Puffernutter

Re-reading what I did - it's just the cap you need. I think the reference is in the link I put in my edited message. RR float switch header tank cap coolant level sensor PRC7925 The trouble is the sensor in the cap is electronic so you need some sort of driver to operate a relay that then drives a light/alarm. This was the original install from the guy that made the electronics box - http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=10972 Cheers Peter

I knackered a 300Tdi by cooking it after losing the coolant. With the next engine I fitted a Range Rover header tank that had a sensor on it and a simple circuit that flashed a light and sounded an alarm when the level dropped. Here's what I did from another poster - Cheers Peter

NFU. I have a 90 with the 2.5TD replaced with a 200Tdi and no hassles. Cheers Peter

Mine's been with NFU for many years. Not necessarily the cheapest, but reasonably competitive and always good service. Peter

My "Death Wobble" was rarely one single thing, it was always a combination. Generally it was a swivel with very little pre-load and a panhard rod bush. The ones (panhard bushes) I used didn't last 6 months! I also fitted a different damper with a very stiff characteristic. Cheers Peter

Andy, Yes I did, connected the Ford sensor directly in place of the LR sensor and it fired up immediately. Brilliant mod, not too expensive and relatively straightforward! Cheers Peter

Apart from noise - no! Also be careful on removing it - the screws shear very easily! Cheers Peter

If you're in the Trowbridge area I've got a cooling pressure testing kit you can borrow. Cheers Peter

Could there be an airlock in the system? Is the heater getting hot? (OK - it's a Defender, is it above tepid :-) Cheers Peter

Have you checked the wiring to the crank sensor ? With my P38 GEMS it was the crank sensor that was the cause of all my problems as it is the only sensor that the GEMS has no default settings for! Peter

What year? Petrol or diesel?

I'm planning on lifting my 90, I have the spacers, but not the shocks. If you don't have a buyer yet - message me please? Cheers Peter

Trouble is, the screws are covered by the bonnet when it's locked shut! Tried that! Cheers Peter

Now if you want a really fun job, try releasing the bonnet when a cable has snapped! Cheers Peter

Fair comment. I couldn't think of the right term! It's attached to the RHS (from the driver's seat) locking mechanism. I think if you remove the radiator grill you can get access to it. It's only one side that has the microswitch.

The bonnet switch (IIRC) is on one of the locking mechanisms under the front valence. RHS I think? Cheers Peter

The stop solenoid will only require little current to keep it open enough to let enough fuel through to idle. Step 1 is when it is doing this to remove the feed to the stop solenoid at the stop solenoid and prove this is the problem. If this is the case, the stop solenoid is getting a small leakage current and it may not be the lighting circuit, it could be anywhere as electricity is fickle stuff! Let us know if it stops with the feed removed. Cheers Peter

Diesel? Cheers Peter

Too late now but an Ed China trick! Leave the existing belt in place and then cut it in half lengthwise. When the cut is complete, remove the outer half. Then place the new belt so it is half way across the pulleys loosening the tensioner slightly to fit if needed. Then cut the remaining half of the old belt and remove. Push the new belt fully on. Cheers Peter

A long time since I played with a 12J (I used to have one in my 110), but doesn't one pulley have two revolutions w.r.t the other having just 1? Could you be 180 degrees out? Cheers Peter

13.8 to 14.4v A multimeter across the battery terminals should be sufficient. Most engines should charge at idle. Increase the revs to see if anything changes. Looks like a diode gone in the diode pack. Cheers Peter

Diode possibly? Cheers Peter

The charge light actually creates a small amount of current that starts the alternator charging, which then self excites and when that point is reached, the charging light goes out, so you know it is working! Simples! It's normally a spade connector. Cheers Peter

You need the thin wire to excite the alternator, it may not even kick in, even at high revs. Cheers Peter

Can of worms! If a tacho for a petrol engine that takes a feed from the ignition, then generally all you set up is the number of cylinders. If you're taking pulses from an alternator it depends on how many pulses/revolution from the alternator and the pulley sizes from the crank pulley to the alternator pulley! I'd buy a tacho for a petrol engine that is driven off the coil if you could - by far and away the easiest solution! Cheers Peter