elbekko

An old Mini Cooper S? Not RWD, but damn fun. An MX-5 could also be fun, and not too expensive.

I'll be having the head tested, and removing it with the local mechanic guiding me (I think I mainly want him there for the reinstalling, I don't really trust myself anymore). I took the head off my old engine today, will be having that tested and skimmed somewhere next week, if it's a good'un I'll just throw that one on and still have the other one tested to have some closure. And I think it's high time I make work of that donation

As I said, because I already have all the bits to do this and I'm a difficult person Managed to find the right datasheet, had to get the part number from the picture on Turner's site, as the sensor I have doesn't seem to have any writing on it It appears to be the Bosch 0 280 130 036. Strangely listed as an air temperature sensor, but I guess I shouldn't be surprised. Will be picking up the PIC with analog input and my programmer at a friend's place tomorrow, and made a basic circuit in Tina to test the principle - seems to be fine

I do now, finally rid of those pesky exams Time to put all those crazy ideas I concocted during the exams into practice.

Well, it still isn't fixed. Replaced the freeze plugs, drove it without a problem for 2-3 days, always checking the coolant level before leaving. Then thursday morning I noticed quite a bit of coolant was missing - so I topped it up, and drove off. Later I checked again, engine was still a bit warm so wasn't surprised by the pressure on the system. Did a little bit of driving, nothing especially taxing (my steering had given out by then too Isn't it fun to have 45° of play in your steering when you're driving a friend home?), and suddenly I noticed the temp gauge going up. Luckily not too far from my friend's place, so dropped her off, let out the pressure and drove it to the shop and left it there In a few weeks I'll be going over it with my local mechanic who is about 100x more knowledgeable about these engines than I am, but from my explanation he reckons it's most likely a small crack in the head or block after all. So probably head off and get it tested. Well, so much for hoping eh There's obvious flow in the expansion tank now, so I really doubt it's clogged pipes.

But why not make it if I have all the bits already? Just need the sensor values really, but I guess I'll just have to test and measure.

Since I don't trust the temperature sender at the thermostat in the slightest, nor do I trust the gauge in the dash, I was thinking of using the EGR temperature sender on top of the cylinder head to get some sort of accurate reading. Because for all I know, with its tendency to overheat lately the cylinder head may be banana-shaped by the time the gauge rises... Now, it seems to be pretty hard to find any actual data on what resistance values this sensor (ERC2081) has at what temperatures. I did find this interesting post, but that topic confuses me a bit (it may be because of the rather late hour ) and I'm not sure that's actually related to that sensor. I was thinking of using a PIC or something that drives a little display I have laying about (might as well use it, right?). I'm sure I can get a friend of mine that's studying to be an electrical engineer to figure out the circuit needed to be able to actually read the resistance of the sensor (from what I've found, it goes a bit over my head sadly).

I've had it happen that the lights in the doors stayed on, made it go dead overnight.

Amen to that, ruined a cam with that

And a good example of why you shouldn't use a wireless remote too. Did you see the lag on that thing?

And if it doesn't move, it's probably rusted in place.

The bulb connectors like oxidating, which leads to stuff like that. But if you say you've checked that... no clue.

That's where I lost it :rofl: :rofl:

Could be worse...

Perhaps you shouldn't be holding the sensor while measuring resistance? 100°F is rather close to body temp

Probably that the immobiliser shuts down the start relay, which in turn will stop the glow plugs from working with this setup. Or something like that.

Fine, dig him up and then shoot him. Repeatedly.

The main advantage is no more faffing about trying to correctly tension a belt by moving your alternator in a slotted hole. The tit that invented that should be shot.

A forklift is really handy for doing engines - excellent control, and you don't have to worry about where you have to hang the weight. Of course that's not really something most people have at home.

Yes, it's called a 300TDi

That's only on one side though.

Myes, but having to drill and tap a hole in the axle casing isn't exactly a bolt-on mod I'd say.

I *think* that's the one at the bulkhead, so there should be two of those.

Liability should be simple, just note "not for road use" and "the use of this system is fully at your own risk" in the EULA. As for the speed sensor, what I said earlier (reading the disk brake) would probably work, but probably not in deep muck (although the MS VR sensor seems to work just fine in those conditions). An added problem is drum brakes though, you'd have to find a way to mount it internally probably. Oh, and solid disks aren't an option either In the words of my super-awesome Paint skills:

Yep. There's also a triangle-head bolt on that thing, which apparently they don't have an official tool for, so you just take a cheap 7mm socket and hammer it on... Once you've done it a few times it's pretty easy (apart from that one bolt, that is), and getting it set up correctly is just a matter of trial and error (start -> no good? -> hammer -> repeat).