Puffernutter

With a diesel its usually the alternator (which isn't a function on earlier Landies). With a petrol it depends on the tacho. Some tachos use a wire from the coil looped around the tacho (forms a single turn), others are a direct connection. What instructions came with it? Cheers Peter

I had a 1990 110 (initially 19J then 200Tdi) that I converted to a veggie. It took a while to tweak the system, but this is what I ended up with. Twin tanks. A small tank of diesel was installed behind the centre middle seat. I also installed a heater unit on the oil line (fed from the cooling water system) a changeover valve, did the feed AND return (stops you feeding oil back to the diesel!) and a temperature switch (70degC) on the heater. The engine was always started on diesel. When the engine was sufficiently warm, the temperature switches automatically swapped from diesel to veggie (I had an indicator on the dash that showed the state of the valve (red - diesel, green - veggie!) about 1 mile before I was about to get to my destination, I would flip a switch that out the engine back onto diesel to purge the veggie. That would leave it in a state ready to start again the next time. I also had a hidden switch that would allow me to force a switch either way. The only thing I would do differently is to have a slightly larger tank of diesel and either a fuel gauge on that tank or a warning when it was getting low. If you want more details, send me a message. Cheers Peter

I assume this is an auto? Remove the inspection panel from the bell housing and have a close look at the sensor used to detect engine position. Look for the sensor itself being bent. Alternatively, turn the engine over and have a look at the pins too look for any bent or missing ones. There should be 35 pins with one missing and that gap tells the engine where TDC is. On my GEMS, one of the pins was damaged (actually missing) and what happened was that the engine correctly identified TDC, then about 40 odd degrees later, re-identified it! I ended up putting a new 36-1 toothed wheel and sensor behind the front crank pulley - a kit of parts is available from one of the mods on here. Cheers Peter

Sold both mine....... Wallet a lot heavier now :-)

Generally experience has shown that if you replace one part (master or slave) the un-replaced part will then quickly fail! It could be the master having failed with a new slave, there is potentially more pressure which puts extra stress on the seals that quickly expire (and vice-versa). Just my 2d and experience! Cheers Peter

My experience with "death wobble" on a 110 is that it never just one thing! There are usually a number of culprits causing the problem and an equal number of mitigations that prevent/reduce it! Loose swivels are a favourite cause, panhard bushes and steering dampers (in my experience) are the prime mitigations. Once you lose the benefit of new bushes or the damper is less efficient, the death wobble will return! In the end I fitted a sprung damper and that solved it! Good luck with the steering box! I used to remove a few bolts from the top (to give me access) and I had a Snap On track rod end bush splitter and a bl00dy great lump hammer. It would come eventually! Cheers Peter

Cutting out may be a number of things, although I would be doubtful if it were the crank sensor. My problem was that the flex plate shattered and I hadn't realised that it had created a new gap in the timing pins! It wouldn't start or if it did, only briefly and ran like a bag of nails with back firing etc. In the end, rather than pull the box again and change the flywheel complete I fitted a new slotted disc at the front, behind the crank pulley and used a Ford sensor (supplied by a moderator of this forum). That started an ran sweetly. However to stop totally could be ignition related, or maybe even mobiliser related. If it does it again see what (if anything) comes up on the speedo display. Cheers Peter

It may be a bent pin. Do you have access to a Nanocom? It wont help with the crank sensor, but may with other issues? Cheers Peter

The crank sensor (if it is the same as my 4.6 GEMS) will quite happily work in a puddle of oil as it is magnetic! I'd pop the inspection cover off and turn the engine over, checking that all of the timing "pins" are there (including the gap) and that you haven't gained a gap. The timing sensor is the only item on the ECU that the ECU can't use stored values as it uses the gap to determine TDC! I have a lot of experience with this recently!! Cheers Peter

Cab insecure; maybe for a vehicle - like a truck - that has a cab that tips forward for access to the engine? Cheers Peter

Heat; weld a nut on top? Brute force? Cheers Peter

Don't get too carried away with replacing bits! I have an EAS "Kicker" and more recently a Nanocom. My EAS going into this mode occasionally. When I use the kicker, it just resets the fault, when I've interrogated it with the Nanocom it tells me the pump has been running for too long. However, reset the fault and all is well. So I'd reset it and see what happens. It may just be a temporary glitch. Cheers Peter

Where are you / where is the car? Cheers Peter

Teh last time I bought some it was from local factors, it was more flexible than the hard plastic, it was push on, there's very little pressure there. Try these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-1-200tdi-300tdi-Leak-Off-Diesel-Fuel-Pipes-X3-/281842702034?hash=item419f2256d2:g:dhcAAOSwAYtWMpNV

