elbekko

Jag V12?

P38 bags don't have thread, just a 6mm push-fit fitting. Unless you went for Arnott Gen 2 bags?

That could give some "interesting" on-road handling... You'll want 4mm internal, 6mm external diameter nylon line. Use olive fittings if you don't want it to leak.

Yup. Everything seems to take 2-3x as long as you think they should.

It's only a small part, but he seems to manage to get pretty reliable measurements off it: I tried some photogrammetry a while back when designing the little power strip to replace the ashtray in my P38. It worked ok to get a general idea of the curves necessary and such, but still needed a bunch of actual measurements, as you said. Really good job on that exhaust!

EFI is only as complex as you want to make it, tbh. Nige offers full pre-made looms, can't speak to the quality of them, but I'd expect it to be fairly plug-and-play. Hook up some grounds and power wires, put in a high-pressure fuel pump, and bob's your uncle. Do some tuning once you get closer to grown-ups like @Bowie69 or @FridgeFreezer, but the base map should work just fine. Or fit a carb and an electric winch, as you'll need it to get yourself off sideslopes

Thor (Bosch engine management) - later version, intake manifold that looks like a bunch of bananas. The manifold gives better low-down torque, trading off a bit of top-end power. Never factory mated to a manual, but that only matters if you want to keep the stock engine management, as the 60-2 trigger wheel is on the flywheel. Runs higher fuel pressure (3.5 bar). Also has an aluminium sump. GEMS (Lucas engine management) - earlier version, rectangular intake manifold. Was available as both manual and auto, manual flywheels are pretty rare. Again only really matters if you plan on using the stock engine management. Blocks are all the same. Ancillaries are different, but can be swapped over freely.

That was a screengrab from one of Harry's Instagram stories - I guess it's all about the Grenadier for him Just figured the picture itself was relevant here.

I think a good hydro set-up would suit Sid very well. But they're not cheap... Then again, with Stephen's knack for finding stuff in the scrap bin at work, I'm sure he can find some hydraulic motors and cobble something together

It depends a bit on what sort of usage you think the winch will see. Especially for mainly self-recovery, it's unlikely you'll be winching for 10-20+ minutes continuously. But a bigger alternator is never a bad idea, I would say.

That's exactly what I read and hear everywhere.

I just have it on my main battery. The P38 has a 150A alternator, which helps.

Hope it works out!

Precisely. And honestly it's not even *that* slow, plenty fast for non-competition use.

Yup, I have one. Same reason, cheap enough to take a punt on. Just the winch rope costs that much. It works well. Seems well constructed and good quality. The rope held up to some heavy pulling on @Stellaghost's lightweight dead in deep mud. So far the only thing I can fault it on is that the wireless remote is wired the wrong way around, but I'm sure that's just swapping two wires in the control box. Picture of it in my bumper:

Is it an option to get it explicitly included in a building's insurance, instead of specifically on the car?

Shouldn't be too difficult, no. There was a thread on here a few months back of someone doing exactly that. The top mount needs a cutout for the airline to stick through. Top and bottom are held in place with a pin. I'd go for some Arnott (or knock-off) bags that have the bag crimped onto the pedestal.

The Trail Mater crew is by far the best and most professional. Casey LaDelle is decent, but does silly things as well. MORR has gotten more professional, but still very much sand-recovery-with-a-rope guys that now also have winches. Heavy D is a commercial with cool equipment. But by far the most yee-haw and sketchy of all. Cool shots, godawful editing. If you want to watch someone do very safety-minded (non-off-road) recovery, go watch Ron Pratt operate his rotator, that is impressive to watch. On the flipside, most people on here think even looking at a kinetic rope will murder a bus of nuns...

Just to clarify for some readers: The beadlock talk is because Sid was having issues with almost no tyre deformation, and dropping down to very low pressures seems to help - but at the risk of losing a bead.

That thing is horrifyingly ugly too. At least the Earth Roamer stuff is functional and decent-looking, even if they weight more than the moon.

The steering bars should probably be changed out anyway? They looked to be stock LR items that were flexing quite a bit?

Ah, couldn't really make it out from the pictures. Probably not, but I have a separate set of road tyres and wheels anyway.

Those look interesting, and ok priced. How do you install these, cut off the existing outer bead and weld these on instead? A certain incident at 7S may have prompted me to think about this As another option, @Escape used to run air beadlocks. Like this: https://www.innerairlock.com/beadlocks I've also seen people use old motorcycle tyres for this. They're a faff to stuff into the wheel though.

Maybe look around the Ultra4 teams for an old set of tyres?