MrKev

Nice trucks. The pictures say 'resized to 87%' in the corner, but I get the impression they are much smaller than that! Kev

Yes, there's also a little ford at the end of a short greenlane a little down/upstream. The club, however, provides a proper jetwash for washing lights, wheels windows etc, as well as toilets and a burger van, so the Mother in Law really can't complain that you didn't take her out for lunch! Kevin

Yeah, it needs a few tweaks... Just north of Standford Dingley - try this link: http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=newbury+showground&daddr=Unknown+road&hl=en&geocode=FT4yEQMdSRfs_ykt2Eh3oqV2SDFUdiJOLEDJZw%3BFQcdEQMdfe7t_w&mra=ls&sll=51.459445,-1.243725&sspn=0.140541,0.214577&ie=UTF8&ll=51.454114,-1.242142&spn=0.070279,0.161018&z=13 Kevin

I'll probably pop in for look round - bound to but something useful. If any of you fancy a little gentle pay'n'play that day, Thames Valley 4x4 (www.tv4x4.co.uk) have a driveround day on that day, at a site which is about 15 minutes from the Showground site. Kevin

This is what I've got. The 'additional' reflectors being fitted on the bodywork still, from before the HD bumper was fitted but after I lost the plastic end caps.... I can see why an MOT man would fail the reflectors if there are supposed to be some in that light cluster! Kev IMAG0048 by MrKev, on Flickr IMAG0051 by MrKev, on Flickr

Mine (300tdi) doesn't have reflectors in the light clusters, in fact I don't recall seeing any series I disco with them there - got a picture? Disco series IIs have them in the light cluster... Kevin

Well, specifically a motor vehicle needs two (or more) rear facing red retro reflectors. Since the disco has these on the rear bumper as standard, removing said bumper will also remove said reflectors, hence the need to add two more (somewhere) to keep Mr Plod happy. Kev

Yep, totally agree. There's even a nice flat area where they could have done this. At the very least, I think they should have provided fitting instructions with it, but I was able to sus it out all by myself These fitting instructions could have then mentioned that you would be required to source reflectors etc.. Fortunately I had picked up a good handful at the Great Dorset Steam Fair last year in anticipation of this need, @ 50p each. Kev

So Dave, you don't think perhaps that people only post the most interesting pics? Kev

how about: http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/results.jsp?N=411+1003810&isGoback=false ?

Here's a few clips thrown together in iMovie from the weekend. Kev

Yes, you can, however, you'll also do well to re-enforce the 2-3mm thick bit of bumper bracket sticking out of the chassis that you're bolting it to... The majority of the force through the NATO hitch / swivel is transferred through 4x M12 bolts into a bracket wrapped round the rear chassis cross member, and via 2x M12 (in double shear) through the chassis itself, as per the tow bar bracket. The two bolts at the end really serve as to keep it on straight, and take some of the force when you use a hi-lift, for example. Kevin

Yes, though I've got a NATO on, rather than one of those swivels. It looks like this:- http://www.britpart.com/Accessory.asp?PageRef=4&AccessoryRef=2662&AccessoryVehicleRef= Kevin

Mine clears it, but not by much. I suspect it wouldn''t have done had I not changed and adjusted the door hinges a couple of months before hand. My bumper is the Britpart one incidentally, and contrary to my fears, it's actually pretty well made. The apertures for the lights were a little tight, and the holes for the mount to the original bumper mount points were something silly like 16mm, so mega sloppy, but I'm quite pleased with it. As others have said though, swivel the hitch and it'll be plenty clear. Kevin

Yep, I'm with 'em and happy with the premium - about a third of what Adrian Flux quoted. Renewal due soon, so hoping they read this thread as I've recommended a few others on here and elsewhere too. Kev

I'm coming along too - I've offered to help Marshall. I'll be down Saturday some time in the afternoon, hopefully enjoy a few beers and so on. Kev

Indeed - I have the above, and I agree with the colouring. My memory was playing tricks on me when I said it was White. PaulMc - is that the connector block in a Disco II by chance? The original post's signature claims a 1995 300tdi Discovery... Kev

Ah, ok. I think I've used 'it' too many times in this thread, and lost what the 'it' is referring to. The 'it' I was referring to is the feed from the dash fuse, 20A, white wire if I remember correctly, which appears in the space at the back near the light cluster. This is a permanent live, and originally terminated in a 1/4" receptacle. It may or may not have been used by the person who installed this 'orange box'. As you also say, assuming of course that this 'orange box' is a voltage sensing relay (sounds likely, seeing as it's got a wire labelled fridge, but could be anything I suppose) you get a choice of permanent 12V or 12V which is only active when the engine is running. If lawrence doesn't want the facility provided by a voltage sensing relay, I'd be included to suggest removing it, so as to avoid confusion for him at a later date. Kev

The 12S gets 3 power feeds: 1 permanent for lights (which may be in your horse box, toilet, caravan, or whatever you're towing) and 2 switched: one for your charging the battery in the trailer / caravan; and one for running your fridge. These switched ones are normally powered though a voltage sensing relay, so that they're only powered when the alternator is charging. As to the other question: "which of the electrical wires would you clever people sugest that I use to power the 12v socket. I guess i will need both live and netural, but which of the wires is best or does it make no real difference" I don't really know what you mean. Kev

It's a permanent live - doesn't require the engine to be running, and it's a dedicated circuit, so it will only have what you wire onto it.

It should be wired into a feed specifically installed for the job - you can check this: There's a fuse, 20A IIRC, in the dashboard fusebox which is the intended feed for the 12S socket, and it would have ended in a female 1/4" receptacle in that location, along with another one for the reversing light, which also appears on a 12S socket. This feed is a factory installed feed, so I see no problem with running circuits from it for auxillary power in the boot etc, for example: sorry I can't work out how to link that picture directly in this thread; maybe a mod can do it? Kev

Oooh. Now I'm sure we've all left a chuck key in and switched on at some point, but I wasn't quite expecting to see a lathe used in exactly that way! Given how loose the tailstock looked, I was expecting to see it land on the fellow shortly after too! I guess he was lucky there wasn't a tool in the tool holder - he'd have come up with a new definition for 'parting tool' if he had... Kev

Finally got round to trying it, and I'm quite pleased. Much better view for reversing. I used some 20thou thick 'plasticard' to neaten up the outside, and just drilled and bolted to the existimg 2mm steel. IMAG0036 by MrKev, on Flickr And it was quite easy getting a cable through for the heated mirrors too: 5482078256_ef73bdfec5_o by MrKev, on Flickr Kev

Another vote for Frank Pickles - less than half the price quoted by Adrian Flux, and I've recommended a few others who've had similar good quoted. Also my renewal is due soon, and I hope they're reading this thread Kev

Did anyone else spot the 'recovery point' on the tarantuka4x4 site: http://tarantula4x4.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=17 Hmm..