longlandy

As long as the flue is long enough not to cause a problem, though some areas insist on a cat converter.(smokeless areas) Even skip yards/tips are allowed to burn clean waste timber as long as the primary purpose is for heating.Ive gone in to all this ,wood burners are cool and trendy,carbon neutral etc....

Im building a wood burner for my (commercial) workshop, with a back boiler .Paying £60 a day in gas is a good incentive to go green! Also the green commision will allegedly pay 40 to 60% of the costs.

There was some on ebay a few days ago,no bids at £400 start looks really heavy and diff on wrong side

Thanks shall have a look(pirate down at mo)later, though I know how to work out spring rates etc but to save experimentation I just wondered if anyone knew a proven setup with 12" coilovers, my main concern being how much droop to set

Dont just roll over complain , legal action, trading standards.(personaly id wait outside and brake the testers legs)My mother took her disco to a halfords/aa centre(now closed) and had a similar bs ordeal, though they said it was unrepairable and needed a new loom????????? obviously it went straight through a test elsewhere.

Hi has anyone any tried values for setting up 12" coilovers regarding angles and most importantly how much axle drop to set ie with no weight and hanging on the shocks the distance between the axle and bump stops.

Pirate is almost nerdy the way they ask for weld pictures and try to be badsass and their favoured mig method looks a bit weak with the low deposit style low amps etc instead of concentrating on the weld pool. I do like the way they like to work out suspension etc instead of buying junk off the counter.

Did I see those axles on pirate getting a good flaming for using really light material? No insult intended

No no no as the above said dont drop specs from factory on wiring ever and rover didnt over do it from the start!.Think how rubbish those 16mm cheap jump leads are. 25mm min battery leads on a petrol.

The 90 needs ..got to make the fuel tank ,fit the coil overs, electrics find and fit some landcruiser axles 3link etc.Though if I cant find the axles Ill leave it rover with radius arm. The zuk is plan b, but I dont really want to go landrovering in it

Hopefully I will have my 90 finished by then.

My 25t sykes does everything I need and to be honest if your dealing with interference fits needing more than that some heat is required.Unless seals etc are present of coarse!

Wow loads of people coming out of the woodwork, think Brentwood lr died a while back now. Tort my daily driver is a little zuk, good for embarrasing rich 90 owners who haved fitted 5k worrth of bolt on junk!

There is a reason why britpart is called ****part as most of us have found out to our disapointment.In southend there is a firm called landmark who supply oe parts at fairly sensible prices.

Cant really remember, have seen on some and not on others so I aint saying nothing. What I will say is be carefull with paddocks as they seem to be selling total carp quality spares, I threw away the last order I recieved from them.

I think id interlock using oil pressure so you can only have it on with the engine running. Did they ever do a 'arctic heater' like the ones they did for series landys

Post some picks of the damage for us to see whats whats,it might just seem worse than what it actually is. Most landrovers have bad doors hidden under trim,filler etc, dont worry its part of the fun

Why not keep in touch.

Cool i'm in Essex, Billericay area, I have no friends Landrover owning or otherwise Actually i'm in the same position and the old woman can't take no more.

That is stinging cheap,almost tempted myself,though id uprate the beams and platern and make it wider. You can buy it and if its any good Ill get one ,wouldnt be able to make it for that money.

Thats exactly want I mean!

Make one would be the way forward using a s/h enerpac ram and pump off the bay or wherever you can source one. If you build it with the tonnage around the 25 30t mark you can make a useful brake attachment for brackets etc

The electrodes a reversable and the longer tips just allow better reach/visability. As Mr astro says clean dry air is vital as water in the air will destroy the torches and consumables fast, the thermodyne dragun which I had ,though sent back used a internal air compressor which had no water trap destroyed its tips electrodes very quickly.

The gears are really not a problem, its all straight forward machining operations. Keeping the gears modular helps ie on a 2 axle set you will have8 identical idlers etc.Being a prototype the internal splines can be hobbed or edm ,no need to have a broach made. Infact Ill back myself up that if you come up with a viable design ill cut you the gears!

As a commercial venture a no no,though I assume you have access to a good university workshop so machining shouldnt be a problem and if your design uses straight cut gears again a simple machining operation, though the correct heat treatment is vital and should be sent to a specialist in heat treatment. As for castings they are not that expensive in low temp alloys though casting steel is a different matter. I think most people are afraid of this sort of project due to the inability to workout loading both shock and running, gear design spec meshing depth etc etc. Do it!(I am ex drivetrain engineer, R&D by the way)