Maverik

Intresting, from the look of it there is no intercooler though...

http://www.communities.gov.uk/news/corporate/1529556 Reading the news above link, doens't look like it will allow us all to have free topographical maps - i got my hopes up for a minuet there...

Check out the bells and whistles... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-Defender-110-CAMEL-TROPHY-1984-FULL-ORIGINAL_W0QQitemZ250607263103QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutomobiles_UK?hash=item3a595b5d7f

Do you have pictures? that sounds quite "unique"

Bah, it is - for your average jo - 100k, rattly engine. I just found this website that describes turbine operation/control quite well. http://www.turbodriven.com/en/turbofacts/designControlSystem.aspx

Ok I've just thought about this and i came to the conclusion: All 4 stroke engines (not considering a turbo just now) need to expel exhaust gas, to make it the most efficient process, the engine doesn't want to have to work to expel that gas - which is directly related to back pressure of the exhaust system, ideally you want no back pressure or even a little bit of negative pressure, allowing the exhaust gas to exit the cylinder with least effort. Now most Diesel now have a turbo fixed on the outlet of the exhaust system. for the hot side (turbine) of the turbo to spin up it needs a specific pressure difference across the hot side inlet and outlet. Now if you made the exhaust longer (effect of increasing the back pressure) then if the turbo was started by the pressure drop across the hot side it would need more pressure on the inlet, meaning the engine would have to work to pump it up. Not what you want, if you shortened the pipe (reduce back pressure) then the turbo would spin up with less inlet pressure from the cylinder exhaust. thats if the turbo was controlled by the pressure across its outlet, I have to check how Auto ones are controlled. So... shortening your exhaust wont do it any harm.

Whats the main driver for having a side exhaust? to get it out the way for better axle articulation? - or you like the noise? I seem to be doing everything possible to make mine quieter...? Dont quote me but, you have to bare in mind that engines are designed with a certain back pressure, changing the exhaust config too much could change somthing so its noticable?

If you want ultimate value then go with Sketchup, its an extremly powerfull tool for free software. I have been using it for drawing engineering models for a few years now. For small personnal fabrication drawings and concept design its quick and easy to use. I drew this prop to scale the other day to supply some drawings to get it modified

ahh so you're well practiced

Check this out, its quite intresting: http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_630.htm Also you have to admit that your average joe won't be wanting to replace/get new "VIN" tags, the website in question is quite clearly targeting the restoration/collectables market. Meaning there probably isn't a proper procedure in place by the DVLA to get new VIN tags specially for older vehicles because not enough people need to get them. It could have slipped through the net? If you wanted to get new Reg plates, and you where determined, you could get them done on the sly not needing any proof of vehicle ownership. With the case of land rovers its a lot of effort to change your chassis/body VIN tags, and get an Illegal V5 certificate to do what? you usually want it with an MOT too, In which case that will mean the serial number would have been though the DVLA proving its legitimacy...?

The plates have no relation to the V5, only in the affect that your "unique" vehicle VIN number is stamped in them. The actual design of the plate is not a stipulation of the DVLA. You are not buying number/information, you're buying a bit of aluminium with some paint on it. A V5 is a paper certificate. These are just Identification plates of verious shapes and sizes, used to record usefull information about your vehicle. Hence if you loose your vin "plate" its not a problem to replace as the vin will be hard stamped to a usually large immovable part like the chassis.

yup, pukka. They're not selling V5's, they're just selling the tags/plates, sometimes they corrode/fall off. Also good suplier for military plates that sometimes are removed when they become civilianised.

Is it worth me spending £70 on a OEM water pump or go for AN OTHER for £35? Who makes reliable water pumps?

the spare wheel is a bit random, its different to all the others.

4.7 is quite a difference to 3.54 and I'm guessing you'd really notice that difference... i.e. your rear axle trying to overtake the front one... hmm Unfortunatly I haven't had a much driving experience in my 90 as I took it off the road shortly after i got it, but is it usual to feel them crabbing?

I'm re-spraying the whole lot inside and out, any advances on paint colour being JCP Stratos Blue, Tasmin Blue 82-87 LRC.327 ?? How many litres of paint will I be looking at to do the whole vehicle, assuming it will need 2 coats? Cheers

Thats what I always thought... I asked the questions as I found my transfer/gear box was getting pretty darn hot (before I took it all apsrt that was) I did wonder if it was a diff ratio problem but now I've sorted that I will put it down to the problem being the rear prop was originally to long also the one of the UJ's on the front had totally siezed. Have u decided on what prop you're going to use on it yet? also have u got a disc Salisbury or drum? After a previous thread I've decided to go with a 300tdi front prop (for the rear), I'm just trying to source one of adequate qulaity/price.

Silly question I know but I'll ask it anyway: so for every 3.54 rotations of the diff input shaft you get 1 revolutions of the output shafts (i.e. both output shafts turning the same speed with no slip)? So according to the above statment, having a Salisbury rear axle shouldn't be any trouble being driven with a normal Rover axle on the front. Is there another reason why more than one person has said to me don't put a 110 Salisbury rear axle on a 90? Cheers.

I'm trying to work out what diff ratio's my 90 has, its far from Standard having a Salisbury rear axle and an early type (narrow radius arm) front axle. Do Salisbury diffs have a different ratio to standard 90 rover diffs? what are the range of Diff ratio's that are on offer for the defender axle? Also where/how do I find out what ratio my diffs are?? is it stamped somwhere? Cheers Mav

It was probably diesel vapours being pushed out the tank by an over zelous fuel filler speed. if your tank was empty and the fuel is sloshing about it will mist up a bit. As the air in the tank is being replaced by fuel it gets pushed out the filler pipe. I have noticed it sometimes when you get a filler nozzle without a splash guard on, or the heat from you bum (being sat on the tank) casued the tank to heat up and vapourise the remaining fuel in it. or could be water vapour condensing in the air due to bizzre climatic change?

I think it was on here, some chap, took the internals out of one and transplanted them across just fine.

aye, got those documnets and trying to blend them into a more usuable form. Funnely enough I've found ebay the best place for getting prop lengths, most sellers are willing to go measure them.

Cheers for that, I've been putting a spread sheet together of verious prop lengths, I'll try revise it and put it on here.

I've got a salisbury on my 90 200tdi with LT77 and struggling with prop lengths too, presently I have a FRC7738 4 cylinder petrol/diesel shaft, its 640 commpressed and 690 extended, the gap between rear dif and transfer box is averge of 640mm. I was looking at getting one made up, with operating range from Min 610mm to 670mm, the old propshaft clinic (now changed hands) quoted me 125 squid using hardy spicer HD greesable UJ's and wide angle yokes. Still looking for a production prop though. Aragon is 610mm that you stated the min length?

How much of a re-build did you do? you pull the pistons etc? whats the availability of bearings/seals e.e re-build parts? how much has it cost you?