Maverik

Yeah when I say aft of the lift pump I mean geographicaly as it where on the vehicle. Also a good point about the olive, i did re-fit the old one back on, it looked serviceable - but it had the problem before I fitted the new pump. Will drain the tank too for good measure to see if there's any water in there.

Try speaking to Andrew at AW Transmissions (google it) as an alternative to Ashcrofts. He just built me a short bell R380 and 1.410 tansfer box. really good service. Mav

Yeah, If it is just air being drawn into the system then somewhere aft of the lift pump I think will provide the solution. Next job is to have a look at the feed pipe back from the lift pump and into the tank. I'll heed your advice about the cavalry, still got a few avenues to explore Mav

Hello, I've got a Disco 200Tdi in my Defender, It sounds like exactly the same symptoms. What I have done is changed the lift pump out, now this sorted the surging, but it still doesn;t have any power whenever you throttle it. I'm still working on bleeding the system as I belive its still got air in it - I got a lot of feedback from people saying it sounds like the system is drawing in air somewhere. As there are 2 pumps in the system ther are only a few key areas that air can be drawm into the system, namly the suction sides of the pumps. My next thing to check will be the lines from the tank to the lift pump, like LandyManLuke has said take the suction line off the lift pump and feed the lift pump from a external diesel source, I intend to do the same to the injection pump if If it still miss behaves. Unfortunatly I'm away at the moment so can't work on it my rig, but I've just bought the Haynes manual for the Dico 1 to see if I can get to the bottom of the problem Note: with regard to bleeding the fuel system, Haynes Discovery says start the engine with the throttle fully depressed, I've not tried this yet - might help if you get round to tinkering with the fuel system and need to re-bleed. I'll let you know if I manage to get any further with mine. Mav

sorry maybe I was unclear. there was no spacer on the pump I took off the engine. I found this a bit odd, but replaced like for like. Not able to work on it for a week or two so further exploration will have to wait now. Is it worth geting a Mobile Diesel specialist to come look see and see if he can diagnose it?

Hey Matt, appreciate the assistance, keep the idea's comeing. Ok, went out just now and did some bleeding... I started her up and cracked open the fuel filter bleed - bit of air, then cracked the fuel return on the injection pump, (as per haynes manual advice) - did it before reading your post, will go crack the feed line too later. Then did all 4 injector unions too. I did this while the engine was running, now I can't see a reason why this is a problem rather then just turning the engine over? am I wrong? this is due to not getting it to just turn over as it wants to start pretty much straight away, do you mean remvoing the glow plugs? Could a nackered fuel filter be a problem...? ok, thinking out loud: Just thinking of what parts are pressureised and what is suction, tank to lift pump is suction so in theory air can be drawn in there, from lift pump to filter is pressurised, then filter to injection pump is pressurised,, due to the hight differnce between the lift pump filter and injection pump you might get some head loss causing a slight vacum at the filter, but thats pretty unlikely, anyone know the lift pump supply pressure by any chance? I'm guessing the lift pump supplies an excess of fuel to the injection pump due to the injection pump having an excess fuel return line... so possibly the injector pump could be drawing in air as that will be taking suction from the supply lift pump - i presume there is a resovoir type affair in the injection pump. So any lines going away from the injection pump in theory dont have to be so tight as you'll just get fuel leaking out the system - less fuel to the combustion chamber. Perhaps i'm looking at the wrong end, an observation i made the other day it lookes like the fuel tank may have be replaced recently too.. could my tank suction line be drawing in air somwhere... cheers mav

Hmm, ok, I will have another go at bleeding the system, the power did noticably drop when I installed the pump. Whats the best way to bleed the injection pump and injection lines? Now with regard to the lift pump. The one that was on didnt have a spacer at all... I thought this odd as I hadn't seen an engine without a spacer fitted. anyway, the replacment pump was identical in dimentions, i.e. the length of the pump cam arm etc was all identical i was sure to check this as i was suprised not to find a spacer. Also pretty confidant the new pump is functioning properly. With regard to the turbo, is there any way I can test to see if its functioning properly while running? Mav

only unlikely if its a standard vehicle thats not been modified at all. I've got a 90 with a Salisbury, The diff is much bigger than a standard axle and almost boxy in how it looks. If you're in doubt, do a google picture search for Salisbury axle, then go compare it to what you have. mav

Thanks guys, glad we got that thrashed out, I got some parts for the cluch with the new box so I'll check off ahscrofts list of what I've got and make up the rest. Some good answers thanks. Feel free to help with my latest thread, its more fundimental engine this time. Mav

Hi again, 84Reg 90 with retro disco 200Tdi: Ok devloped this problem a while back, but only able to start fix now. Symptoms started out as, engine was surging, it couldn't keep constant revs. then it started to lose power when you throttled it. The lower the revs the less lumpy the tick over. It was very difficult to drive as it kept surging. Its starts fine, usual bit of blue smoke. No oil in water, or bubles etc, with the oil cap off, no pressure or vapour smoke coming out. Checked intercooler, dry as a bone. Turbo dump valve, fine All large bore hoses, fine - no colapses. Drianed some water from the fuel filter. Thought could be lift pump, just changed it out, now no power at all now, when you depress the throttle it just goes flat. Now seems to be puffing out blue smoke when you do this. can barely get it into 2nd gear. Have just also noticed that the oil level is down a bit. Am i looking at a head gasket here or piston rings?? I did notice this (pic attached) this is the exhast side of the turbo (not had vehicle long) - previous owner had just had a new turbo put on as it evidently it had "gone". This could be a sealent used on the exhasut outlet but not sure, anyone got any idea's? I'm at a bit of a loose end now, not really sure what to do. anyone want to swap it for one that works... I'm ithcing to drive it as not really had the chance it broke... got galvanised chassis, lots of armour, winch... at least its not rusting while it sat on my driveway. Mav

