dailysleaze

We're in luck! The Exmoor kits are Waeco MagicComfort MSH50 Link to manual

I'd love to get my hands on one too. One of the wires was disconnected when I bought the defender and I dunno what I should connect it to.

Ah yeah, think i've found it. 3rd/4th Synchro hub. It's one of the 6 inner segments that's come off. Well i wouldn't mind having a new gearbox.... Presumably though the thing will still run quite reliably; just maybe 3rd or 4th might miss a beat when engaging sometimes? Well, i think i'll convince myself that for the moment.

Changed the gearbox oil as changes were a little notchy and this fell out. Strange, as the gearbox works fine in all gears (slightly notchy in 2nd) and the new oil (MTF-94) has made it just like new. It can't be a drive gear as they're helical. Reverse? Looks like it's sheared off on one side, but it's smooth at the ends and there's a lip on the inner edge. Stumped...

Black smoke means the fuel isn't burnt efficiently. Either too much fuel going in as above, or not enough air. Gunked up intercooler, hose split/collapse, dirty air filter or something else obstructing air flow?

Seems to be in the region of £2100 or £1100 + exchange Lrseries Brit-car

Vent seals Handbrake cable Axle breather tubes All look identical to the originals and fitted fine. Although, tried replacing the axle dust caps with Britpart. They are plastic not rubbery, and don't even fit on the drive member.

Saw these at work today: http://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/uk/html/onlineshop/fullrange_rub.php The handles lock the lid, they stack, are pretty sturday, and have loads of sizes up to 145 litre. I'm definitely going to get myself some.

Might wasn't working until I took off the steering shroud and realised the wire had popped off. Also, check that the contacts touch each other when the stalk is moved (labelled B in the photo)

Hopefully quick and easy. When the rocker arm is pushed up by the valve to its natural gap, I can then push the rocker arm further down onto the push rod and open the gap considerably. Should I set the clearance at the height the valve sets the arm to, or should I adjust the rocker arm so that the maximum rocking movement between the top of the push rod and the valve cap is .2mm? Cheers.

We were taught at Uni (for the media world) that "it's not plagiarism if you do it better" which seems to be very true as people tend not to have an issue with it in that case.

it makes it look like a Land Cruiser...

A pretty worn UJ. Made quite a rattle. This stub axle got hot enough that the half shaft welded to it and snapped off. It had been stood in water up to it's arches for the 24 hours previous, before being flogged down the motorway. Clunk, clunk and no drive.

Now I feel like a dumbass. I've been up to my eyeballs in flanges for the last two weeks and haven't really noticed that they're not squarely spaced. The roundness vs squaredness threw me off. Still curious about what my old propshaft was though...! Cheers guys.

Cheers for that. Starting to get a bit more light. My JA 110 Defender is definitely supposed to have propshaft FRC8390. V8s and Tdi from MA have FRC8386, which then become TVB100610 for later Tdis and Td5s. Although LRseries says FRC8386 supercedes TVB100610. However, the propshaft that I removed has one yoke like the TVB100610, but the tube is stamped FRC8390, so this leads me to believe that someone has put on the front wide angle yoke from a TVB100610 on it. Either way, I can't reuse the old propshaft so will need to go ahead with the new one. So to make it fit I need the appropriate diff flange. After a lot of friggin about, i've found for the Defender... 236632 - Flat sided, 4 spline flange FRC3002 S/S by STC3722 - Round, 24 spline flange STC4858 - Flat sided, 24 spline flange I have FRC3002/FRC3722 and now need STC4858 to fit my FRC8390 propshaft. The only comparision i've found is from an eBay shop, and apparantly the flanges are different depths. My old one is 49mm and the one I need is 61mm. Could this cause any problems as a straight forward swap?

