zardos

Not for oil dispensing but could be applied in the same way. The pressure release valve moulding on a Cuprinol pump up fence sprayer is the perfect size to accept a 1/4" bsp male pcl screwed in to it once the release valve has been removed. The container has the max pressure rating on it, so to spray a fence I just turn the compressor air reg down to below the rated max and connect up air line. Then I have unlimited spraying capability, no manually pumping it up every 10 seconds The same principal could be used to air pump the oil.

I have seen this happen due to the Venturi effect on a breather system (air leaking in to an axle from a air locker and flowing down the breather to a manifold with other breathers and the Venturi effect sucking out the ATF out of the gearbox, note the vehicle was stationary and the axle and gearbox oil would have been cold as the vehicle had not move much for a long time). I'm note sure this was caused by pressure build up as it would be far to easy for the pressure to release and let the oil drain back down. Two possible ways this could happen, or a combination of both. 1. I'm sure it is possible to position the end of a breather in such a place that the aerodynamic effect would produce a similar suction effect, this force would be constant for the 2 hours or so of the drive. 2. Hot oil vapour was rising up the breather and was cooled back to oil in the end of the breather pipe that was in the cooling airflow.

Should stay away from the devil's fuel as diesels have a higher compression ratio making them require more battery power to turn over and need a lot of power for glowplugs. Also check the condition of and clean both battery terminals, as your jump pack will bypass this connection point. My brother's diesel had a similar problem of only starting with jump pack and that was a dodgy battery terminal connection.

You could go for a 1 (or 2 depending on how you count it) link kit on the front for better turning circle. See http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Link-Land-Rover-Suspension-kit-system-extreme-/140579999469?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20bb388eed As for increasing the wheel base you might be able to swap your chassis for a disco 1 which already has the 100 inch wheel base.

I use http://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/ but that is because they are local and you can pick up an internet order.

It all depends on the winch make and model and wiring size used On some type of winch to power out the motor has to over come some of the breaking effect of the brake, this will take more power which can slow the motor and make it draw more current. It will also cause friction heat in the winch. Some winch motors do not have identical power outputs for both directions (I believe that the warn XP motor is one of these 6hp winch in but only 2hp winch out) Also you will always tend to get heating of the cables and solenoid with most setups under higher loads. For example the Warn XP motor can draw up to 500 Amps but Warn as per most winch manufacturers they only supply around 35sqmm cable with a winch which is generally only rated for 240Amps constant load (the constant load value is usually the point where the heat generated by the current = the heat the cable can dissipate in free air) Going over the rated constant current load is possible for short periods of time as this just heats up the wire more and is ok until the wire hits the melting point of the insulation. Also Solenoids tend to have even lower rating than the wires. So to sum up, what winch do you have? and what cable size have you used? Also have you put the power cables in conduit? as this can lower the constant current rating and increase the heating affect. With this info it will be easier to judge if this heating is normal and if the speed difference is normal.

I notice that Goodrich now list the Kawler for "Competition use Only" (http://www.bfgoodrich.co.uk/bfgoodrichuk/en/tyres/4x4/20071206134144.html) Which might be them using a get out clause. So far I have found no tyre manufacturers web site giving the detailed information the tyre labeling law requires. And I think the UK has been a bit keen on implementing the EU regs as per usual, as they only start coming in to force around Nov 2012. Knowing certain EU countries are slow to legislate EU regs you might be able to buy non conforming tyres abroad still. But it seems it does not affect agri tyres, so be friendly to your local farmer

Googling sheds some light Link to directive From VCA (Vehicle Certification Authority A1 From the 23rd March 2010: Passenger tyres (class C1,ECE-R 30) with a width up to and including 185mm, Small commercial tyres (class C2 ECE-R 54) with single load index up to and including 121 and Speed Symbol N and over, Commercial tyres (class C3 ECE-R 54) with single load index 122 and over or single load index below 122 and Speed Symbol M and below, From the 1st October 2010: Passenger tyres (class C1 ECE-R 30) with a width up to and including 215mm, From the 1st October 2011: Passenger tyres (class C1 ECE-R 30) with a width greater than 215mm So depends how big your tyres are A2 Yes only new tires as it is a type approval reg A3 May be but there do seem to be some exceptions and it all depends on if the mostly US specialist tyre manufacturer can be bothered doing the testing and getting them below about 80dBa measured 7.5m away. A4 Seem to be only for Road tyres, tyres marked for off road only might not need comply. A5 Not retrospective see A1

A little more info would go a long way to help you. Are you running MegaJolt, MegaSquirt 1 or MS 2 ? What version and what mods, etc? What Engine type 3.9, serp or non serp, 4.0, 4.2 ,... ? I assume you are running MS2 to run the standard RV stepper motor idle valve or possibly using an external circuit to convert it from the PWM valve that MS1 can drive?