Hey up chaps, Right after many hours, managed to get it going late last night. It appears that ignition circuit has now 2 fuse's in series, one was tucked away behind the dash panel, the other was in the fuse box on the bulkhead... ok now got a new problem. The battery is fine, but I put the ignition on, turn the key to kick the starter motor over and I just get a click. Headlights dim when I do this so the circuit is drawing current. Sometimes if you wait a bit, then try again, it then starts up no problem. - turn it off, try it again, you just get a click. The Haynes says its most likely a problem with the starter motor itself... any idea's? Mav

The only fusebox I'm aware of is the one in the cab infront of the gear stick on the bulkhead below the dash. Whats a Mega fuses? forgive my ignorance. I did woner if I've got some more soewhere else. I'll go have another look.

84reg 90 with transplanted Disco 200Tdi Ok the lesson I have learnt today is:- take the negative off the battery before playing with spanners under the bonnet. I've just managed to short out the main +ve feed on the starter motor to a near by copper brake line, now I've got no power in the vehicle at all... Fusebox is a bit of a mess, due to previous owner "intervaention" any pointers at to which fuses in what part of the circuit to look for? I've got the HAYNES book open looking at the wiring diagram for engine models up to 1986, i'm guessing its using the old loom and wireing. Worying thing is I've found a few too many 13 and 15 amp household fuses than I would like to expect. I'm feeling the start of a steep learning curve coming on... cheers mav

Fitting a R380 Shorty to a Transplanted 200 Disco in my 90. I'm just looking at the Clutch release mechanism, for the R380, from people's previous experience are there any parts that are interchangeable between R380 and LT77 units? or have I got to find a whole new linkage? - anyone got any bits they don't want? Cheers Mav

59 000 miles = 94 951.296 kilometres

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14972 - Tech archive, somone explains how to lock it up down the page.

I just got me one for the princely sum of 750 squids, and the kind Gent (all be it not Mr ashcroftt) - even knocked 100 off because i was buying it outright, combined with a shiny new 1.410 cross drilled trans box! All i've got to do is come up with a ingenuitive way of fitting them with merely a few pipe cleaners and some toilet roll tubes...

I know this feeling well! I was new to this this world not 2 months ago, my truck has got disc fronts and drum rears, what I found was the rear drum adjuster-snail cams where backed right off thus there was a lot of "slack" in the system so the brakes only worked right at the bottom of the travel on the pedel. Mav

hey up, I'd agree with jcwcooper, it depends on your confidance. I have looked into both options as you, - I live in Aberdeen and its a fair way to my nearest fitter of most things and I'm using my Landy for an excuse to do/learn all the skills I've not managed to do otherwise. I'm not a welder but I intend on welding one up myself, if you've got a bit of a clue of how to weld (books & internet) and know some of the pit falls and things to avoid and you've got a fairly steady hand then go for it yourself. I do a lot of steel/weld inspection in my day to day work and you would have to weld it very very badly indeed to compramise the integrity of the structure, with welding you inherently have a lot of built in contingancy. Good luck whichever way you choose. Mav

hehehe, cheers nicks90, I'll have a look at that... , due to it having a Salisbury rear and its jacket up 3 inch, (as bought) I'm still trying to work out what bits its running with at the moment, so I don't know what the typical "tolerance" you need on the slip splines on the prop - if you get my drift. not had chance to crawl under any others to have a look at what a standard setup looks like.

I'm trying to work out what rear prop shaft works on a "Standard" suspension set-up LR90 with a rear Salisbury axel, with standard drum hand break and LT230 with either LT77 or R380 gear box. I want to avoid the custom made route so looking for Standard LR parts here if possible - so now looking at the tried and tested "what have other people done" route. - anyone? cheers

I've got an arrangement as above on my 90, its the bain of my life and will be changed shortly. It draws diesel fumes into the cab and rattles like buggery (ill fitting - not by me I might add) Something to maybe bear in mind, a mechanic friend who's had a lot of MOT experience etc, commented that it was illegal having it like this, as its to high and sticks out onto the street side of the road with potential to give people a bit of a smokey shock if you start it up when someone is walking past. not sure how true this is, but something to bare in mind maybe. My 90's got 3" lift with 285,75 Grizzlies on, puts the exhaust about window level of a small/average car... I smoked a couple of ladies out there toyota Yaris the other day, didn't relies they had a window open!! luckily they where very open minded and laughed it off.... Hmmm... but that shiny bit of stainless does look rather good... Mav

Is it in here? check these -

If you're interested, I plugged achrofts formula (lots of good info on there) into an excel sheet, as i'm upgrading my gear box and trans box too, spread sheet gives you a relative speed per 1000rpm for each gear (1-5) for the different ratio transfer boxes that are available. PM me and I'll email it you. I presently run a 1.667 with a LT77 on a 200TDi with 265/75/R16's, which is very "torquey" at reduced speeds (below 45) but pants anything above it. From advice and my own deductions and I presume why this is the "standard" box?, I think 1.410 will give you a good compromise of offroad usability and general cruising, still not quite decided myself though. My 90 is destined for the desert so swaying to the 1.410 ratio I think... If you're going to be doing a lot of tarmac and less offroad/towing, I'd defiantly go for a 1.222.

Do you mean these (link below) or do you mean part of the shock assembly itself? http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Chassis/Rear%5FAxle%5FShock%5FAbsorber%5FBracket%5F%2D%5FPair.html