Yep, they're both meant for the front

This is such a saga. 1992 200Tdi 110 Defender, VIN JA. I had a leaking T-box and front diff seal. Took off the front propshaft to reveal that its splines had completely seized, which caused the seal/bearing failure in the T-box. Front diff seal had failed only. Anyway, the prop taken off is FRC8390 (which is applicable for: Defender vin CA252579 to LA939975 and I assume is the original). Bought a new one (Britpart special) and the front yokes are completely different sizes. On the new one, the diff end yoke bolt holes are closer and the UJ is smaller. The T-box end fits fine. I think i've heard that the Defender Rover diff has different types of flanges? Looking for them i've found: STC3124 and 236632. 236632 appears to be correct for my MY with 4 splines, but the flange I have is multi-splined like STC3124. But then there's also STC4858 which supercedes STC3722, which supercedes FRC3002 that Microcat says is right for my vehicle. And now I have two propshafts with the same part code that are totally different?!? Normally I would just take the yoke off the old one and put it on the new one, but its completely rusted solid. So now i'm confused, either: I had the wrong prop and the right flange... or the right prop and the wrong flange or the prop I bought\was sent is wrong or Britpart suck Can anyone shed some light on this? Cheers.

This is from Rave: The speed transducer (C0195) provides a square wave, pulsed speed signal to the instrument pack (C1060) on a BR wire. The instrument pack uses this signal to drive the speedometer. The speedometer also doubles the frequency of pulses (from 4100 per mile to 8200 per mile) and provides an output to the ECM (C0658 – Td5 vehicles only) and the overspeed ECU (C1311 – Gulf specification vehicles only) on YK wires. It might help.

I've done this mod and the warning light comes on okay halfway through the orange area. Although, i'm wondering about the accuracy compared to the original 200tdi gauge. The Td5 gauge isn't linear (the first half takes up more space than the second) so i'm wondering if the sender gives a signal that the gauge inteprets differently... or does the connection through the speedo translate it? The gauge seems to spend more time in the second to last quarter and then drastically drops once it hits the last quarter. On the motorway, an 1/8th would last 70 or so miles and the needle went fom the start of the orange to red within 20 miles! Would the 110 tank still be approx 11 litres left for the warning light to come on? I guess i'll have to stick £80 in and do my own tests!

I've got exactly the same problem on my 200Tdi. Thought it might have been a bad earth, but there's only 2 wires from the tank, so the sender can't be powering a low fuel warning light as well as the gauge. I've reseated all the earthing points at the rear and still no joy. I've wondered what that relay behind the dash was for. Mine's a bit loose so it might be that. The light being on wasn't an issue until I fitted a Td5 instrument panel and now it's quite distracting! (I guess that's why it's so bright...)

I can't the get frigging front prop off. With all nuts removed at either end it wouldn't budge in any direction. I know there's a lip that runs around the inside of the yoke connecting to the flange so that the prop can't initially come off in the vertical plane, but I can't separate the yoke and the flange at either end. Whacking the prop end on, levering against the diff/t-box with a pry bar gives a bit of movement, but not full release. It appears stuck to the flange. I'm wondering if the splines are rusted together so won't allow any movement along the length to expand or contract..? Although it looks greasy from the outside and the rubber boot is still intact. Anyone got any ideas? '93 110 200tdi

Cheers guys. The reason I denounced the 255s was because the ATs come as 255/70 (smaller than standard) or 255/85 (larger but only in MT). Seeing as I currently have 255/75/15 on modulars i'd like to get at least standard size tires to help on the motorway... But anyway. 235s they probably are. Maybe the the tread looks 'squarer' than MTs, which curve slightly at the edges looking end on, making them look narrower. Thanks for your help!

Hi I wonder if anyone can take a look at these tires and tell me what size they are. It's got me stumped. They're BFG ATs on Wolf wheels. They look too wide for 235s, ATs don't come as 255s and 265s are too wide for the rims (although some African tire fitter might have put them on it) It's the Landy I used to drive and want to put that tire/wheel combo on my new one, but never noted the tire size. Anyone's insight with more tire inspection credentials is more than welcome... Cheers