OK, think I've got it. I hope for dry then

Yes, newsletter has arrived and the postcode given is in the middle of a housing estate :-(

Hmm not sure the helicopter has the power to lift my landy out of the mud over obstacles And rather more expensive to buy and maintain than a winch.

I thought of a 2 drum / capstan + drum as well with sprung tensioner to adjust the storage drum speed i.e line goes tight and straighter, the movement of sprung tensioner slows second drum speed or line goes slack and the sprung tension wheel takes up slack and it's movement speeds up motor This would also take in to account that the second drum's rope intake will speed up as it stores more layers of rope. As there is little/no tension on the storage drum then not auto laying won't be problem.

I don't think it does auto line laying, it might have gears (I thought 2 speed) but not automatic gears No line out distance reading Most winches meet some of these criteria but not all. For gearing/speed I though the following would be ideal Where Ground speed < wheel speed (i.e. low traction) then increase torque to try and increase ground speed up to wheel speed Where Ground speed = wheel speed (i.e. good traction) then winch line speed = ground speed Where Ground speed > wheel speed (i.e sliding down a hill) apply the brakes

My Fantasy winch Twin motor Big/Wide drum 38m of 12mm rope Air freespool Automatic 3 speed gears (with manual override) 1. Standard 2. I'm very stuck in the mud (2:1 or 3:1 reduction) 3. Very fast for line retraction (2:1 or 3:1 increase) - or auto geared to keep a minimum load on the rope Auto line laying on drum under low tension (just enough to prevent rope cutting in to previous layer) even when there is no load Smooth braking Motor load/torque + temp and line out distance readings and alarms Small form factor for very little reduction in approach/departure angles and extra weight Silent operation and costs less than £100

As a competitor I've not seen the address for the Mud Monsters site either.

Check this thread out A pic from the thread or I've also seen one where a series 3 I think had everything in front of the bulkhead chopped off and drawbar added to make a enclose trailer/caravan.

Nope Some black saloon towing a similar car that looks like a track car on a large trailer. Must have been breaking the 75% guideline and thus easy for the tail to wag the dog.

Alternative look at http://www.velleman.eu/distributor/products/view/?id=374290 for a ding-done sounded twice Or there is a door bell that allows you to download your own sounds to.

You could uses a standard buzzer e.g. http://www.maplin.co.uk/miniature-buzzer-3213?ordercode=FL40T and then add a universal timer to shut the buzzer up after a set time e.g. http://www.maplin.co.uk/universal-timer-kit-3315

Nothing beats a bit of weight when towing don't even notice 3.5 tons of car and trailer behind the 16 tons of coach But only gets 9mpg (but it is equivalent to 18mpg of 2 vans and trailers it replaced)

And if you want better CV's (Ok much more expensive) Ashcrofts are not too far away from Uxbridge.

You could try some searching on a belt manufacturers web site like Dayco Their part numbers have length encoded in them e.g a 7pk2250 is 7 v's wide and 2250mm in length or you could try contacting them linky a quick search gives a 7pk at 2875mm is the biggest I've found

Yes it does, just many pages down See page 20 of http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_forms/bluebooks/11/152-190%20Competitor%20Safety.pdf Minimum quantity of extinguishant (3) Reference Description AFFF ZERO 2000 3.1.1 Small, hand-operated 1.75 litres N/A 3.1.2(a) Medium, plumbed-in, for discharge into both cockpit 2.25 litres 2.25 litres and engine compartment 3.1.2(b) Medium, hand-operated, for discharge into both cockpit 1.75 litres N/A and engine compartment 3.1.3 Large, plumbed-in, for discharge into both cockpit and engine 2.25 litres 2.25 litres compartment 3.1.4 (plumbed) Large, plumbed-in, for discharge into engine compartment 2.25 litres 2.25 litres 3.1.4 (hand-held) Medium, hand-held for Driver or Rally Co-Driver use 1.75 litres N/A 3.1.5 Hand-operated for cockpit (International) 2.4 litres N/A My local fire place charges about £20 to buy a 1.75l AFFF with free inspection and £15 for a recharge.

MSA requires a minimum of 1.75l AFFF for motorsport vehicles. Get one from your local fire extinguisher place not Halfords, that way you can have it regularly serviced and inspected.