Steve

Impressed by the paint, so no complaints there, but not impressed by it when it's bought in spray cans. As well as a 2.5l can I also bought a few spray cans of the RCP primer and the Chassis in one, CIO, paint to do the various brackets etc. that need doing at stages through the rebuild. The RCP cans have all been good and work well, but so far I'm not getting a good success rate on the CIO cans. One can has worked perfectly, used for touching up the welding on the rear arches, but two of the cans are no good. Every time they just instantly clog the fan spray heads. Change the head, or try a normal spray cap head and again they instantly clog. The only way I can use them is to remove the fan spray head from the spray cap and use it with the straight through hole opening. Just about useable for larger objects like a swivel housing, but no good for small brackets etc. as the flow rate is too high. It's not a temp issue, as they are stored at house temps, and the ambient temp when spraying is about 10o C higher now than when I used the one can that did work. It's not a gassing issue, as they will spray fine with the open spray cap, just too much flow obviously. Not a mixing issue, as cans are shaken for longer than instructed and the can that did work, was used multiple times with gaps in between. So the only thing I can assume is that they haven't been thinned correctly with the right amount of thinners to operate ok through a fan or normal head of a spray cap. Not a good success rate with 1/3 cans actually useable. I'll have to resort to using my spray gun, mixing up paint and cleaning out heads etc. every time I need a few brackets done. I'll use up the two faulty cans with an open cap on some larger objects, so fortunately £30 isn't wasted. I tried contacting buzzweld through website form and via direct email, with no response. There is no tel no. or address. Cheers, Steve

As you know, the milk float comment was a lame attempt at a joke, but on a more serious note, an electric conversion could be viable in a few years time. Given time for a number of those Tesla X buyers to pile their car into the car in front whilst messaging on the M25, there maybe some affordable conversion options, that have the low down torque required, range and the green credentials you need. Also the latest crop of petrols from BMW, Mercedes etc. All now have twin turbos to give much better torque at low revs. Again in a few years, these could be viable options. The main headache being getting all of the electrics working. Not easy on today's cars.

What about finding an old milk float as a donor, and going electric instead?

Are there any differences in the various range rover classic swivel housings that have the imperial caliper fixings, or are they interchangeable? There appears to be three types. 70-85, and 86 on with ABS or non ABS. Thanks in advance. Steve

Ok thanks for quick reply. cheers, Steve

Sorry to hijack thread, but quick Q on plastic vs metal tanks. Does the plastic one have greater capacity? Also is it a direct swap or do they mount in a totally different way? Thanks, Steve

In hindsight that would have been a good idea when I stripped the axle a few months back. Not a problem though, I'll soon sort it out. cheers Steve

I can only go by the fact that they came out of the rear axle of an 89 range rover classic. Although it's impossible to tell, going by the bolts and the mud shield it didn't look like the stub axles had been taken off before. Certainly the hubs had been off and the bearings changed at least once. (By a ham fisted or time pressed mechanic ) cheers steve

Thanks for looking Ralph. I noticed in the parts book, that on the front axle the stub axle and swivel ball oil seals both have different numbers. I'll have a look at their dimensions tomorrow and see if either of those would fit too. Cheers, Steve

No response, so I assume I haven't made a stupid mistake. I'll pop by my localish LR parts specialist with the stub axle and see what they come up with. Failing that I'll order a couple of oil seals online with the correct OD & ID dimensions. Cheers, Steve

I went to assemble my rear axle, but when it came to fit the stub axle, there's an issue with the size of the oil seal. It's od is ~46mm, but the hole in the rear of the stub axle is ~51mm... The parts book lists the seal as - FTC951 OIL SEAL, but on all the parts sites this is superseded by FTC5268. Any ideas on correct part no.? Thanks, Steve

What type of wood is it, hard or soft?

As you say, it's a brand building exercise. JLR are attempting to create the reputation that the likes of Ferrari, Mercedes, Aston Martin, Porsche etc. have with their factory classic restoration shops. Naturally you can't just build it up overnight, and simply building it out and hoping the customers come is an expensive exercise. So when you you think about it, these programs get them a lot of media attention; builds up the experience of the team, whilst making money; and lets them demonstrate what they are capable of. As for the cost, compared to over £500 for a simple oil service, it probably represents good vale for money from JLR! Cheers, Steve

Just ignore them. That made me laugh

Both front and rear. Bracket is just a rectangular piece of metal, so going by your pic above it looks like you could just goring the bracket down to fit. cheers, Steve

IIRC Nige that's where the harmonic damper was bolted to. cheers Steve