I've always called them "leak back" pipes. Not sure if that's correct though! Cheers Peter

To put this into context - I had finally worked out the problem was with the "reluctor ring" as it had two gaps in it, this was confusing the GEMS! The answer was to bodge a repair (that worked briefly, but failed) then either pull the box and replace the flywheel or fit a new timing wheel behind the front crank pulley. After advice and recommendations I went to the Megasquirt site and after a call and exchange of e-mails with Nige, go mt bits from them Sorry it's been a while - my day job is leading the Independent Safety Assessment team looking at the Great Western electrification! Life's been a tad busy recently, including a track walk to look at what they've been installing. Anyway, back to the Rangie! Nigel (of Megasquirt fame) was most helpful and after a phone call and exchange of e-mails I bought what I needed. Step 1 was to remove the crank pulley as I had to machine the rear surface. To do that I needed to get the radiator, cowl and viscous fan out the way. Anybody who has a Land Rover should shake in fear at the words "viscous fan". I spent the whole of Saturday afternoon trying to unscrew it. I checked and double check on the internet. Defender 19J and 200Tdi have LH threads on the fan. Discovery 200Tdi and 300Tdi have LH threads on the fan. Range Rover 4.6 Thor engines have LH threads on the fan. You can see what's coming - however Range Rover 4.6 GEMS engines have RH threads on the fan (took a second Google search to find that!) I spent the whole of Saturday afternoon tightening it up!!!! Anyhow, it came off this afternoon and with a rattle gun on the crank bolt, it came off surprisingly easy (being nice to me I think). So the pulley had the rear machined and the toothed wheel loosely fitted, together with the sensor. I still had some of the original installation left, so I could (pretty accurately) identify the centre of the missing tooth. I then aligned the toothed wheel, marked it, removed it and fitted it in position - see pictures below: The Megasquirt 36-1 toothed wheel and again - needed to machine the rear surface of the crank pulley to give a flat area to mount it The sensor, loosley mounted In position as close as I can to the wheel to get the maximum signal and another view Finally - life Thanks for all the help and advice. We got there in the end! Cheers Peter

The existing pegs on the flywheel, whilst trashed still has the "-1" visible so I plan to align that with the sensor then do the same with the new one behind the crank pulley. That should be pretty close and the pulley I'm planning on buying has slots, so I can fine tune as needed. Cheers Peter

GEMS is a 36-1 "pegs" on the back of the flywheel (which is currently trashed and the sensor bent!) The megasquirt is a 36-1 mounted behind the front crank pulley, my concern was whether the Ford VR sensor could drive the GEMS as I'd heard the signal was too low. Cheers Peter

To sort out my Range Rover starting issues I'm looking at using a toothed wheel and Ford VR sensor on the front of the engine (as used and sold by megasquirt). I know that Hybrid from Hell is megasquirt, but he's obviously busy and hasn't responded to any e-mails or messages. Fitting is not a problem, my simple question is does anybody know the voltage output range of the Ford VR sensor (I have Googled, but it hasn't helped!) as I'd like to plug it straight into the existing GEMS that's looking for 4 - 18v (according to the Rave). Can anybody help please? Cheers Peter

The problem I normally find is that the small hole you see increases by about 400% by the time you find sound metal! Make sure the edges are clean, do a spot of weld then move on (stops too much heat and distortion) Cheers Peter

I'd be delighted to take that off your hands! How much? PM me please. Cheers Peter

I may have found the problem with my P38 non-starting - it would appear there has been damage done to the reluctor ring that I hadn't previously spotted and it appears that I have two timing points on the flywheel - if it isn't the problem. it certainly won't help! See the pictures below. Picture 1 - what the area around the bolt hole should look like Picture 2 - what mine look like; and Picture 3 - The "real" timing point! Does anybody have a spare reluctor ring, or if not a whole ring, the piece around the bolt hole that I can weld in? Cheers Peter

Will, Where are you based? Cheers Peter

Here's an update. Earths all checked out and OK. Plug leads in the correct order. Large misfires on both petrol and LPG. Pitagora boxes checked and connections cleaned and remade. O2 sensors disconnected, no change. MAF disconnected, no change. Evidence of pulses to coil pack from the GEMS ECU. So, I'm down to timing and the main contributor to that is the CKP. Whilst it appears to be working, the pulse is weak, so I'll look at that next. Cheers Peter

It is interesting that one plug "appears" much stronger than the other (of the two and only two I have tested). It may also be the way I'm testing them! I shall take them out one at a time and change them/check for spark. Cheers Peter