longlandy

I went for a baileigh rdb 50 for several reasons, they are the official importer and should be around for a while , it handles 2 1/2" cds and higher tensil tubes with ease,its ratchet mechanism holds the tension for 270 deg vital for stainless etc and I haggled for a good deal so it was only £300 more. The down side (though is a plus in use) is it weighs 300lb. Good luck with your project!

Go to hub le bas they have depots around the country and supply steel stockholders. They do everything tube related

thats a good point about the zuki upgrade as Im building myself one so I will try to have a deal on the LC anyway

Forgot to say I use 1 1/2 for the hoops as you can bend it to a much tighter rad.

I have 2" dies and 1 1/2" I like to do everything in 2" if posible when there is room .1 1/2 is only a tiny amount weaker though I cant remember the figs but is about £8 cheaper. Which bender do you have

Thanks, I will have a measure up on some 70 axles, as I know the whereabouts of an abandoned one.Im changing the suspension set up so fitting them will not be much extra work. I really dont like rover axles or the idea of spending a lot of money in the effort of trying to make them nearly as strong as LC ones. With regards to rovertracks I would be doing all machining in house and only sourcing halfshafts etc from keith and dana 70 lockers are cheaper than rover or 60 lockers.So the costs wont be too bad

Hello has anyone here fitted 70 series yota axles to a 90(cant find 80s at the mo) and are they as strong as the 80 series landcruiser axles, secondly I dont seem to have seen any 90s with rear salisburys on ,is there a reason for this other than the low pinion and prop angle maybe? Basicaly I want strong axles and being to poor for spidertax I thought lc 70 or 80 axles or salisburys both ends with rovertracs/rakeway mods ie dana 60 locker front with LC 80 cv etc.

Cut the gears and make something you can trust and be proud of

looks like he used electrical conduit

Ramsey winches are as good as they get,ok not really for self recovery in events ,but they last forever. Even a small one can generate huge(and damaging)forces. When I used to run low loaders I would only buy ramsey.As western pointed out a partial strip is useful as the only thing that can hurt them is running dry due to the nature of the worm and wheel having high friction under load

They are not shop keepers or enthusiasts they are engineers who are enthusiasts if that makes sence they will make you anything from a ford 9 irs unit to a transfer box with everything in between.They are THE ONLY people that I will deal with

beware of distortion and creating stress in the metal measure before during and after , remember weld can curl up 12mm plate

Throw away the td5 fit a cummins 6bt 1:1 transfer box and pull away in second uphill with a trailer

Use kam flanges, they are made in england by those skilled men at rakeway

My first pressbrake was a colly 70t, I purchased it as a non runner for £400 ,it improved my french trying to talk to the factory for parts! Im going to use a crank arrangement to contol balance almost like a overcrank mech brake and the colly, the idea being to avoid any specialised hydraulics etc overwise costs will rise and to make it so home builders could copy it on a smaller scale for 3mm or so chassis parts over 3'

I have a large press brake but this is tied up with production work.Having opened up a 4x4 workshop at another premises I have the need of another press brake on site to save a 20m journey. The reason for this post: 1 I dont want to buy one, cant find one to my specs and lastly I have a pile of 50mm plate waiting to be used so Im going to make one.The specs will be 1000kn force ,up stroke design for simple ram set(got some ex mod 400bar units)with a 2m capacity being the biggest machine I can machine. I will start a build thread if anyone finds this interesting ,if not i'll shut up!

Speak to keith at rovertracks he knows his stuff about building super strong salisburys including a front salisbury with lc80 cvs etc

There is no argueing over old makita stuff,probably the only real industrial tools still available,how long have they got,believe it or not ryobi were once high quality jap tools, hard to believe I know. But the list of tools ruined by stanley is getting long.Mac ,vicegrip,dewalt,britool,facom is still ok for now, go on the mac van it looks like QD's

I have both the snap on 3/8 and 1/2. the 1/2 is probably the best cordless impact money can buy, though somebody will disagree and say otherwise,though they can have battery woes. As for the price,ignore snap ons website,they are generaly £280 direct from the van when on offer,though my local dealer keeps that price full time.

you have me, I lied and am trying to trick people, it actually cuts like oxy propane with a buggered nozzle. I have now been reminded why you shouldnt bother with forums. I apologize for all my lies and shall log out and not bother you again

Ive owned a fab shop for 20 years, Ive owned and used many plasma cutters.The machine does cut as good as any on its rated sensible cut naturaly it cant cut 12mm as clean as my 100amp hypertherm.and isnt going to have a super duty cycle Its in the skill of the user ,id bet I could get a better cut than most using gas The question is how long will last for, both my cebora and hypertherm(3phase that why I wanted a cheap 110/240)are still good after 10+years for the china one a year would be a result

I aggree my dewalt stuff is old(cordless mainly) the new stuff really isnt pro,my heavy stuff is makita old hitachi hilti etc.Snap on make ratchets in china now. What makes me angry, they are doing this out of greed snap on are still charging top top money for western made goods so they can keep it made in the us not knock it out in china and still charge blood.

I think stanley management believe its all about branding and quality is not a issue like designer clothes,the list of quality tool manufacturers destroyed by stanley is getting quite long

I forgot those cheap one dont have hf pilot start