dailysleaze

These people sell the modification off the shelf. Might give you something to go off if you don't want to fork out £160 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-FWD-facing-Rear-Seat-MODIFICATION-/230871386855?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35c101cae7&_uhb=1

it's in Harrods' window at the moment http://www.luxurious...harrods-london/ (til tomorrow)

I've only seen 3 pairs of galv 110 SW cappings on ebay this year. I bought one of them and paid £150 for the pleasure. I feel your pain having been through the same conundrum myself. Although you may be in luck with these right now: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3ccbb318cc *Kicking myself* There was a rumour that the puma ones were galvanised as standard?

There is one but i'm getting 9.9v when cranking on a fully charged brand new battery, so I want to give it the best route possible. Been reading this: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=68637

I want to fit an earth cable from the starter motor to the battery. Anyone know how long it needs to be and what the stud size is on starter motor bolts below?

The light's also affected by the handbrake switch. You could check that + associated wiring.

Nope

The ones on the left are for a Discovery. I accidentally fitted them on my Defender but I can't really tell the difference.

They do look very intriguing...

Woo it works! I went for option 2 in the OP, albeit I want to use the "Water in filter" warning light on the Td5 dash, which requires a switched earth, so I changed the relay to switch earth rather than ignition. High coolant, switch is closed and relay energised, holding contacts away from warning light Low coolant, switch is open and relay not energised, so contacts default to connecting the warning light Break in the wire to the sensor, therefore relay not energised and failing safe The PCB board came with a little black box, so I can house it behind the dash or somewhere When the ignition goes on, there is a brief flash of the light as the relay energises I'm so chuffed as i've never attempted anything electronic, but it worked first time!! All the credit really goes to that diagram on Stonefish. I just adapted it slightly to suit my requirements. Vehicle installation soon!

You don't even get door cards.

http://blogs.ec.europa.eu/ECintheUK/press-reports-on-ec-proposals-on-mot-tests-are-incorrect/ I love the quote "The Commission is writing separately to all the newspapers concerned, none of which checked the facts with us before publication."

There was about 250kg in this scenario. You really notice it. You have to drive very slowly off road, whilst turning the steering wheel very gently or you regret it. It was a Brownchurch roof rack and they're very strong.

I reckon I can get away with a transistor and a resistor to power an LED on the dash like in the Option 1 diagram in the OP. As I understand it, relays are better than transistors for larger currents and other reasons below, but I don't think it matters that much. If the circuit has to power a buzzer or something requiring more juice, then a relay might be better. It might be that the high resistance in the reed switch means not enough current passes to energise a relay. Although, it might just be swings and roundabouts. From here: http://www.kpsec.fre...om/trancirc.htm "When to use a relay Transistors cannot switch AC or high voltages (such as mains electricity) and they are not usually a good choice for switching large currents (> 5A). In these cases a relay will be needed, but note that a low power transistor may still be needed to switch the current for the relay's coil! Advantages of relays: Relays can switch AC and DC, transistors can only switch DC. Relays can switch high voltages, transistors cannot. Relays are a better choice for switching large currents (> 5A). Relays can switch many contacts at once. Disadvantages of relays: Relays are bulkier than transistors for switching small currents. Relays cannot switch rapidly, transistors can switch many times per second. Relays use more power due to the current flowing through their coil. Relays require more current than many ICs can provide, so a low power transistor may be needed to switch the current for the relay's coil."

I've been away for the last month, but i've just bought a load of components and am going down the route of trial and error. Will report back.

Cheers. I did see that one and I'm planning on using that warning lamp also. I was hoping though to try something simpler (no switches, test lights). What seems to be the key is that that solution requires an "interface module" from a guy that put them together for the difflock forum 3 years ago. I'd like to get to the bottom of what's required to make something that works like the interface module, but with component parts.. if that's possible...

I've been doing a lot of research and there's lots of ways of installing the RR PRC7925 expansion cap into a Defender. Difflock, EP90, AULRO all have their own versions. I'm not electronically inclined and just want something simple to solder together but these guys talk about interface modules and other magic things... The best in terms of simplicity i've found so far is from Stonefisk.com Option 1 Option 2 These seem simple enough for me, but I don't know which is better? Why does one have a transistor and a resistor, but the other has a relay, transistor and diode? One talks about preventing voltage spikes to protect the components, etc. My thought would be that having... a transistor (as a switch) a diode (preventing reverse current) a resistor (providing a route in event of coolant loss/failsafe) ...on one circuit would do the job? Any thoughts?

These guys sell aluminium wing panels: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-LH-Defender-Outer-Front-Wing-300tdi-94-98-/261048940353?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc7bab741#ht_1915wt_1344

I was all set to swap the chassis this summer until I asked my parents if I could do it on their land (as I haven't the space). Dad said "why would you want to do that?". His point being that you could do a hell of a lot of welding for the cost of the chassis (including several rear cross members) and it wouldn't really add any value to the vehicle. It's cast doubt on it all for me. Unfortunately, I can't ignore the wiseness of my Dad... I think in my case, the chassis (1997) is only just getting it's first hole. I can learn to weld on it. If it was shot to pieces and replacing the chassis was the only realistic option, then going galvanised would be a no-brainer. If the chassis is alright though, I don't think there's much reasoning for getting one other than wanting it (albeit a very powerful reason.. )

I've lost count how many times i've had to do this.

I think the flat face of the brackets also need to face forwards, as they bolt to the rear face of the heel board

On mine, I flushed the intercooler, removed the EGR, removed the cat and replaced the split manifold gasket. Afterwards it would pull hills in 3rd that beforehand needed 2nd. Quite impressed for these simple changes.

Not particularly clear, but using the military metal flexible snorkel with the mushroom top, it come with hoops that normally bolt to a bracket. Instead you can get some more hoops to mirror it on the roll cage. The two hoops can then be bolted together.

I think it's because they're hand-built with a UK labour force who are quite expensive = un-economical vehicle. I'd be interested to know how long it takes the factory to put one together. I heard that if the Defender does carry on in it's current form then it'll be built in India

Further to this, the change to new fluid made both clutch cylinders leak, so I fitted new TRW master and slave cylinders. Anyway, the slave is now leaking again Is there any reason for a new one to leak other than it being dodgy? All i can muster up is a deteriorating flexible pipe leaving bits in the fluid or the wrong push rod length so the slave over extends?