zardos

And my (Andrew Beck) co-driver has been Shaun Rutland for the last 2 events as well :-)

Gywn Lewis does a kit for that (as seen on Devon 4x4 site) linky

This tool set is no good for working on Land Rovers! I've not spotted the range of hammers needed (from standard to 14lb sledge )

I think that Lucy forgot to put in the job ad Duties to include stand in co-driver at challenge events

And I have a V8 engine that is on 220k as is running fine.

Correction 1kw is 1000 watts (your missing a zero) My 2.2Kw compressor won't run correctly off a 13Amp plug as even though the running load is about 10Amps the startup load is 16Amps (from motor plate). So it needs a special connection.

May be it was the leaf spring shackle/hanger of the front suspension that got caught?

Unfortunately it was done by a previous owner, so I don't know the thermostat value or any part numbers of the gauge. I assume that you want to keep the 200 tdi gauage? You will need to find or measure the resistance of the 200tdi sensor to see if it linear to the v8 sensor. If it is then you can use a trim resistor. Another option is you could probably get a water sensor adaptor (some like this in ebay) to fit in to your heater circuit house. And then you could put the right sensor in for your gauge.

Given those readings which was for a TD5 gauge (ECU controlled) I don't think you can match it with a trim resistor as the two sets of readings are not linear e.g. adding 2000 Ohms when at water actual water temp of 20C the numbers are 810+2000 = 2810 which is close to the TD5 20C but at 100C actual water temp the numbers are 50+2000 = 2050 which is some where between 20C and 30C (more towards the 30C at a rough estimate of 27C) But your 200tdi gauge is probably not the same as the TD5 gauge You would need the values for the 200tdi temp sender to work out if they were linear and what the value of the trim resistor would be if they were linear. The easiest way is to get a gauge to match the V8 sender (my 3.9l V8 in a 200tdi) has the correct gauge.

You could ask on http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=40 There are some very helpful compressor engineers on that forum. This probably won't apply to your compressor (but there is a chance that the cutoff switches are similar) The Manual for my Hydrovane compressor (http://www.compaircal.com/V01.pdf) on page 57 shows how to adjust the pressure switch

And the jury's verdict was?

Ok the gearbox will be a ZF4HP22EH or ZF4HP24EH As the threaded holed is near the inspection cover (the circular plate with three bolts) then it is in the bell housing, which contains the torque converter which is surrounded by air (so no possible loss of fluids from this hole). I don't think it will be the drain hole (that is there to drain any oil leaking out of the rear engine oil seal) as it is too high up the bell housing. So as John L says it might be the storage location for the wading plug (for when not blocking the drain hole when wading). I don't think that the actual wading plug comes with a Land Rover it is something you have to purchase separately, but they have provide you with a handy storage location for it if you have purchased one. So short answer is no you have not lost anything.

Watling Engineering are great, I don't have a front push towbar but them made me a custom towbar for the rear of my 90.

The only extension cable I know about is called Megasquirt

I have 2 Gigglepin GP82/83 winches and have tried my brother's delta tek drum and when properly setup there is nothing to tell them apart in operation of the freespool. As a total winch package the GP8x series of winches beat an upgraded 8274 in many areas e.g the drum end plate is much stronger on the GP8x series and it has rear tie bars making it much easier to keep everything in alignment and thus better freespool (my brother has broken a warn end plate and they are expensive) It also does not use the fiddly square nuts (which are imperial). So if you already have an 8274 then probably a delta tek drum or gigglepin equivalent (which to me looks the same as the delta tek) but if you don't then a GP8x series is better than applying all the upgrades to an 8274

For a Challenge truck there are MSA regs and it must be a minimum of 1.75l of AFFF. As for supplier I would recommend you local fire extinguisher place (look up in the Yellow Pages). They tend to be cheaper than motorsport suppliers and it is easy to get it serviced correctly. But make sure that the contents label has AFFF written on it as some only have the brand name of the contents even though they are AFFF, scrutineers like to see AFFF on the label not at brand name.

Add to your list http://www.kaylan.co.uk/ and http://www.kaylan.co.uk/gallery/show/id/1 They manufacturer plastic for rally car mudflaps.

It would help if you told everybody what type of discovery and gearbox you had. (manual or automatic - r380 or 4HP22EH, etc)

No crankshaft sensor on the earlier v8's unless you megasuirt it

Yes a faulty temp sensor is a common problem but if you got a reading on the dash when heating it, then you have the wrong sensor. The ECU Sensor is separate to sensor for the dash gauge (usually it is next to the dash sensor Have a look at http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm to see info and pic for the Temp Sensor as well as more info about ecu wiring. amr 1097 is the ABS ECU, not the engine ECU, so you are looking at the wrong ECU (see above link for what you should be looking for)

For the top connector type in the picture (which is the most common) Screwfix do them e.g. Pack of 5 1/4 BSP male PCL for £5.99 (Linky) Also in Female and the quick connectors. The second connector down is called "Universal" and screwfix do those as well.

ETC6547 Linky to pic

Of your options you have missed some. 5. Fit a V8 and optionally an LPG kit. (engines are fairly cheap) 6. Fit a newer Veg Oil burner engine (TDV6 or TDV8) that meets the emission regs.

We use http://www.optimate.co.uk/accumate%20pro%2012-24.htm for 24v (also does 12v) and it's great.

My brother has used argoshield in his air shocks for a while now, I don't know if it is normal with nitrogen but his shocks do need a little top up of gas after about a year.